Outdoor work lighting

[Gordon Maney]

I would like to be able to do thinning in my reforestation project, have lots of it to do, so I consider it would be good to have some sort of light to use so I could chainsaw in the dark. These trees are 20' tall, on average, so there is no big risk of being crushed by falling trees. I just need light to saw by.

Thoughts on something modestly priced to support such an activity?

[712edf]

How far away from your power source?

[Ron in Indiana]

Well first I would advise against cutting in the dark even with a light. With everything that goes on with falling a tree you need as much natural light as possible. To many shadows and dark spots for trippers to hide not to mention the widow makers hanging out in the tops. You've got Daylight Savings Time out there right? ha ha What species of trees are you cutting?

[Gordon Maney]

How far away from your power source?

Depending on where I cut, anywhere from 250 to 800 feet.

[Gordon Maney]

Well first I would advise against cutting in the dark even with a light. With everything that goes on with falling a tree you need as much natural light as possible. To many shadows and dark spots for trippers to hide not to mention the widow makers hanging out in the tops. You've got Daylight Savings Time out there right? ha ha What species of trees are you cutting?

White pine and Scotch pine, typical diameter at ground level is about ten inches.

[712edf]

Depending on where I cut, anywhere from 250 to 800 feet.

Assuming you are wanting an electric light source, I see 2 main options:A) A 110volt type light such as those 500W to 1500W halogen worklights used in contruction. This would require a portable generator.B) A 12volt type light powered by a vehicle. This would require being able to get the vehicle near enough to the worksite (a challenge in wooded areas), yet not too close to avoid possible damage to the vehicle....I guess what i'm getting at is what powers the lights determines what light "fixture" options are available to you....Military generator/light set-ups are an excellant yet costly option...Then there's the idea by Gen. Sherman, use the previously cut trees as fuel for a bonfire to provide lighting for the cutting of more trees...

[712edf]

White pine and Scotch pine, typical diameter at ground level is about ten inches.

Aren't those the ones that smell so good?

[Kevin Mienke]

Check this link. These lights are heavy duty and provide great light. They are what we use on the fireground.
http://www.mtfiresafety.com/fire_lighting.htm

Go to your local FD and ask for a demonstration. Most are glad to oblige.

I think you will be impressed.

[monkeymissile]

Hi Gordon,
I'd probably use at least 3 compact fluorescent worklights arranged in a way to eliminate any shadows while you're cutting. Personally I'd stay away from the high wattage halogen since they get so hot and could be a fire hazard. The only issue is if you plan to cut when it's cold out; the light output from fluorescent drops along with the temperature. Then I'd advocate for 100-150w metal halide fixtures (more light for fewer watts and less heat).
I saw that Northern Tool has many options for cheap. The extension cord/string lights could be a nifty option, especially if outfitted with the self-ballasted CFLs.
Be careful whatever you do!

[Gordon Maney]

Aren't those the ones that smell so good?

Yes....

[Gordon Maney]

Check this link. These lights are heavy duty and provide great light. They are what we use on the fireground.
http://www.mtfiresafety.com/fire_lighting.htm

Go to your local FD and ask for a demonstration. Most are glad to oblige.

I think you will be impressed.

What wattage do you use? Do you use the ones that sit on the ground, or do you use the ones on a tripod supported mast? Pretty neat, if somewhat spendy.

[Gordon Maney]

Hi Gordon,
I'd probably use at least 3 compact fluorescent worklights arranged in a way to eliminate any shadows while you're cutting. Personally I'd stay away from the high wattage halogen since they get so hot and could be a fire hazard. The only issue is if you plan to cut when it's cold out; the light output from fluorescent drops along with the temperature. Then I'd advocate for 100-150w metal halide fixtures (more light for fewer watts and less heat).
I saw that Northern Tool has many options for cheap. The extension cord/string lights could be a nifty option, especially if outfitted with the self-ballasted CFLs.
Be careful whatever you do!

I think your multiple lights to eliminate shadows thought is important.

[Kevin Mienke]

We use the small hand held fixtures with a junction box to light the interior of a home. The trucks are equipped with the tower lights for lighting the exterior. Both the hand held and tower lights are 1000 watt metal halide and use the trucks generator for their supply source. They light a yard like nothing I've ever seen.

Ours are made by Akron Brass Co. which is a supplier of many sturdy and reliable firefighting tools.

[74w300uteline]

use an axe

Sorry I couldnt resist.

[Kevin Mienke]

I am recalling an old thread entitled "Blue Jeans". It seems you had a chainsaw incident that resulted in your buying some bright orange chaps. If we take a look at this very old thread, it may shed some light (pardon the pun) on your current issue.