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Cutting Sheet Metal by hand...

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Keith in CO View Post
    Got to use one of these this past year: http://www.evolutiononlineshop.com/Evolution_Rage/Evolution_Rage/Evolution_Rage_Saws~x.cfm

    It would glide right through 3/8" steel and even welds easier than a circular saw cutting through plywood. Long straight cuts through sheet metal too. The steel blades are over $40, but can be re-tipped for about $25.
    It would be interesting to hear the operating noise level in 3/8 plate. I have a carbide toothed, Milwaukee chop saw with a 12 inch blade that does a marvelous job. I like it better than an abrasive saw, though the saw and the blades are more expensive than an abrasive version. It will supposedly do some pretty large diameter round bar, though I have only done fairly light tubing and C-channels, studs and the like, so far.
    Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


    Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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    • #17
      I have a DeWalt 'Multi-Saw and a conventional abrasive blade DeWalt, the sound is about the same, depending upon the type of material the abrasive saw is marginally louder, just a different "pitch"...

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      • #18
        The trailer manufacturer that I am laid off from uses a regular Dewalt cicular saw with a 40 tooth carbide to cut aluminum. That is very loud, ear plugs AND ear muffs are required. They have a few of the saws that are for cutting steel. Biggest difference is the RPM's. Regular saw is around 7000 RPM and the steel cutter is in the 1500 to 2000 range. They are nice because there is NO heat generated, you can pick up a freshly cut piece with bare hands. No burrs to clean up, and very easy to control also.

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        • #19
          Ha! 40 tooth would be loud!
          My blades are 80 and 92 tooth count, if makes a huge difference!

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          • #20
            Originally posted by MoparNorm View Post
            Ha! 40 tooth would be loud!
            My blades are 80 and 92 tooth count, if makes a huge difference!
            They use the 80 tooth but it seems to clog up on long cuts. The carbide is loud but lasts longer. The 80 tooth blades are constantly being resharpened also.

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            • #21
              Considering these various saws & blades & Gordon's mention of a chop saw: I was purchasing some cheap hardware store abrasive blades about the same as chop saw blades, for my circulars, to cut steel. Anywhere from $2.50 to $6.00 depending on various factors.

              Some are very narrow, almost like a die grinder cutoff blade. Surprised how long they lasted even on long cuts on some very tough 3/16" plate [50's U.S.A. steel]. Worked fine as a chop saw for bar stock also.

              For a casual user they work fine, very low cost. It's an economical alternative for a guy that doesn't want to invest a lot in a specialty saw. Works well for your basic cheapskate like me, too!

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              • #22
                This thread reminded me of an old trick I learned , take a regular (non carbide) plywood blade in a Circular saw and turn it around to run backwards.
                it basically melts through the sheetmetal and away you go.
                My brother and I used it to cut a moon roof into a 77 honda civic.... worked great and left a nice heat sealed edge on the headliner too.....

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Chris Olson View Post
                  This thread reminded me of an old trick I learned , take a regular (non carbide) plywood blade in a Circular saw and turn it around to run backwards.
                  it basically melts through the sheetmetal and away you go.
                  My brother and I used it to cut a moon roof into a 77 honda civic.... worked great and left a nice heat sealed edge on the headliner too.....
                  We flipped a plywood blade on a small cordless saw, 5" I think, and cut vinyl siding for trim work on a house and it was slick!!!!

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                  • #24
                    Yep, if you look closely at a regular plywood or panel saw blade, you'll notice that the teeth are reversed. They work well for cutting Lexan, when installed backwards also.

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