My 1949 B-1 PW Project

[mageew]

Delrin Strips

I dug up the receipt last night- it was Delrin (which is tougher than UHMW). In 2009, I paid ~$35 for enough to do 1 spring at $1 per foot. Still forgot to bring it in- I must be demented.

I think I found the Delrin strips at McMaster - the 2" wide black strips, .031 thickness are item number "2638T22" and, you're right - it's about $1 per foot.

I'm interested to know what thickness you used & how you held the strips in place while you assembled the leaves. Did you use adhesive?

[maineSS]

Finally remembered to bring the reciept with me- in Nov '09 I bought 25 ft of black .031" x 2" delrin strip for $27.25, which was enough for one front spring with a little left over. Shipping was extra. PN is 2638T22, selling for $1.09 per ft at that time. I cut each strip to match the upper leaf it bears against, starting from the bottom leaf up. Didn't use any adhesive, just cut each strip with straight aviation snips after scribing the leaf outline, and let the bolts and spring clips keep them in place. You have to align them a bit as you tighten the bolts, but they stayed mostly in place. Don't think adhesive would last long under the movement and pressure as the spring flexes.

[QuantumJo]

I've become no fan of Power Coating as well.

My workplace had some bobbins powdercoated- wasn't impressed as it chips right off.

I'm in the same camp. once the powder coating chips, and it will chip, it will start to flake. I have had outstanding sucess with Chassis Saver. http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
if it chips it can very quickly be fixed with some sand paper and a paint brush. Powder Coating is a much more difficult to repair. I used Chassis Saver on the front axle of my 2000 Cherokee Sport. It still looks great after years of Buffalo, NY salt laden winter roads. For me powder coat headers.... yes, frame and axles, no way.

[Blaszer]

I just did my whole chassis on my 53 project with chassis saver...That stuff is amazing...I sprayed the last 2 coats, but brushed the first 2 and it self levels with no brush marks! Just be sure to wear gloves, It doesnt come off of ANYTHING too well, at least not or a couple weeks...(I'm from just south of Buffalo too)

[Charles Talbert]

My workplace had some bobbins powdercoated- wasn't impressed as it chips right off. I'd ask around about epoxy or two-part urethane. Surface prep is really important- follow the paint maker's directions exactly, you'd be surprised how many people assume coatings are all the same- they most certainly are not! Charles at M37 Rebuild might have better insight on what holds up in the real world, depending on what you plan to do, and what sort of climate you'll be seeing.

Preparation is 99.9% of a job that will hold up well regardless of which finishing system you will be using.

In regards to knuckle housings or any other castings of this type that have been subjected to grease and oil for years, the oils that have impregnated the castings must be completely removed prior to coating. A good powder coater will clean, blast, and run the housing through the curing oven to cook out all remaining oil from the casting before he even thinks about applying any coating. Powder coating done right using quality materials and technique is the toughest, longest lasting coating for frame components and casting that we have found. The folks who talk about easy chip off and such; well you just have not experienced the use of powder coating done right. I know this because I went through 2 coating contractors before using the one we have used now for several years and have no plans of leaving. The first 2 were all about running the stuff through hurriedly and turning a quick buck and not at all concerned about taking the necessary steps to be assured of the best quality job.

It's hard these days to get contractors to spend the time to do it right; then you get the easy chip off of the finish and all sorts of other issues that have put a bad taste about powder coating in the mouths of some. Our first 2 contractors just wrote us off as too hard to please; but if better is possible, good just isn't enough around here. The one we use now appreciates our business and the fact that we want things done the best they can be. He says it compliments both our business and his. People have told him he must be good if he can please M Series Rebuild, and that it's proof positive to others that he is good at his trade because we continue to use him. It's been a win-win situation for both of us.

Don't be fooled about powder coating because you may have seen a job that came out wrong. You need to pay attention to how it is being done, and demand it be done right. There is also a huge difference in powder types; just like wet coating paint, there is the cheap stuff and the premium quality. If your contractor is using the cheapest powder he can acquire, there is no need for you to expect a top quality, long lasting job. The best powder along with the best technique of prep, application, curing, etc is what makes a quality job.

[PWFFnut]

The best place to be

It really was a great looking truck to start with. My original plan was just to repair the engine and have fun with it for awhile but I just couldn't resist. It may seem ridiculous to some but I figured, the longer I wait to restore it, the harder it would be to find parts.

You are in the place to be for help & advice the members here on this form are very knowledgeable and helpful they have helped Me a lot in the past I ow many thanks to all who have shared so much info and know how.I think I should have done a resto on My truck a long time a go I would have a lot less rust to deal with

I wish you all the best luck with your truck