Painting for the entry level person

[Frank Irons]

Gordon,what you need is a Tip HVLP turbine.Google Tip Canfield,Ohio.This is what I used when I started painting,it is very novice friendly and perfect for practicing in non critical areas.

I used the TIP HVLP to paint my M37 and found it worked quite well. I never painted a complete vehicle before but gave it a shot(no pun intended) on the old M. I have a high pressure gun which I use with my compressor but the overspray is excessive for painting without a spray booth.

Frank

[Clint Dixon]

I think the most important question has yet to be asked

Gordon, are you planning to tow your M37 behind your W300, or trailer it behind your W300 to the "Rally 25"?

Junior

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon, are you planning to tow your M37 behind your W300, or trailer it behind your W300 to the "Rally 25"?

Junior

I am planning on driving it to Rally 25. A good name, by the way.... Rally 25.

[Clint Dixon]

It guess it is kind of catchy.

I am planning on driving it to Rally 25. A good name, by the way.... Rally 25.

So....that means your are going to tow your W300 with your M37 - or - you are going to be making more than one trip, yes?

(I'm not giving up until I get the answer I want to hear.)

;^)

[Gordon Maney]

The combined issues of being underemployed and also trying to finish my house means I will be fortunate to get one truck done.

[Ron in Indiana]

Sounds like an opportunity to have a mini rally at Gordon's. some work on the trucks while others work on the house. Crossing over on work areas is fine too. I'm not fluent in M-37 speak but I know the other areas needing work. Any chance pork chops or pulled pork could enter into this. Oh and HyVee pancakes.

[Clint Dixon]

Sounds like an opportunity to have a mini rally at Gordon's. some work on the trucks while others work on the house. Crossing over on work areas is fine too. I'm not fluent in M-37 speak but I know the other areas needing work. Any chance pork chops or pulled pork could enter into this. Oh and HyVee pancakes.

Now you're thinking Ron. Trucks are never really "done" anyway. How many have we had pushed, pulled, or dragged to a rally before? Rally 25 is going to happen only once.....

[The Other Ross]

Gordon,I've been a PWA subscriber since 1995 and you've been working on your house the entire time.

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon,I've been a PWA subscriber since 1995 and you've been working on your house the entire time.

I would not dignify that comment with a response....

[Kevin in Ohio]

Gordon,
I did quite a bit of research on this subject before trying my truck. I've painted some tractors, one truck and some smaller partial jobs. Last one I did was over 15 years ago and things have changed a lot since then. I had only sprayed acrylic enamel before using a Binks number 7 gun and had great results.

You have to sit down and decide what you really want and be real with yourself. Paint prices have gone through the roof and as stated earlier, your safety MUST be addressed. What's the use in having a pretty paint job if your in a hospital bed or morgue. I invested in a fresh air system and don't regret it.

The one thing that hasn't changed is that prep work is the key. I've learned that everyone has THEIR way to get it done. Opinions and variances abound, not all right, not all wrong, it's just different approaches as the end result will tell the tale.

I was going for a show finish and searched the painting forums. Spent hours reading and gleaning info and made notes before asking questions. I went to cruise ins and searched for guys with nice paint and IF they did it themselves ask them questions. Sometimes it's better to see a persons work before considering them a source of info.

From my experience this is what I've learned. Most high end painters don't like HVLP. They've told me they can't get the finish they want and that means more labor on the cut and buff. HVLP is popular because you waste less paint as the overspray is not there as much. A MAJOR factor to bodyshops. I ended up getting what they call a compliant spray gun. A Devilbiss plus gun. It has served me well and it is supposed to use less paint with the same result.

Base/clear is pretty much the standard now but water based stuff will probably come soon due to goverment regs. I used base/clear for the red on my truck and acrylic urethane (black)on the frame.

I go over the way I did mine in the painting section of my truck album:

http://imageevent.com/kevininohio;js...r1.tiger_s?n=0

If you have more questions I'll help if I can. Again, I'm no expert on this but I'm happy with the way my attempt turned out. Kevin

[Frank Irons]

That is a nice paint job Kevin! The mud should slide off easily.

Frank

[LCollins]

Sandblasting and priming woes

I am currently attempting to sandblast and paint my 1950 power wagon's frame.The truck had sat for many years(25) with the drivers side exposed to the north,the direction all harsh weather tends to arrive from.Subsequently,the cab and frame took it hard,and you can see where water devoured the cab gutter,continued to erode the top of the door,and streamed down the door towards the front of the vehicle,exiting along the frame near the left rear bellhousing mount. As surely as glacial runoff carved rivers and valleys,exposure to these elements eroded a deep channel in my frame,accompanied by deep pitting several inches in each direction where the tilt of the truck allowed water to sit in betwen frame and body...the cab is soft over the tops of the doors,and the drivers floor is rotted bad.I have taken that original cab and set it aside because it needs a lot of fabrication,and I found another truck with a decent cab which I intend to put on. Because I never have time to completely sandblast and prime the entire frame,I am doing small areas.I will blast whatever time allows,then cover up exposed areas w/self etching primer.In areas with deep pitting,the rust creeps back through the primer.So I am wondering 2 things here....can i mix up some jb weld and fill the deep pits in the frame with it?Is there a primer available that will allow me to continue my "gradual" method of sandblasting?

[Charles Talbert]

What we do is this; blast it well with the correct media for the situation and immediately spray all bare metal liberally with a phosphate solution. That will kill any slight trace rust the blasting didn't reach and etches the metal. The phosphate solution will dry leaving a light residue that can be easily wiped away with a scotch brite pad. We follow up with 2 coats of epoxy primer right over the phosphate which seals out moisture completely. Primers in general do not seal out moisture. Sounds as if the one you are using is letting moisture through. It will work super fast in humid conditions of summer. If you want to fill the pits after applying epoxy, you can do so without worry of rust showing back up if you have done each step correctly. Filler will work just fine over the epoxy; follow up later with 3-4 coats of high build primer for a nice prep job prior to paint.

[LCollins]

Thank you for the helpful info,it is great to be able to profit from someones experience,trial and error is frustrating and costly.

[Bruce]

Rear View Mirrors

Hey Kevin, Those mirrors really reflect all of you work, incredible, it is!
Gordon, I'm a gravity feed painter, my 40 gallon tank manages to keep up with me.