Brake Booster for Drum/Drum

[jrodjared]

There may already be a thread for this, and if there is, please forgive me and point me in the right direction. But has anyone kept their factory brake system (drum/drum) and added a booster to the equation? All the searches I did referred to a rotor/drum setup with proportioning valves. All I want to do is increase my foot's effectiveness. At some point down the road I might consider the Ugly Duckling swap, but at this point I am just looking to get up and running. However, I am at a point where I need to start thinking about these things before I get the body back on.

What has been everyone's experience? Should I leave well enough alone? I plan on re-gearing the rear so I can ride at comfortable highway speed, like 65mph. Want to make sure I have enough stopping power.

[Kaiser2boy]

65 MPH? good luck. If you are still running the 230cid engine you will be doing a lot of down shifting every time you go up even a slight incline.
If you live in Forida you might be OK,,no hills.
Even with the higher gears hitting 65 MPH will be a feat attained only at max RPM's . If your engine is old you may very well launch some parts out of it at 65.

[Gordon Maney]

There may already be a thread for this, and if there is, please forgive me and point me in the right direction. But has anyone kept their factory brake system (drum/drum) and added a booster to the equation? All the searches I did referred to a rotor/drum setup with proportioning valves. All I want to do is increase my foot's effectiveness. At some point down the road I might consider the Ugly Duckling swap, but at this point I am just looking to get up and running. However, I am at a point where I need to start thinking about these things before I get the body back on.

What has been everyone's experience? Should I leave well enough alone? I plan on re-gearing the rear so I can ride at comfortable highway speed, like 65mph. Want to make sure I have enough stopping power.

Quite a few have used vacuum boosters on Power Wagons, which is a very similar truck with the same brakes. So, yes, it is a great idea on an M37. Vintage Power Wagons would have those boosters available.

[Kaiser2boy]

I too have given thought to a booster but have not seen any info on just where it would mount on the M37.
It would be great to have a litle help with the stopping ability.

[jrodjared]

65 MPH? good luck. If you are still running the 230cid engine you will be doing a lot of down shifting every time you go up even a slight incline.
If you live in Forida you might be OK,,no hills.
Even with the higher gears hitting 65 MPH will be a feat attained only at max RPM's . If your engine is old you may very well launch some parts out of it at 65.

I'm swapping out to a Dodge 318, so there will be a little more umph behind the pedal ;-)

I'm going to keep researching and keep you guys posted. If anyone has pics of things they have seen or have, please post.

[Kaiser2boy]

That will do it.
I am one of the bone heads that went with keeping it all original. I have second quessed that move several times. I like the idea of it being all original , I dont like the whimpyness of originality.
I joke with people saying that the truck is better suited for agricultural work , low speed high torque.

[Frank Irons]

There may already be a thread for this, and if there is, please forgive me and point me in the right direction. But has anyone kept their factory brake system (drum/drum) and added a booster to the equation? All the searches I did referred to a rotor/drum setup with proportioning valves. All I want to do is increase my foot's effectiveness. At some point down the road I might consider the Ugly Duckling swap, but at this point I am just looking to get up and running. However, I am at a point where I need to start thinking about these things before I get the body back on.

What has been everyone's experience? Should I leave well enough alone? I plan on re-gearing the rear so I can ride at comfortable highway speed, like 65mph. Want to make sure I have enough stopping power.

I used a Midland booster on my M37 and retained the stock brakes. Booster was mounted on left side just behind the transfer case and attached to the left frame rail.

Frank

[jrodjared]

Frank

Do you have a part number and/or pictures?

[Kaiser2boy]

It would be good to see a picture of that set up. I know the original MC is mounted very close to the frame rail and I cant get it in my head how the foot pedal linkage would line up with a booster unit due to the large diameter of the boost unit. I see units on EBAY now and then and they also seem to have a large booster diameter canister that would move the centerline of the MC out of line with the linkage.
Is there some off set kit needed?

[Frank Irons]

It would be good to see a picture of that set up. I know the original MC is mounted very close to the frame rail and I cant get it in my head how the foot pedal linkage would line up with a booster unit due to the large diameter of the boost unit. I see units on EBAY now and then and they also seem to have a large booster diameter canister that would move the centerline of the MC out of line with the linkage.
Is there some off set kit needed?

Unfortuately I do not have any photos of my installation, but simply stated the setup is easy. The booster is a remote unit and is like a seperate master cylinder. Basically you plumb from your master cylinder to the booster and route to the wheel cylinders from there. The master cylinder triggers the booster cylinder which supplies the added boost provided by the vacuum chamber. No linkage required, just brake line tubing.

Frank

[Kaiser2boy]

Unfortuately I do not have any photos of my installation, but simply stated the setup is easy. The booster is a remote unit and is like a seperate master cylinder. Basically you plumb from your master cylinder to the booster and route to the wheel cylinders from there. The master cylinder triggers the booster cylinder which supplies the added boost provided by the vacuum chamber. No linkage required, just brake line tubing.

Frank

Hmm. interesting,,,thanks.

[jrodjared]

yes (stroking chin), very interesting.. good info

[W_A_Watson_II]

Unfortuately I do not have any photos of my installation, but simply stated the setup is easy. The booster is a remote unit and is like a seperate master cylinder. Basically you plumb from your master cylinder to the booster and route to the wheel cylinders from there. The master cylinder triggers the booster cylinder which supplies the added boost provided by the vacuum chamber. No linkage required, just brake line tubing.

Frank

I do believe that's the way my W500 brakes are set up.

[Kaiser2boy]

Not to beat a dead horse but do you have a photo and or a part number?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Mine should be a: Hydravac Brake Booster Part Number: NBB 518031 or NBB 518020

Part Number: NBB 518031
Attributes: Cylinder Diameter : 11 1/2"
Inlet Port Size : 1/4"
OE Manufacturer : Midland
Outlet Port Size : 1/4" Inverted Flare
Overall Length : 16 1/8"
Vacuum Port Size : 1/2" PIPE

Part Number: NBB 518020
Attributes: Cylinder Diameter : 12 1/2"
Inlet Port Size : 1/2"
OE Manufacturer : Bendix
Outlet Port Size : 1/4"
Overall Length : 15"
Vacuum Port Size : 3/8"

If needed I can take a picture and e-mail it to you.