Power Wagon mud race truck build

[NakeDiesel]

This weekend, I finished up a bunch of stuff on the truck. The front and rear drive shaft loops are done and installed. I still need to make the loop for the short driveshaft between the transmission and the transfer case.
I finished up the wiring on the gauges. I'm going to have to get a new tach sensor as the one I have is shot. It's not reading most of the time now.

Topped the power steering pump off and worked the brakes and the steering to get all of the air out of the lines. The brakes are going to take some getting used too, but the truck stops.

Worked on the lower grill piece, and think I have it modified enough to make it work, but won't put it on till I get a new sensor.

I will say, bending a loop out of 2" wide 1/4" strap on a vice is a pain in the ***. My loops aren't quite concentric, but they will work.

Cut the door windows out today and stuck them in the vent windows with clear silicone. I left them where I could open them at the present time, but think I'm going to end up just sealing them up. The drivers side is a pain to open and close and can't get it closed fully from inside the cab.

Took the truck out of the shop to load it up this evening to haul it to Broken Arrow tomorrow and took it down the road. The drivers side door wouldn't stay closed and the truck kept dying on me. After a bit of testing, figured out the shut off solenoid wasn't staying up. So I will have to look into that this week and get it figured out. I've had problems with it occasionally not going up. I can force it up once and then it works again. The not holding is a new issue that has just occurred.

I fixed the door issue. Had to pull the door off with the truck sitting on the trailer and bend the lower hinge brace forward about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch to make it right. Once I did that, the door shut and closed good. I've knocked some paint off because of this on the lower edge of the door so I will have to touch it up tomorrow.

Anyway, the truck is loaded and ready to haul tomorrow to work and then on to get the logo's put on it. I'm going to stop by the car wash in the morning and give it a good rinse off.

[NakeDiesel]

[NakeDiesel]

[NakeDiesel]

[NakeDiesel]

[NakeDiesel]

[NakeDiesel]

I plan on picking up a pto cable at the local napa tomorrow and fixing this issue once an for all. I'll then rip out all the wiring for the solenoid.

Today all I accomplished was getting the stickers put on the truck. Oh and I labeled the cut off switch.

[NakeDiesel]

Today, didn't get a lot done. I bent the upper and lower halves of the loop for the center driveshaft. I need to bend the larger one just a hair more to get it lined up with the other one. Tomorrow I will figure out how

I'm going to attach it to the transmission cross member. Will probably just drill two holes and make a plat that goes between the transmission mount and the cross member.

I also picked up a PTO cable at the local napa and started getting it installed. I have it figured out, just need to weld part of the clamp to the existing bracket and then get the cable cut off and go from there.

Also had the kids clay bar the truck and do a little polishing on it.

[NakeDiesel]

tonight I worked on the 3rd driveshaft loop and have the support braces in place and should get it finished tomorrow.

I did finish up the manual fuel shutoff cable and tested it tonight.

[Tweety]

I'm happy to see your build coming together for your upcoming race season.

I'm curious about using a mechanical fuel shut off, which seems in conflict with having a battery shut off. If the safety staff responded to in incident with your truck, and hit the master battery cut off, the engine can keep on running.

[NakeDiesel]

Where I put the mechanical shutoff cable is at the injection pump. That is just for normal start/stop of the engine. The rear power shutoff will kill the engine as it cuts the fuel to the engine at the rear of the truck by shutting off the fuel pump.

[Gordon Maney]

This quite a ride you have taken us on!

[Tom Petroff]

Where I put the mechanical shutoff cable is at the injection pump. That is just for normal start/stop of the engine. The rear power shutoff will kill the engine as it cuts the fuel to the engine at the rear of the truck by shutting off the fuel pump.

So it will continue to run for a short time? Long enough to possibly hurt someone in a emergency situation.

I think I would have to rethink this.
TGP

[Tweety]

Where I put the mechanical shutoff cable is at the injection pump. That is just for normal start/stop of the engine. The rear power shutoff will kill the engine as it cuts the fuel to the engine at the rear of the truck by shutting off the fuel pump.

Fair enough. My diesel is all mechanical as far as the pump goes, there is no electric lift pump.

[NakeDiesel]

The shutoff switch is in our rules because 99.9% of the vehicles are running pump or race gasoline which is very flammable and not running diesel that is only combustable. They won't get to the switch till the vehicle is already stopped, hence it isn't going anywhere at that point.

My truck caught on fire the second race last year when a bearing in my turbo went out and the oil hitting the hot exhaust (2000 degrees) caught my carbon fiber stack on fire. I'm back to running all steel exhaust now.

Finished up the 3rd driveshaft loop this evening and tested the truck.
Bolted on the front lower grill.

Still haven't replaced the tach sensor, couldn't find one in Tulsa Weds.
Will get one ordered from Summit and get it replaced. Not a huge deal. I don't look at it really when I'm racing, it's just nice to have when I'm looking at the incab video of the gauges and seeing how the truck performed. I shift mostly by feel while going through the pit.

Windows were cleaned by the kids tonight as well and we dug all the crap we take to the races out of their various hiding spots they were stored in over the winter so they are ready to load up Sat. morning.

Only thing I have left to do is take it into the tire shop in the morning and have the front drivers side tire unmounted and the mud/bead cleaned out of it so it will hold air longer than a day or two.