Design problem

[Gordon Maney]

I have a ballast plate I mount on the 3-point of my tractor. It is to provide traction weight when doing snow removal or heavy loader work. When not used I had been leaning it against a tree, chaining it to the tree. This is somewhat dangerous and also bad for the tree. The plate as weighted is about 1,200 lbs.

I considered setting a heavy post, but the post could not be moved, should i ever want to. I realize I prefer a portable, fabricated stand that would provide a stable base for outdoor storage.

I would like to make it from square or rectangular tubing [4x4x1/4 or 2x6x1/4, as examples], use a minimum of tubing, and reflect an elegance of design simplicity. I would also like to be able to pick it up and lift it with the tractor to move it if so desired. Open ends of tubing to be capped to prevent nesting wasps.

[The top image shows the plate mounted on the tractor; the lower shows it parked by the tree.]

[old red]

Interesting tractor weight. Did you make it that way so to give you maximum maneuverability?

We have 4 x 4 x 3/16 wall tubing in our non-stock inventory along with some plate items.

Would you want to pick up the stand with the 3 point, with a chain or by fork?

A simple design thought comes to mind is a post welded to the center of a plate with a cap welded on it that includes loop for chain.

From a safety stand point setting the weight on the plate and chaining to the post will be safe as the weight adds ballast to the post & plate.

[712edf]

So this stand will not be on a concrete surface nor to be moved (rolled) by hand, but by tractor forks?

I imagine a stand that looks like two "L"s placed back to back, actually four because it'd need to be three or so feet wide. The base tubes would be rectangular & be where the tractor forks would go when moving it.

Bucky

[Gordon Maney]

Interesting tractor weight. Did you make it that way so to give you maximum maneuverability?

Yes, for backing into trees; ballast to be least obstructive.

Would you want to pick up the stand with the 3 point, with a chain or by fork?

By [2] chains hanging from loader bucket.

A simple design thought comes to mind is a post welded to the center of a plate with a cap welded on it that includes loop for chain.

That would take a big plate.

[Cheyenne Dave]

Seeing as you would only be moving it with the tractor, why not hang it from chains on the wall of one of the outbuildings. No welding required, just the thoughtful placement of anchors. It would take up the least amount of space as well.

cd

[dougdodgeman]

How about a pair of "kick stand" legs, so you can drop it anywhere? Doug

[Cheyenne Dave]

How about a pair of "kick stand" legs, so you can drop it anywhere? Doug

Better yet.

cd

[Bob Thompson]

How about a pair of "kick stand" legs, so you can drop it anywhere? Doug

You would really need just the one, attached to the top pivot point .

By the way Gordon, I've just sent you an Email.

[Gordon Maney]

I think you can best engage the three point when the plate is vertically oriented.

[Gordon Maney]

My initial idea was to fabricate a letter H from two pieces of 4x4x1/4 wall pieces of square tubing and one piece of 2x6x1/4 wall tubing. This large letter H would lie flat on the ground.

The piece of plate that is the ballast would stand on its lower edge on the cross bar of the H, vertically oriented as it would be in use. The horizontal crossbar of the H would be the rectangular tubing.

Pieces of flat bar, plate, or other suitable material would define a groove into which the ballast plate would be retained. Two or three pins would pass through the ballast plate and the pieces of flat bar or plate, preventing them from separating. The ballast plate wuld engage said groove or pocket approximaotely 6 in. for good stability.

At that point, the ballast would stand on the H shaped base. Adding some pins, pinning the ballast plate to the H shaped base, would allow the entire assembly to be picked up by the upper end of the ballast plate.

[Gordon Maney]

When the ballast plate is parked on the stand, vertically oriented, the tractor would back up to it and engage, then make all connections. Once connections were made, the pins connecting the bottom of the ballast plate to the H frame's engagement slot would be pulled and tractor could raise ballast free of the H frame. The H frame would remain behind on the ground.

Imagine the ballast plate positioned securely in place behind the tractor as shown here. With this method there is no need to have the ballast plate in a dangerously out of plumb orientation, endangering any operator[s].

The ballast and attached H frame could be lifted and moved if so desired by the loader. A rear mounted, 84 in. mower would provide suitable ballast for that task.

[old red]

When the ballast plate is parked on the stand, vertically oriented, the tractor would back up to it and engage, then make all connections. Once connections were made, the pins connecting the bottom of the ballast plate to the H frame's engagement slot would be pulled and tractor could raise ballast free of the H frame. The H frame would remain behind on the ground.

Imagine the ballast plate positioned securely in place behind the tractor as shown here. With this method there is no need to have the ballast plate in a dangerously out of plumb orientation, endangering any operator[s].

The ballast and attached H frame could be lifted and moved if so desired by the loader. A rear mounted, 84 in. mower would provide suitable ballast for that task.

How tight would the fit have to be - between the H frame 6" deep engagement slot and the ballast plate to keep the ballast plate plum?

[Gordon Maney]

It wouldn't have to be dead plumb; 1/8 - 1/4 in. would be fine.

[Desoto61]

My only problem with the H-frame is that you have a very large moment arm held in place by a very small area of the plate. Should be OK as long as the arms of the H are long enough. A trough the length of the cross bar would increase the support area and the pins can't hurt, but the higher you run the sides the more stable the plate will be.

Edit: You also will have to try and hit a very small target when you go to put it back, since neither the stand or the plate are probably easily moved by hand. If you make the slot too big the plate will get too much room to move, which could be dangerous.

[Gordon Maney]

My only problem with the H-frame is that you have a very large moment arm held in place by a very small area of the plate. Should be OK as long as the arms of the H are long enough. A trough the length of the cross bar would increase the support area and the pins can't hurt, but the higher you run the sides the more stable the plate will be.

Edit: You also will have to try and hit a very small target when you go to put it back, since neither the stand or the plate are probably easily moved by hand. If you make the slot too big the plate will get too much room to move, which could be dangerous.

All good thoughts here.