Cutting sub-floor flush to finished wall

[Gordon Maney]

Here is the flat blocking. I am cutting the pieces outside....

[Sickcall]

Gordon, you appear to be moving along very swiftly, but I think it's time to mow the grass.

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon, you appear to be moving along very swiftly, but I think it's time to mow the grass.

Others have made similar remarks on occasion....

[MoparNorm]

Here is the flat blocking. I am cutting the pieces outside....

That work looks excellent! How's that DeWalt working out for you?

[Hawk]

What do you need to do?

I have floor seperation. When they added to the house, to make a room, they did not tie it into the roof correctly. Hence the floor is pulling apart. I have to remove the floor and pull it back together then tie it with plates or simular to keep it from pulling any further.

Last quote from a contractor was over the value of the house. But in my reseearch I have found it can be done for about 10 to 20 thousand by myself.

Pictures to come later to help explane

Oh and Gordon break out that mower (enves you for the nice green grass ours here is all burnt and brown due to lack of rain)

[Gordon Maney]

That work looks excellent! How's that DeWalt working out for you?

I like the saw, it is great. I got an optional laser kit, a two line laser, and put it on yesterday. Actually, that is the first time I used any of this, embarrassed to say, as I have had it for nearly two years.

It has to be adjusted after installation, and I did that. I am pretty close, but not quite right yet. It is not clear to me that the distance between the double lines can be changed, so..... if you have blades with different kerf widths, you would be in trouble to use both lines — either side of the blade — accurately.

I grew up with tool steel circular saw blades, as I suppose you did. Most of my 12 in. table saw blades are tool steel, and I do have two carbides. This saw, of course, as a carbide blade, and it is astounding to me, given my history, what a beautiful cut finish it makes. That with the standard blade. I also bought a trim blade, much finer.

As an aside, my 12 in. saw has a 5/8 in. arbor. I can get bushings to reduce from a 1 in. bore to a 5/8 in. arbor, but I prefer blades with the right size hole. Do you know of any source for such a thing? My internet searches do not yield any solution. The saw is a Craftsman, but I don't think they are in the blade business like they once were.

[MoparNorm]

Try searching at "Freud", they make very good blades and may have the size you need.
http://www.freudtools.com/

[Gordon Maney]

Try searching at "Freud", they make very good blades and may have the size you need.
http://www.freudtools.com/

I checked with them, sent them an email, and the reply was that they did not. I have to use bushings and blades with 1 in. bores.

[Gordon Maney]

Here are two more shots of the progress. I have to stop now as I have to do an issue....

One shows blocking across a doorway. I used 2x6 stock for all the blocking. In that case I screwed through the old sub-floor that is visible. Access from underneath allowed me to screw into the bottom plate of the walls that are on either side of the doorway.

[Juan]

It´s always amazing how different is your construction style than ours down here.
From what I see on you pictures your home even beeing built in 19th century is all wood construction, am I right? Today is call dry construction down here.

We use wet construction primarily down here. My house is built with bricks and mortar like almost all houses. It was built originally in the fifties and a 1st floor with rooms were added in the eighties.

My new neighbor is American, he works for a Church and he moved with all his family, including parents. They bought the house and added a new wing.
To my surprise first thing they did was build the roof!! Then they did the walls with drywall. Amazing, construction times are a lot faster.

[MoparNorm]

Yep! We always put the roof on first! It protects the rest of the building from bad weather and gets you out of the sun....= )
I'm in CA, and we don't use very much brick and mortar, it's very unsafe in Earthquakes. Our framed buildings can survive a 8.0 earthquake with very little damage.
We do build some buildings with reinforced masonry, but for anything larger than 15,000 sq.ft. it is not cost effective, then we use steel or concrete.
In the eastern US they do use a lot of brick, it's a good looking building product but hard to reinforce and insulate economically.

[MoparNorm]

With block, you have to put the roof on second....= )

[Juan]

Of course in Quake land we use a different kind of construction here too.

Just amazed with that type of construction, Doesn´t it require more maintenance? Like painting to keep rain out? or the roofing ?

[Gordon Maney]

Of course in Quake land we use a different kind of construction here too.

Just amazed with that type of construction, Doesn´t it require more maintenance? Like painting to keep rain out? or the roofing ?

I would love to have a masonry house with a tile roof, but I could not afford it. In many places over long history, masonry was used because there were no other good materials.

What we seem to do is build a cheaper house, then over its lifetime spend more money on it than you would if you had done it well in the first place. I never said that made sense, necessarily.

[MoparNorm]

Of course in Quake land we use a different kind of construction here too.

Just amazed with that type of construction, Doesn´t it require more maintenance? Like painting to keep rain out? or the roofing ?

No, one thing you NEVER want to do is paint masonry, you create a life long maintenance issue because paint and concrete are not compatible, the paint blisters and "pops" because masonry/concrete needs to breath, it expands and contracts and the paint cannot. You end up repainting ever few years or having a building that looks like heck....
There are several very good waterproof sealers that spray on and are invisible. The Sealer on this building is also an anti graffiti sealer, spray paint or marker just washes off with a hose!



And the roof??