4bt, 80% daily driver, 10% tow rig FFPW???

[scrapdaddy]

I guess it all depends on ones body type and AGE! I would think a younger man could handle holding up his leg more than say me [old]. I drove a fj40 for ten years as a daily driver, no problem, not now. Charles, you got me thinking about the 3053 several years back, I have one in my deuce and like it. I'm running the 11-16 Mich., do you still think I would need the new OD gear ratio. Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but it should add to the dicussion.

[Charles Talbert]

When i mentioned upgrades done in house to the 3053; I wasn't referring to the overdrive ratio. The transmission will do just great with or without that. In fact I would suggest you be certain that you will have enough vitamins under the hood before considering raising the od ratio. The critical factor is 2nd gear oiling. We do an upgrade that fixes that issue for good. It generally isn't a factor in the M35 application because of minimal RPM range. The overdrive is simply an option you can take or leave.

[scrapdaddy]

That's good to know, I always thought it was good to go as it was. I guess it's never that easy. I've been wanting to talk to you in the near future anyway, so I'll add that to the list. Thanks Charles

[maineSS]

You can gain a little more legroom with hanging pedals in the PW, but it won't win you any Purist Points unless it happens to be a really late production model.

Another interesting link- this fellow is working with a '47 1/2 ton Fargo, but is upgrading the flathead and brakes- http://schaners.com/fargo/brakesinjection.htm .

He's evidently replaced the rear axle with a more modern Dodge one and added disc brakes, but didn't mention if he's changed anything up front.

Sounds like FI can be hit or miss- this guy and the one who used the Dodge LeBaron TBI had no problems, but Painless Wiring has been messing with a kit for the Ford flathead, and it's still not customer ready...

[scrapdaddy]

I never sat in one with the hanging pedals. That would be better for leg position. So you say the late models ones already had them, do you know what years. The OP is going to modify things anyway, might as well make it feel good driving.

[gixxer]

It would be neat to develop a parts list for a modern drive train, suspension, and steering using widely available assemblies. The links I found represent a few different ways of doing it, and some have more road time than others. Maybe Gixxer can draw up the definitive build for a special issue of PWA?

This sounds like a great idea, however I am in no way deserving of that honor. I am just a newbie trying to figure it all out. To be honest I wish someone would tell me :-). There seems to be a few people on here pretty well qualified to make such a parts list. I would be more then happy to share my build once I get started, but purchasing a truck is still several months away (working on becoming debt free at the moment other then mortgage).

A question for the O.P. have you ever driven a power wagon or sat in one?

To date I have only seen in person 3 power wagons. The one across the street from me when I was growing up, and two M series ambulances. One of which I went to see yesterday. I have never driven one. I had planned on using the hanging pedals from Uglytruckling.com, sounds like they help to some degree.

Bruce - I am going to spend more time going over all 60+ pages of your build, a lot of good info. in there and I am sure it will answer more than a few questions.

Thank you all again, all your insight is really shaping my build plans and research focus. I figure I have several months till purchasing a truck then I'll be on the parts hunt so I am hoping to have a clear direction by then.

[maineSS]

As far as the "definitive build" for modern daily driver road use is concerned, someone, sometime has to do it. Charles of M Series Rebuild does an outstanding job with OEM parts, but the wheel/tire situation and turning radius needs to advance into the late 20th century.

I've heard hanging pedals will free up about 2" more leg room. I'm not sure when they appeared, but it was probably the very late 50's or early 60's. The W300M and the WM300 would be most likely to have them.

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks, it would better to start with a newer one then? Sheet metal same quality. Seems I never see newer ones for sale.

[gixxer]

As far as the "definitive build" for modern daily driver road use is concerned, someone, sometime has to do it. Charles of M Series Rebuild does an outstanding job with OEM parts, but the wheel/tire situation and turning radius needs to advance into the late 20th century.

This got me thinking yesterday! What about a "definitive build" thread first? I would be more then willing to start it. There seems to be enough interest in it. It would be interesting to have those with experience in modifying these trucks chime in with what they like about how their project turned out and what they would change if they did it again.

Of course my perfect build will no doubt defer from others so I envision this thread as more of a informational and factual post such as a listing of years, makes and models of transmissions out there. Which of those are easiest (lack of adapters, input / output swaps), to bolt up to a "insert your motor here" and so on. My hope in doing this would be to uncover the best parts list that goes together the simplest, and provides the best bang for the buck. While at the same time meeting all the criteria we set.

So let me know what you think and where this thread should be started (meaning continue here or start in the conversions form).

[Gordon Maney]

Let's put it in the conversions forum, since some people may not view a diesel as their first choice, or their affordable choice.

[TK064]

great thread as I am in the same dilemma of how to proceed with an eye towards increasing safety a bit and maintaining the original as much as possible.

And hence my post, on the leaf spring shackles, how much play is normal taking into account it is a grease joint. my pins have visible wear and i am trying to decide if i should replace all the bushings and pins. Trying not to completely get nickle and dimed to death unless I have to, or is there a fix using poly bushings.

Thanks in advance

[maineSS]

There's not a lot of slop in new shackle pins & bushings as I found when I replaced mine. If you can see visible wear and move it around, it's time for a change, unless you want to get nickle & dimed on tire wear.

[Macadoo]

Checking in

gixxer, did you ever find a truck and if so, how is the project going?

[Macadoo]

I am working on putting my '59 PW onto a 97 Ram 2500 chassis. As long as you find a donor chassis built before '07 (I think) it will have a live axle front and rear if its 4wd. The front will be coil spring after '94, but with the ride quality they provide I am willing to skimp on original looks for comfort in that aspect. I have my '90 Wrangler if I want to ride in a 'truck'.

MolarFreak, I'm thinking of doing the samething with my '48 PW as you are doing. I am looking for a donor truck now. I also just moved to Boise and I see you are here as well. How is your project going?