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  • #16
    Gordon,

    Those saws make no sparks but lots of chips...they also do not last long on steel.

    You can take a regular carbide blade and cut aluminum or other non-ferrous in a chopsaw made for wood mitering - we did it every day at work for several years before buying a saw that was specifically designed for the task of cutting aluminum extrusions. There are also cold saws, which use a large carbide blade, lots of oil and relatively slow blade speeds. Most are power feed, some can be manually fed into the work. In almost every case, the material should be well clamped to prevent grabbing - a very dangerous thing that can severely injure the operator.

    I have done ornamental ironwork for almost 25 years and own a 14" chop saw, a 7x12 wet/dry combo bandsaw and a couple of shears that I use for cutting stock (I'm not counting the torch and plasma). The chopsaw sees more action that almost anything else for stock smaller than 3/4" or metal studs. The band saw gets used on big stuff and the shears on sheet metal.

    The decision on what to buy rests with what you primarily intend to cut.

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    • #17
      HW and Gordon,
      I'm jumping in here late, but here goes. For 40 years I used bandsaws, carberundum bladed chop saws and water/oil cooled cut-off saws. I've junked them all for the DeWalt Multi-Cutter Saw. Carbide blade, cuts up to 1/2" stainless (there are 3 blade options) and cuts true and smooth. No sparks, faster than a band saw, just as accurate and easier to move around.
      http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...?productID=159
      It would be my choice.
      A word of caution about putting a carbide blade into a regular cut-off saw, DO NOT DO THAT! The rpms of a miter saw and the arbors are NOT compatible with the low rpm carbide blade, serious injury or death could result in trying that. Death is permanent and I still want to continue to receive my PWA.....
      MN
      Last edited by MoparNorm; 07-11-2006, 07:12 PM.

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      • #18
        MN,

        How loud is it? We have a large industrial Dewalt radial saw at work that looks like an upscale version of the Multi-Cutter but it's so noisy the operator has to wear ear protection (which is a good idea anyway, but I was just curious).

        An advantage to the carbide blades is that most can be resharpened several times by a shop specializing in that type of work.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by MoparNorm
          HW and Gordon,
          I'm jumping in here late, but here goes. For 40 years I used bandsaws, carberundum bladed chop saws and water/oil cooled cut-off saws. I've junked them all for the DeWalt Multi-Cutter Saw. Carbide blade, cuts up to 1/2" stainless (there are 3 blade options) and cuts true and smooth. No sparks, faster than a band saw, just as accurate and easier to move around.
          http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...?productID=159
          It would be my choice.
          A word of caution about putting a carbide blade into a regular cut-off saw, DO NOT DO THAT! The rpms of a miter saw and the arbors are NOT compatible with the low rpm carbide blade, serious injury or death could result in trying that. Death is permanent and I still want to continue to receive my PWA.....
          MN
          What are the blade options?
          Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


          Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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          • #20
            I usually try not to use carbide grinding wheels inside as the carbide grit goes everywhere. The grit can do a lot of damage if it gets into the wrong places.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Sickcall
              I usually try not to use carbide grinding wheels inside as the carbide grit goes everywhere. The grit can do a lot of damage if it gets into the wrong places.
              Carbide blades are one piece steel blades, I believe that you are thinking of carberundum or abrasive blades, the glue/grit combo, that is not what this saw uses.

              HW, it IS pretty loud, but not as loud as a carberundum cut-off saw.

              Gordon, curiously the website does not show the blades, which are shown in their paper catalog. There is a 70 tooth general use blade, a stainless steel cutting blade and a thin metal cutting blade that reduces warping and heat build up when cutting thin metals.
              MN

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              • #22
                Some interesting comparison information on these two kinds of saws.

                http://www.berlandtools.com/resource...l_article.html
                Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


                Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Gordon Maney
                  Some interesting comparison information on these two kinds of saws.

                  http://www.berlandtools.com/resource...l_article.html
                  Very interesting information. Consider my earlier advice "Old School". I'd rather use one of those dry cut saws!

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                  • #24

                    I just happened to notice that my saw, the DeWalt, was rated number one!
                    MN
                    Last edited by MoparNorm; 07-15-2006, 02:30 PM.

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