Cutting counter tops

[Gordon Maney]

I am looking at my kitchen counter top. It is a typical one with integral back splash. The entire assembly runs three walls and a peninsula.

I am thinking of cutting it in two places to make a range opening wider. If it was just a piece of stock across two sawhorses it would be simple. Is there any neat way to do this with the counter in place, and do a proper job on the back splash?

[MoparFreak69]

A Dremel Multi Max would do that job nicely. My dad has one and we used it while restoring my boss's '37 Thompson mahogany boat. We had to replace part of some of the slats and wanted to cut out only the rotten slat and not damage the surrounding ones. It worked pretty good. You will probably go through quite a few blades for it, and its a bit noisy, but the cuts are nice and clean and it doesnt splinter out like a normal blade does on that kind of material. Might check it out, could be just the ticket for the task you are wanting to do.

[Clint Dixon]

I am looking at my kitchen counter top. It is a typical one with integral back splash. The entire assembly runs three walls and a peninsula.

I am thinking of cutting it in two places to make a range opening wider. If it was just a piece of stock across two sawhorses it would be simple. Is there any neat way to do this with the counter in place, and do a proper job on the back splash?

Reading your post from 2:30 this afternoon:

I just ruined another pair of jeans. They were good, too. The chaps didn't do me any good.

They were in the basement....

I hope you were not trying to use your chainsaw to cut the counter top. Stay safe Gordon.

[Gordon Maney]

Reading your post from 2:30 this afternoon:



I hope you were not trying to use your chainsaw to cut the counter top. Stay safe Gordon.

No, I was not. I have been thinking a person might be able to use one of those 16 in. Makita circular saws, and lay material on the counter top to increase the thickness until it is flush with the top of the back splash. You would have to cut a hole in the wall so the saw could extend into that space far enough to cut the back splash.

[Cheyenne Dave]

You are cutting a Formica-type product applied to a particle board substrate, as I recall. A circular saw will chip the laminate if you cut it from the face, due to the rotation of the blade. Would it be just too much trouble to remove the two sections of counter and cut them from the back with a circular saw?

You will need to install new end caps to the new cut edges, to finish the job properly. Having the counters sitting on saw horses will make that process go easier as well.

If you are dead-set in cutting them in place, clamp a piece of 1x over the cut zone and cut through that and the counter at the same time. You can attach a saw fence to the 1x to aid in obtaining a dead-straight cut. Run the saw until the shoe stops at the back splash and let the blade come to a stop before removing the saw.

Apply a good quality masking tape over the remaining intended cut and redraw your cut-line on the tape. Finish the cut with a fine tooth hand saw, which cuts only on the down-stroke. This last part is tricky, which is why I would remove the counters and cut them from the back.

Do not use a chain saw...


C.D.

[Gordon Maney]

Each of the two sections of counter are connected to other sections of counter joining at a 90 degree angle. I believe those joints are glued. There would be no good way to do that, I don't believe.

[Ron in Indiana]

How much are you cutting off each side? I'm assuming the counter top overhangs the cabinet below? If you have a good jig saw you can use a down cutting blade which will prevent chipping the top. As Dave said apply a good masking tape to the cut line and mark it. A straight edge will help make a good line. I also go along with using a multi tool for finishing the cut at the back splash. I love my Fein Multi Master but it's not cheap. Perhaps you can rent one or borrow one? A belt sander to clean up the cut before applying an end cap will be helpful as well. And you will need and end cap to keep the end from swelling over time due to moisture. They have them now that can be applied with heat vs contact cement.

[Cheyenne Dave]

Each of the two sections of counter are connected to other sections of counter joining at a 90 degree angle. I believe those joints are glued. There would be no good way to do that, I don't believe.

It is very likely, if you look at the underside of the counter, that the mitered corners are clamped, not glued.

C.D.

[Gordon Maney]

They are clamped. I saw them assembled. I think I remember them being glued. Does that seem wrong?

[Ron in Indiana]

The miters should be both glued and clamped to hold them tight. Do not attempt to break the joint apart.

[Cheyenne Dave]

They are clamped. I saw them assembled. I think I remember them being glued. Does that seem wrong?

Ron is correct..they SHOULD be glued. If you cannot see the glue has squeezed out the bottom of the joint, they are not.

C.D.

[gyman98]

Only way to cut them from the top and in place is use a circular saw with a triple chip or melamine blade, finish the back splash with a metal blade in a recip saw. Use a utility knife to score the line first and mask over the line with tape before the recip saw. After your done dress the edge with a file to avoid chipping.

[The Other Ross]

No, I was not. I have been thinking a person might be able to use one of those 16 in. Makita circular saws, and lay material on the counter top to increase the thickness until it is flush with the top of the back splash. You would have to cut a hole in the wall so the saw could extend into that space far enough to cut the back splash.

I have one of those saws,bought it 15 years ago for a loghome job.Havn't used it since,a $700.00 P.O.S. but I keep it around for jobs my 1951 10" Skil geardrive can't get in one pass.It's amazing how easy it is to build new countertops after you build the first one.

[Warren Watt]

How about using a tool like the.....

Fein multi-master? It is made for intricate cutting jobs like that. We have one at work. Good for cutting wood or light gauge metal in tight spots....kinda expensive but worth it I think....