So my Dodge was running like crap and now it wont start.

[pieter]

I'm going to tag onto the end of this post since this is the same problem I was/am experiencing. Yesterday at a jobsite, we were getting ready to leave and the truck strarted/died, started/died, started/died. I got a hammer and hit the bottom of the tank, truck started and idled just fine.

I start to leave and head down the road and it's just coughing and cutting out. When coming to a stop, it would die. Stopped dead at a light and took a cycle through the lights before I got it going again. Pulled into a gas station and put another 5 gallons in the tank to see if it helped. Sort of did, but still had to baby it getting home.

Ordered a pump. Picked it up today (It's no much fun driving on pins and needles hoping not to get caught at red lights). Drive it to my friends place with a 12k lb 2-post lift. 3 hours later, had the pump replaced.

Although the truck seems to run better, it didn't solve all my problems. Running the truck at speed, it runs good. It use to surge at 50+ mph. Seems to be smoother now.

The bad part is when accelerating from a stop, it will cough and sputter if I slowly/normally accelerate. However, if I mash the skinny pedal to the floor from a dead stop, it will accelerate just fine. Other odd thing is that the fast idle is kicking in and won't kick down until the truck comes to a complete stop and rests for a second or two (no matter how warmed up the truck is). Other odd thing is that the transmission downshifts when slowing down now. It didn't do that yesterday or day before.

I'm a little stumped. Tomorrow if I don't have to work, I will change the sparkplugs out. I know they are going to be fouled up and dirty. I also need to pull the battery cable to clear the computer codes.

I tried pulling codes tonight, but I'm not getting a good readout. (could be because I'm a little annoyed). I'll try again in the morning to see what errors I am getting.

I'll report back when I change the plugs and re-check the error codes.

~sigh~

[greg rider]

I forgot to ask earlier but does it have an IAC ( idle air control ) motor on it? Friend of mine is just now having running problems with a Jeep and it is his IAC motor going bad. Just another 2 cents.

[pieter]

I finally has the patience and time to check my error codes:

12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
makes no sense as I've not disconnected it in a very long time. But Anytime I've checked my codes, I always get this error.

33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
I don't have A/C

14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
Should I get a new MAP sensor?

21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
It's a new sensor, I guess it could be bad. Last summer I had the same error code and changed it and still got the error code.

15 No speed/distance sensor signal
yesterday when I ran the error codes, the speedo wasn't working. It will probably work today. Sometimes it dies for a day or two and then works again.

17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
Changed thermostat last summer as well.

Guess overall, MAP sensor seems to maybe be a culprit???

Anyone have some thoughts or what they would start with?

Pieter

[XwelderX]

Change your Coolant Temp Sensor. I had the same problem with my truck sputtering when I came to a stop. I got the codes. 12, 15, 17, 37. Changed the temp sensor and all but code 12 went away. The **** temp sensor apparently screws up everything.

[Bill in MI]

Pieter,

I don't recall what driveabilty issues you had with your truck but looking at the fault codes, all the sensors you mentioned that logged a fault have a common sensor return wire back to the SBEC module.

Just a hunch - there is a splice in the wire harness on the passenger side valve cover, near the vacuum trio solenoids on the valve cover.
It is a 18BK/LB gauge wire that runs back to cavity 4 on the SBEC connector.

I would start by checking continuity on that wire between the SBEC connector and some of the sensors - coolant, map, O2, TPS. You might need the factory service manual/wire diagram to see what I'm talking about.

I would do that check and possibly run the truck with a scan tool hooked up to observe sensor operation. You might just find a poor connection somewhere.

Good luck

[pieter]

Thanks Welder and Bill!

I'll take a look at your suggestions. I don't have a FSM, so I'll have to wing it and see what I can do w/o one.

Pieter