New M37 owner

[Charles Talbert]

Ok, that sound sensible.. The federal mogul ecatalog online actually lists old power wagons and shows national 410308 for the NP200 two speed T-case.

The National 410308 cross references to the NAPA 21213 seals I have now.. The 410308 also cross references to the NAPA 21210 that I got on a cross reference from the Garlock #

The sleeves I have match your numbers already. Seems like I'm good to go, just a lot thinner seal.

Thanks Charles..

Be sure you are getting a double lip, double case seal. If what you have is thinner, something isn't right. Be sure you are trading apples for apples, just because the cross reference guide says it works by no means is saying it's the same.

[jmacqueen]

Be sure you are getting a double lip, double case seal. If what you have is thinner, something isn't right. Be sure you are trading apples for apples, just because the cross reference guide says it works by no means is saying it's the same.

Well it looks like a heavy case seal, by thinner I mean it's not as thick as the old garlock with the felt seal that is about 3/4" thick or more.

This one is closer to 1/2" thick. With both laid flat on the bench the old one is about 1/4" taller.

[Charles Talbert]

Well it looks like a heavy case seal, by thinner I mean it's not as thick as the old garlock with the felt seal that is about 3/4" thick or more.

This one is closer to 1/2" thick. With both laid flat on the bench the old one is about 1/4" taller.

The 410308 is thinner than the ones with the felt, 1/2" sounds about right.

[jmacqueen]

Progress this weekend...

I got my friend Doc to come and help me get some 2 man work done.

Got the T-case ready to go last night..

Then as soon as Doc showed we hauled it over and bolted it in the frame..

Then in the space of about 20 minutes of lifting cab and pushing bolts we found ourselves here with cab and bed floor on...

[jmacqueen]

T-case safely snuggled in under the cab...



Then in a few hours later after much bolt installing, with a a lot more work knocking and prying with alignment punches turned to this...



And by dark it was all tucked inside the garage, so now I can work on weeknights, as it gets dark here now at 5pm.






Mission accomplished, except for finishing brakes, when I started on it this morning I realized I still needed a few more fittings to get it done. But there's more than enough free space underneath to work get that done with the body on.

Was a bit of work, the bed was solid, no rust, but was bent up, cut stretched and the wheel well and sides weren't a lot better. I decided not to repair any of it past basic straightening.. so a lot of the parts needed persuasion to line up. Quite a bit of paint touch up to do as well, but I figure it'll get painted again before too long once it's all together and running a while.

But now I can work in where it's warm, and every night.

[jmacqueen]

By the way Charles, is the fuel/power curve any different on the QSB?

It would be nice if was most efficient at a little higher RPM than a 4b, but I can't locate a chart.

[Charles Talbert]

By the way Charles, is the fuel/power curve any different on the QSB?

It would be nice if was most efficient at a little higher RPM than a 4b, but I can't locate a chart.

The charts I have at present are both rated at 130HP, peak torque for 4BTA is 344 FT.lbs. Peak torque for the QSB is 457 FT. lbs. Fuel consumption figures are charted at about 2% less for the QSB, so no substantial difference there by the time driving variables, terrain etc. are factored in. We can do the QSB as high as 160HP, don't have charts for that set up at this time.

[jmacqueen]

Well it's time for the next decision...

I have to do something about the front springs.

Either get a NOS set and add a couple of springs to them, or get a new set made from Eaton spring or somewhere.

So far I know I need about 500lbs extra capacity for winch and a cummins 4 cylinder.. At least I think I remember a 4bt being 250lbs more then the flathead..

I've also read Charles in several posts talking about a 2" lift for a cummins pan clearance. Is this using 2" spacers on top of adding 2 extra leaves to the springs?

Anyway I'd like to pick you guys brains about added carrying capacity and lift if I order custom springs from Eaton. Is asking them to add 2" of lift and 500lbs of capacity sounding right? Or would I end up with the front too high?

I don't mind the front being almost level with the back, I'd prefer it there actually.. maybe an inch lower or so.

[Bruce]

Big Difference

Looking real Sharp, I love the Combat Rims. Sometimes another pair of hands makes all the difference.

[Charles Talbert]

Well it's time for the next decision...

I have to do something about the front springs.

Either get a NOS set and add a couple of springs to them, or get a new set made from Eaton spring or somewhere.

So far I know I need about 500lbs extra capacity for winch and a cummins 4 cylinder.. At least I think I remember a 4bt being 250lbs more then the flathead..

I've also read Charles in several posts talking about a 2" lift for a cummins pan clearance. Is this using 2" spacers on top of adding 2 extra leaves to the springs?

Anyway I'd like to pick you guys brains about added carrying capacity and lift if I order custom springs from Eaton. Is asking them to add 2" of lift and 500lbs of capacity sounding right? Or would I end up with the front too high?

I don't mind the front being almost level with the back, I'd prefer it there actually.. maybe an inch lower or so.

4BT only goes about 750lbs. We add 2 extra leaves to the spring packs & a 1" height block. 2" is needed if you don't add leaves. This is based on correct steering geometry for our steering set up. Depends on your set up as to whether this may or may not work for you.

[jmacqueen]

Time for some more brain picking...

When I put the bed back on, I bought pads from VPW for the job, wanting to replace all the old rubber parts.. And it's been quite a while since I pulled the bed..

I'm usually pretty good at figuring out where things go but I'm stuck here.

They sent me 14 pads.. 8 square pads 1/4" thick, 4 round pads with nipples about 1/4" thick, and two pads with nipples that are 3/4" thick.

Looking at the manual it only shows 12 pads. The part that gets me is the 3/4" thick ones with nipples. I assumed they would go on the mounts that are on the back edge of the tool compartment, but they sure seem too thick.

Did I get the right parts?

Do I need to just double up two square pads on the front mounts?

I tried this and it still looks like those 3/4" pads are too thick. Should I have thicker square pads on the front mounts?

Anyway, I got the brake lines all plumbed in. Had a 20 foot roll of brake line and ended up with just 6" of it left when I was finished.. I installed an adjustable proportioning valve and a 2lb residual valve front and rear to make sure I got no siphoning.

Today I'll mount the pedals, bleed the system, and start installing the lights and repro wiring harness. That's going to be a bit of a job, as a previous owner had stripped the original harness out and replaced it with a home made one made with boat wiring. Nothing to go by to see where it all goes, and lots of original equipment missing under the dash.

Anyone know a good place to buy some packard connectors that isn't very pricey?

My goal is to try to get the harness in and everything wired without cutting into it, which will take extra connectors and some creativity.

[Bruce]

Harness ?'s

Time for some more brain picking...

When I put the bed back on, I bought pads from VPW for the job, wanting to replace all the old rubber parts.. And it's been quite a while since I pulled the bed..

I'm usually pretty good at figuring out where things go but I'm stuck here.

They sent me 14 pads.. 8 square pads 1/4" thick, 4 round pads with nipples about 1/4" thick, and two pads with nipples that are 3/4" thick.

Looking at the manual it only shows 12 pads. The part that gets me is the 3/4" thick ones with nipples. I assumed they would go on the mounts that are on the back edge of the tool compartment, but they sure seem too thick.

Did I get the right parts?

Do I need to just double up two square pads on the front mounts?

I tried this and it still looks like those 3/4" pads are too thick. Should I have thicker square pads on the front mounts?

Anyway, I got the brake lines all plumbed in. Had a 20 foot roll of brake line and ended up with just 6" of it left when I was finished.. I installed an adjustable proportioning valve and a 2lb residual valve front and rear to make sure I got no siphoning.

Today I'll mount the pedals, bleed the system, and start installing the lights and repro wiring harness. That's going to be a bit of a job, as a previous owner had stripped the original harness out and replaced it with a home made one made with boat wiring. Nothing to go by to see where it all goes, and lots of original equipment missing under the dash.

Anyone know a good place to buy some packard connectors that isn't very pricey?

My goal is to try to get the harness in and everything wired without cutting into it, which will take extra connectors and some creativity.

I don't remember just how many pads I rec'd from John @ MidWestMil, but I only asked for bed mounting pads, 4 w/the nips and another 4 sq. ones, I'll check deminisions for you later today.
As for the packhard connector's you can do better than them, Charles will have a recomendation.

Originally the rear harness went up the passenger side, secured w/ steele/rubber coated strapping, anchored inside the frame rails, the anchor points should reveal themselves to you?
I still haven't been able to work on my bed, almost healed up from wrist surgery.

[jmacqueen]

Hmm new problem,

I was looking at maybe buying new springs from Eaton spring, witha extra capacity.

The guy I'm corresponding with through E-mail says they show an 11 leaf front, and 14 leaf rear. and shows 1.75 width fronts..

Does that make sense to anyone?

[Charles Talbert]

Hmm new problem,

I was looking at maybe buying new springs from Eaton spring, witha extra capacity.

The guy I'm corresponding with through E-mail says they show an 11 leaf front, and 14 leaf rear. and shows 1.75 width fronts..

Does that make sense to anyone?

These will not work. This is the leaf count & width for a civilian power wagon. M37 has as standard 7 in the front & 11 in the rear, width is 2". Some specialty trucks went as many as 16 in the rear,(contact maintenance trucks). Personally I like 9 in the front & 13 in the rear. If you never plan to haul a load, 11 is ok in the rear.

[MoparNorm]

Hmm new problem,

I was looking at maybe buying new springs from Eaton spring, witha extra capacity.

The guy I'm corresponding with through E-mail says they show an 11 leaf front, and 14 leaf rear. and shows 1.75 width fronts..

Does that make sense to anyone?

Talk to JimmieD about Eaton, they screwed up his Cummins conversion.