Chassis save

[medic1241]

Anybody ever heard of or have any experience with "Chasis Save"? It costs around $150 per gallon and is said to be pretty good stuff.

[Charles Talbert]

Do you mean Chassis Saver? We have used some black years ago on a fire truck build. I see the truck from time to time, it has held up well after 10 or so years in service.

[Bruce]

Anybody ever heard of or have any experience with "Chasis Save"? It costs around $150 per gallon and is said to be pretty good stuff.

East Wood has it for $129 a gallon plus, plus, they also have a ceramic black.

Fox Run has a better $.

http://www.foxruntools.net/glossblac...-ucp99-01.aspx

[Charles Talbert]

Genuine Chassis Saver only comes from 1 place. Knock off products like East Wood items are something else totally. We got into some huge high $$ trouble with East Wood Products once, I have no use for that stuff at all.

[DavidGB]

Chassis Saver

Sounds like POR 15. Better? Worse? Not the same at all? Do or don't use either? Curious.
DavidGB

[Charles Talbert]

Sounds like POR 15. Better? Worse? Not the same at all? Do or don't use either? Curious.
DavidGB

POR15 is a totally different product system. Not even close to Chassis Saver.

[Chewie]

How far do you suppose a gallon will go? Enough for one frame? Maybe two? The pic doesn't get big enough to read any of the print.

[medic1241]

Yes, I did mean to type"Chassis", but I got in a hurry. Good comments and info. Thanks

[Bruce in BC]

Worth a google search

Most of these products seem to peel off or not last all that long . The best route I have found is blast , epoxy and then top coat . To date the best top coat has been a urethane , one part paint that has been on a test part of my trash truck . Twenty two years and not a blemish , truck is parked outside in the rain .
I have had good luck with non automotive paint on frames - industrial epoxy paint used on boats and barges and the top coats are too numerous to mention . The reason I have gone this route is price , 1/3 of automotive paint and it lasts just as long as the top brands .
. Water base on one test section did not hold up for much longer than 18 months , it may be the brand , it was on sale .
I have seen some powder coated frames , all of them had started to fail and the rust was creeping along under the powder coat . Ceramic coated frames are around and are rumoured to be pretty much bomb proof . I have a few ceramic coated parts and they have remained perfect . No place around here has an oven big enough for a frame .
Moisture activated paint has not held up on my truck - it has worked ok in my shop on my hoist - but I think I could peel it off if I started poking at it .

[Doc Dave]

Agree,
I did an "experiment" in 2005 and posted on Joe's forum about it.
I took one part I had blasted, and painted with epoxy primer and hardened urethane. The other part was blasted and painted with POR.
I dipped both in hot lye water for two minutes. The POR came off like a knife though butter. THe urethane acted like I had put it in water, no visible effect.
What I took from this, is that while hard, the POR does not bond to the metal as well as the urethane and primer system. As such, it can come off. I noticed that when I blasted my frame where the previous owner had applied POR. In places it came off in large sheets.
I see where Chasssis Saver is a moisture curing type coating like POR.

[Charles Talbert]

We used the genuine Chassis Saver on only 1 job, brush fire truck done in 1999. It has held up super good to this point.

We have powder coated numerous frames and frame components, great results, no peel off, or fading. How well the rust is removed is the KEY with any coating. If it isn't comp-letely gone, rust will surely grow back under any coating, be it powder or wet coat products. Also the way the coating is applied, be it powder or wet; epoxy, urethane, or whatever, if coverage isn't done right and water can get under it, the rust will come right back.

We have done many trucks many different ways, if the workmanship is right, you can get a decent lasting job using a host of different products, if workmanship is bad, the ending is sad, you can take that to the bank.

[Bruce in BC]

Powder coating

Yes the prep work counts for a lot of the failures . Corners of metal should be radiused and not sharp . Hot rolled metal should have the oxides removed and cold rolled needs to have all the oil removed . The shackles on a lot of new vehicles are powder coated - I just replaced some on an exploder - the powder coat peeled off and the steel had rusted most of the way through.
As to " Chassis saver " how many products have that name ? Are we all talking about the one made by magnetic paints ?

[Charles Talbert]

Yes the prep work counts for a lot of the failures . Corners of metal should be radiused and not sharp . Hot rolled metal should have the oxides removed and cold rolled needs to have all the oil removed . The shackles on a lot of new vehicles are powder coated - I just replaced some on an exploder - the powder coat peeled off and the steel had rusted most of the way through.
As to " Chassis saver " how many products have that name ? Are we all talking about the one made by magnetic paints ?

The genuine chassis saver coating is by magnet paint co. Others do use the name in some form or other also. The genuine product is the only one we have used, and like I said, that was on a project that was completed in 1999. It did great at that time, and has held up fine. I have no idea as to whether the product may be of a lesser quality these days like so many things have cut quality in recent years. I can't make any claims what so ever about the current production chassis saver product, as I simply don't know.

[safetyfactorman]

other possible constraints on use?

Is this product only good for moderate temperature areas? can it be used on diffs, or other powertrain parts too, that are subject to medium to high temperature? How well does it stand up to frost, or real darn cold (I'm in Kanada). Should it be used as a preventative measure - put in the bottom of doors, or inside the cab in those areas where rust commonly occurs, before priming and painting? Can it be exposed to sunlight?

[Bruce in BC]

Kanada ???

Take a look at ICI products . I have had great luck with their zinc epoxy . Top coated with industrial paint .