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  • #31
    Originally posted by gmharris View Post
    Yep, Charles, some very good points. Especially, the infrared thermometer and not trusting the dash temperature gauge.

    Harbor Freight has some fairly cheap infrared thermometers which seem to do the job. An infrared thermometer can be used for other things such as diagnosing a dragging brake shoe or a cylinder that's not firing.

    Also, don't always assume that just because something has been done, that it was done right.

    I had an overheating problem on one of my cars I could not solve. A "rebuilt" radiator had been installed, so I didn't suspect the radiator. After much frustration, I installed a new radiator and that solved the problem.

    One of my Power Wagons has the same problem with a gummed up block drain that you mentioned. I will go back and try to do a better job of cleaning it out.

    I wonder if chemically cleaning the block of rust and sediment will get rid of the gum?

    Thanks Charles, for letting us benefit from your experience with Power Wagons.
    Amen on not making assumptions as to things being done right. That is the case all to often these days.

    Concerning the block drain being plugged, it can be a minor issue or quite serious. The drain port is the lowest part of the block water jacket. Sediment will start to accumulate at the lowest point. It just keeps building over time, it could be just a little at the port or several inches deep seriously hendering the coolant from getting to critical lower areas. If coolant can not reach the lower areas of the block a few inches above the port, you can get some serious heating issues going on quickly. I've had lots of folks ask the question, why can't I get water to drain from the block drain cock? It is a frequent issue. I know of no chemical cleaning agent that will handle the job of unplugging it.

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    • #32
      GMHARRIS:

      "About using distilled water, is there any real evidence (other than anecdotal) that it reduces corrosion? If so, why don't vehicles come from the factory with distilled water? I doubt that the cost would be significant."

      I use distilled water because the tap water here in So Cal is pretty "hard", and regular bottled water (Arrowhead) is filtered but not as clean as distilled. I believe "deionized" water is the type that is supposed to reduce corrosion, but I haven't ever worried about that. I had 313,000 miles on my '90 Dakota when I sold it running (passed smog test the first time) and never had to replace the radiator or have it rodded-out; always used distilled water with Prestone antifreeze.

      The belt on my '41 is new, and I can turn the crankshaft by pulling on the fan. Working graveyard shift this week (not much gets done); will look at the problem next week.

      THANKS ALL

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