New M37 owner

[Charles Talbert]

We have the gears custom cut to do these upgrades, also requires mainshaft upgrades. I've never had a problem with our rebuilt transfer case. We run 50 weight oil, runs somewhat cooler with that. I've had 1 customer to call back with a failed bearing on the e-brake rear unit. After asking many questions though he admitted seeing a puddle of oil at the onset. He then drove 25 miles to a friends house before adding oil. Likely in the beginning was only a failed seal, but after driving 25 miles with low or no oil, the bearings seized. This is the only call back we have ever had on a rebuilt case, in my opinion it was no smarts on the part of the operator.

[Desoto61]

Better check out that Spicer 3053A to see if it has the upgraded 2nd gear, if it doesn't it will seize on the mainshaft the first time you hit 55MPH. We are regearing all our rebuilds now to a .69 over-drive, better fuel economy, less wear on drive train components, longer life for the whole system. Also upgrading 2nd gear to needle bearings. We build our own spring packs, been the route of the spring shop also with a bad experience.

I like that gearing setup better than some of the other options I've seen. Maybe I'll have to save my pennies and get you guys to build me one.

[Charles Talbert]

I like that gearing setup better than some of the other options I've seen. Maybe I'll have to save my pennies and get you guys to build me one.

It's seriously the best of both worlds, plenty of low end, 1to1 4th gear, & a .69 over-drive for speed & economy over the road.

[jmacqueen]

We have the gears custom cut to do these upgrades, also requires mainshaft upgrades. I've never had a problem with our rebuilt transfer case. We run 50 weight oil, runs somewhat cooler with that. I've had 1 customer to call back with a failed bearing on the e-brake rear unit. After asking many questions though he admitted seeing a puddle of oil at the onset. He then drove 25 miles to a friends house before adding oil. Likely in the beginning was only a failed seal, but after driving 25 miles with low or no oil, the bearings seized. This is the only call back we have ever had on a rebuilt case, in my opinion it was no smarts on the part of the operator.

That's what I was thinking, that those guys probably had leaks and ran out of oil. That case doesn't seem to hold that much oil anyway and if the level got down below the gears it would go downhill fast.

[jmacqueen]

Well engine and trans are on their way...

Time to start getting together the things I need for an engine mount.

Two questions for those familiar with a 4bt swap....

I'm thinking 3/8" steel will be the lightest I'lll want to go for fabbing up mounts..

What are most folks using for vibration isolation for 4bt engine's?

Ohh and a pic, it's starting to look like a truck again...

I was going to get a new windshield frame as mine has been welded to a home made sheet metal top all across the top, and all but 3 of the windshield bolts across the top broke off in it.

I decided to just try to use it for now and look for better one later. I drilled out the old bolts and tapped the holes for a 1/4" fine thread bolts and put it in place. I think I can grind off the remaining weld across the top and get the windshield back in and a canvas top on it for now. If so I'll clean it up and give it some paint.

Both doors have been seriously bent, had to straighten them a bit, weld up cracks in them and use some persuasion, but they open and close smoothly now, when I bought it they stuck and jammed and would hardly open and close.

I got a NOS steering box as my old column etc was horribly hacked (shown in earlier pics) and now I have a clean NOS setup to start with so I can upgrade to PS from it much more cleanly.

I grabbed a 240v heater fron Northern Tool for $99 on sale, so I can work in a T-shirt on it the next couple months.

[Desoto61]

More information here than you'll know what to do with. I don't remember seeing any designs for our trucks specifically but there's enough options that something will apply.

I'm excited to see what you come up with. I've had lots of similar questions but I've a long way to go till I'm ready for this particular step.

The engineer in me wants to fab something up and learn how to do it myself, but the practical side is thinking that if the overtime gods are happy with me I may just get Charles to bolt a new motor in. It would be the single biggest expense in the truck, and I wouldn't get the satisfaction of doing it myself, but there's peace of mind in knowing it would be right, and backed by Cummins and Charles.

[jmacqueen]

Yes I've been looking over there...

What keeps popping into mind is basically replicating the mounts the transfer case uses. A plate steel section sandwiched between two rubber discs..

And I have to learn more about the 8 or 10 degree tilted mounting, might help the oil pan clear the diff better, and eliminate or reduce possible pan modification need. I'm not sure if just rotating it a bolt hole on the SAE # housing is possible or a good idea.

I know I want to use the trucks stock 4 engine mounting pads.

[MoparNorm]

...
What are most folks using for vibration isolation for 4bt engine's?...

Confirm this with Charles, but I seem to remember a Dodge or Cummins mount that is liquid (gel) filled to reduce vibration...?

[Desoto61]

Confirm this with Charles, but I seem to remember a Dodge or Cummins mount that is liquid (gel) filled to reduce vibration...?

I do remember reading over at the 4bt forums that they are very good mounts both for strength and vibration isolation, but are often hard to utilize in most peoples mounting configurations due to dimensions.

[JimmieD]

The stock Fluid-lastic Gel filled mounts found in stepvans with 4BT are likely the best of all isolators. As mentioned, dimensions are a potential problem because they're quite tall, and fairly wide.

Many guys claim good results with stock 6BT CTD mounts. Many possiblities, but you're dealing with some unusual crank harmonics vibration issues, not found in 6BT. The 4BT is inherently imbalanced, prone to shakes at shutdown and some harmonic vibrations. You want an isolator substantial enough to handle the 700-775 lbs weight, but supple enough to absorb vibration.

I chose to go with 1/2" plate to fab my motor mounts just as a fail safe. Endless assortment of configurations used, only imagination and available room limits the possibilities.

Have to look at frame itself, that you don't induce flex with your mount configuration. I designed a mount that reinforces frame & prevents flex while also full supporting engine without doing any welding on frame. Frame's steel is heat treated and shoudn't be welded as it weakens it.

You have to consider those shake/vibration issues for all isolators, t-case & tranny included. Strong but supple, never try used [hard] rubber mounts like I did!

I may do an article for Power Wagon Advertiser magazine in the near future, but have to pull my fabbed mounts first. I had painted them satin black and they won't show up in sepia pics in the magazine, so have to pull, repaint in satin gray and take new pictures.

The 4BT is a mighty large chunk to bite off and chew for a project, not a simple swap at all! Well worth it in the long run though. I like having a 5,800 lbs. full sized Dodge Town Wagon that gets a proven 32 mpg on the hi-way and has all the power I'd ever want.

.

[jmacqueen]

Right now I'm looking at these mounts if I can find a set that will fit the back mounts, and the front mounts with the weight capacity.

They have a local distributor close by.

http://www.lord.com/Portals/0/Vibrat...ece_mounts.pdf

Or something like these...

http://www.avproductsinc.com/HA-H-3.pdf

I'll have to do some homework once I get the engine and flywheel housing in hand next week.

[jmacqueen]

Hmm was fooling around with the canvas top bows today, The truck came with a mutilated set with sheet metal welded to em.

I got a set of U-bolts and a set of J bolts with it, The truck didn;t have any before, can anyone explain where the Jbolts go?

It looks like they go in right at the top of the lock pillar, but it sure doesn't seem like it's right when I stick em in there..

[Bruce]

Hmm was fooling around with the canvas top bows today, The truck came with a mutilated set with sheet metal welded to em.

I got a set of U-bolts and a set of J bolts with it, The truck didn;t have any before, can anyone explain where the Jbolts go?

It looks like they go in right at the top of the lock pillar, but it sure doesn't seem like it's right when I stick em in there..

On each rear pilar there are two pockets, the U goes in the lower hole, the J is the top anchor. Each upright has two concentric rings in the bottom of each side, tighten each nut, don't forget to use a lock washer so your top won't blow off!
I thought I had the pocket pics, but couldn't find 'em.

[JimmieD]

Right now I'm looking at these mounts if I can find a set that will fit the back mounts, and the front mounts with the weight capacity.

They have a local distributor close by.

http://www.lord.com/Portals/0/Vibrat...ece_mounts.pdf

Or something like these...

http://www.avproductsinc.com/HA-H-3.pdf

I'll have to do some homework once I get the engine and flywheel housing in hand next week.

Thanks, JMac, for that link! The Lord Type CBB look perfect for my configuration of motor mounts and a perfect solution for some vibration problems!! Looked for them for 2 years, never found them.

JimmieD

[jmacqueen]

On each rear pilar there are two pockets, the U goes in the lower hole, the J is the top anchor. Each upright has two concentric rings in the bottom of each side, tighten each nut, don't forget to use a lock washer so your top won't blow off!
I thought I had the pocket pics, but couldn't find 'em.

That's what I thought, The u bolts go in and work fine, but when I tighten the Jbolts up top they just turn and leave the nut 45 degrees from the surface it tightens to, like there's supposed to be another part on the Jbolt to keep it straight or something.

Here's a pic... Don't mind the grey primer, something the guy I had spray it left undone I have to touch up.