The WC53 Carryall thread .

[vtunderground53]

4 door looks nice

That's a cool rendition, Dirtfab. I like the looks a lot. I had been considering a similar look for mine as I wanted to put in two rows of seating in the back. It looks fairly proportional too. I think the jambs between the fixed window and operable door are a little wide but I don't know if you could remedy that without the door getting too wide. Other than that, it looks pretty nice.

[Alxj64]

After fighting with my tailgate build, and still being displeased with how that came out / still need to finish it... You couldn't talk me into building a 4 door. I'm too impatient. I do however like the way you plan on doing it. I think that it looks more "natural" that way. Even if you use the old Crew Cab sweptlines as references.

Okay parts hoarders... I need something goofy.., well two things.

I am trying to track down a CCKW squeeze type lever (I believe it was the parking brake) and also a WC rear shackle. Just need one as I am not actually using it as a shackle for the springs but rather a shackle for my anti-wrap bar that I am going to start fabricating here soon.

The squeeze lever I am hoping to adapt into my transmission shifter lever. Its either that or replicate the manual transmission shifter (to an extent) and then have a little side pull lever or collar below the knob that will pull a rod or wire inside the shifter... just for my Park and N lockouts.

Thanks guys!

[Bob Thompson]

Here is the tentative rough plan for my WC53. I've been compiling lots of parts in order to pull this one off. I started with my WC53, 4 additional Power Wagon doors, and a second carryall body. Silver with black fenders is my color choice. I don't want to stretch the wheelbase. I want it to look and feel like a WC53 at 1st glance. I've seen the other 4-door conversion on here and the large middle window that matches the front window just does not feel right to my eye. I played around with door placement so that the space between windows is similar. It will require a wheel-well cut-out for the rear doors much like a modern Chevy Tahoe etc. What do you guys think?

Have a look at late thirties Dodge and Plymouth sedans, and see if the if a D or P4 will supply the shape and proportion you need for your doors. That's what I'm using on my project although I will have to trim down the sedan doors a bit.

[vtunderground53]

Dodges

Just did an image search on that and turned up some awesome cars. Dodge really made some nice cars back in the day. Probably right up to the early 70's....I had a 72 Duster that rocked! Really liked the fuel though....
Those 37-39 P4s look well proportioned for the 4door situation.

[dirtfab]

The P4 door looks pretty good, but the challenge is dealing with the lines of the carryall and how the rear two windows are recessed slightly. It looks goofy in my opinion if only the rear window was recessed. This also is what somewhat determines the width between windows and door frames- especially between the front door and proposed door.

[Bruce in BC]

Carryall over a bank

My brother was in a trash store looking at some old WW2 binoculars. A guy walks in and gets to talking with my brother. Turns out the guy had 2 carryalls and traded them for some stuff . Also turns out that this same guy new where a carryall was pushed over a bank . He had just pulled the doors off because he wanted the doors for wall art . The doors had all the WW2 army art on the doors. I am trying to get the location in the hope of getting some parts off the thing . It was complete , until the doors got pulled.
Want to bet the guy will not give up the location?

Bruce

[Bob Thompson]

My brother was in a trash store looking at some old WW2 binoculars. A guy walks in and gets to talking with my brother. Turns out the guy had 2 carryalls and traded them for some stuff . Also turns out that this same guy new where a carryall was pushed over a bank . He had just pulled the doors off because he wanted the doors for wall art . The doors had all the WW2 army art on the doors. I am trying to get the location in the hope of getting some parts off the thing . It was complete , until the doors got pulled.
Want to bet the guy will not give up the location?

Bruce

Good luck with that Bruce. If you send me an Email I can send you a couple pics of the AMP crimping tools I have. Perhaps one or the other can help your project.
pwgnbob@roadrunner.com

[Bruce in BC]

Thanks for that Bob

I think I have my head around what the connectors are. They are type"F". I have a pair of ratchet pliers on order.
I am running some of the bigger cables right now. I need 11 ft of 1 gauge, just to get to the starter. I have a big on off switch on the inside of the body and over the batteries. With this I can run #1 or #2 or #1 & #2 . I have yet to figure out all the wiring details.

Bruce

[dirtfab]

Alex,

I found my 1999 receipt from when I worked at 4 Wheel Parts and ordered Dana Spicer parts to make a custom steering shaft that you were asking about on Facebook. You will have to call them for pricing or another Spicer dealer as all I have is 1999 Cost +10%, which I am sure has gone up some. Other than the u-joints, they do not stock the items.

(D/S is 4 Wheel Parts line code for Dana Spicer)
3/4" Rod w/Key Way Groove - D/S 12-91-72
3/4" Slip Shaft - D/S 10-3-13X
3/4" Yolk (Accepts 5-170X U-Joint) - D/S 10-4-13
U-Joint - D/S 5-170X
Key (I think I had to buy a box of 25 or 50. Probably cheaper to find at a local farm/tractor shop as you can typically buy one at a time.) D/S 449D
Key Way Set Screw - D/S 378485-18
Steering Shaft Yoke (This yoke had the same spline count as my 1976 CJ stock shaft coming out of the firewall. My handwritten notes state 1" x 48 spline. I can't seem to find the Spicer specification sheet for this one. You should not need this one, but will need a yoke to match the shaft in your custom column. D/S 10-4-431SX
Steering Box Yoke (This yoke is .764" minor diameter, 36 spline, .406" retaining bolt hole that is center-line of steering box input shaft to TOP of retaining bolt hole is .72". Center of bolt hole to the the end of the non-ujoint side of the yoke is .469". This worked on the stock 1976 CJ5 PS Steering box. You may need a different one, but Spicer makes many splined yokes.) D/S 10-4-501SX

I hope this helps. May not be that much cheaper than some of the aftermarket steering shafts out there. I don't think I have any pictures of the steering shaft and I sold this Jeep almost 10 years ago.

EDIT: Northern Drivertrain had most of the part numbers listed on their site. Note that the steering box yoke is actually 30 splines based on 36. You lose 6 splines due to the flat machined in the shaft if I recall correctly.

Scott

[Bruce in BC]

Where did everybody go?

Too darn quiet out there. I loose my password for a few days and no one posts diddlysquat. I need sum thin to read and drool over.

I picked up some batteries , nothing to drool over , just a couple of Costco 800 amp starter batteries that may last just as long as an optima or maybe not.
I got a big honking 300amp battery switch to shut things down. I just ran some 1/0 gauge wire to the fire wall….I ordered 2/0 but it did not arrive.
I put a couple of fenders on and I just noticed both my rear callipers are leaking again , I am getting new copper washers and I will pull the callipers and scrub the darn surfaces ubber dooper clean. To be honest I think they where pretty much ubber doober clean the last time I went at them.
I will post some pretty pictures tomorrow , just to give some of you a pictorial of what not to do.

Bruce

[Alxj64]

Scott, for some reason I didn't get an email notification that you had posted all of that info above. Thanks VERY much for the time you spent putting all that together. I am certainly going to be investigating that route as I like the idea of being able to service the steering shaft as the joints wear out and such not to mention having a bigger steering shaft assembly is more comforting knowing that I may have to muscle these 38"s around with no power or something.

In regards to my whereabouts... Not much to report here really as I've been swamped with my day job traveling all over God's creation and when I am home I have been working stupid hours. I really hope I get compensated for it all at the end of the year as I am salary and not hourly and its been 3 years of this mess; if things don't change I'll be making the change for myself.

I started to get the firewall to transmission cover laid out and shaped and started to get some floorboard shapes laid out. Between the 3" exhaust, and this SAE bell Allison 1k... and the rear gear train Cummins... the floorboard is going to be a mess to build. In that regards I have some more tooling on the way that I am just going to keep my hands off the truck until it shows up.

Only pictures I can find... Ohh and I sourced a CCKW parking brake handle that I am going to trim down and re-bush to use as my transmission shifter handle. Has the squeeze type lockout.

I'll try and snag some pictures at some point today and get them dumped in here. I know people like pictures.

[Alxj64]

Pictures. Keep in mind this is all mockup work so things are out of place, not finished, etc etc.

[Bruce in BC]

and a couple of pictures from up North

I had more but they were way out of focus. Odd thing is the bus bar looks fine on the firewall, and everything is square and balanced but in the photo it looks lame. The black piece behind the wires is there to help prevent shorts. I plan on having a bracket made to clamp the wires to the firewall and not have them supported by the lugs.

This is the bomb box that may end up set into the side at a later date.





Looking good Alex, beads are so helpful…..and they look stock.
I love that lever.

[dirtfab]

Alex,

I thought one of the big advantages of the 4BT over the 6BT was not needing to redo the firewall. Could you have mounted the 4BT farther forward? I'm still on the fence on what I want to run in mine- 4BT, 6BT with major mods, or a late model Hemi. I'm kinda leaning towards the Hemi, but I wanted to see what type of MPG you get. I'm still in the parts collecting phase until my shop is done. I hope to have a functioning shop by the 1st of the year.

When looking for Carryalls on CL, I have seen 3 converted to pickups so far. I committed to buying one as it still had some good parts left including a good front floor pan which I desperately need. This last one that is currently listed is just horrible. I leave you with these...
http://i133

[Bruce in BC]

that is sad

Makes me wonder what was there before the truck was cut up. Ninety percent of rat rods look like trash rods. This is one of the latter. Once created it is their last step to the crusher. Most folks have little interest in a old rusted body tossed on to a S10 frame.
After said trash rod gets pulled over a number of times and asked for a VI the vehicle gets parked or impounded. A few months later it is sold as scrap.

That vehicle is really lame. A rat rod belly button- it looks like most of the hacked Dodges that I see. No character. I do like the patina - but I suspect momma nature had the biggest roll in that.

Gotta point the chimney today. Not much time to play in the garage.