Bearings and races inside differential for a 1950 Power Wagon

[CRudolph]

Wow. Me and a friend too a 2 1/4 inch socket that would fit in the center of the ring but welded 4 tabs on the outer surface of socket. Used and electric impact and it came right out. We were looking at all options and had thought about what you did until he came up with the socket idea. As long as they work we can continue in our endeavors. Thanks so much for the info. Craig

[48powerwagon]

Craig, I ended up using a piece of pipe, drilling holes and welding a cut off bolt in it for my tool to remove the differential nut. Mine is crusty centered axle that I'm rebuilding for mine. It took a pipe wrench and cheater pipe to break it loose. Alan 20200129_033344.png

[CRudolph]

Yes sir, it is a bit slow. I only went to 4.30 gears since I’m re-powering to 318. Had I stayed with the original 251 flathead (which runs and drove the truck) before disassembly. Steve at VPW told me with the re-power I would be fine and being in a relatively flat area (30 miles south of Dallas TX) I should be ok.

I also switched to a centered rear end I obtained from Dave at DC trucks as I didn’t want to chance breakfast no an axel with the re-power.

Hopefully i I can get some work done this week.

Thanks,
Craig

[Karl Kostman]

Hey Craig when I figured out my ring and pinion were going to need to be replaced I talked to vintage Power Wagon and I was thinking of going to the 4.30 gears instead of replacing them with the original 4.89 and Steve talked me out of it after considering the tall NDT tires I am running he questioned if I had enough HP with the 230 ci engine to pull the gears, I am used to lots of Military trucks so I said just go with the 4.89 set. I had a talk with Dave at DC truck parts and got all my bearings and races ordered from him on friday so should have them by the end of next week which should give me enough time to prep the diff housings and axle housing for powder coating before reassembly. I need to check on my new leaf springs for the front axle on Monday and if they are getting close they will need to be powder coated prior to installation then I can at least get axles and tires under the truck and tear into the transfer case, transmission and PTO. Get those inspected and replace what needs to be replaced and all new seals then I can start prepping for installation in the chassis. Its coming along just seems a bit slow at times Craig!
Karl

[CRudolph]

Hi All:
If your looking for a number for Dave Cirillo at DC truck parts mobile 541-941-3162. Office/shop 541-772-8992.

Tom thanks for sharing the info regarding Bob.

[Tom Petroff]

Hey Tom Petroff I have sent Dave 2 emails asking availability for the bearings I am looking for do you by any chance have a phone # for this fellow so I can talk to him directly and order what I need hopefully?

Thanks Tom!
Karl

Sorry to just see this Karl

All I have is his eBay store link which I posted earlier, But I did find his web page, No phone but e-mail link.
Did you try through eBay or his web page?

I never had any problem buying from his eBay store or contacting him from there.

Web Page http://www.jobrated.com/index.html

Also forgot to mention Bob Stahl in MA.
He's very knowledgeable and rebuilt many of these Diff's and I bought
Many parts from him in the past.

Veteran Vehicles, https://www.veteranvehicles.com/

Bob Stahl, 215 Everett Street Wrentham, MA 02093 (508)384-7698

Tom

[CRudolph]

Hi Karl,

Working with a friend to get the ring out without destroying it. I am actually going back with 4.30 gears. Dave. DC is a good guy with tons of knowledge, like the guys a Vintage Power Wagon. Once I get the ring out I can install the races and put it back together. Any words of wisdom on making sure this is done right and adjusted properly?

Then I can move on to the front diff. I’ve taken some pics and will hopefully get some posted soon from when it was together and now down to bare frame. Just got frame back from powder coating. I probably should have thought about the power steering before the coating I’m thinking of heating and bending frame as suggested by Greg Coffin. I also obtained an under mount brake booster from Greg so I can keep the original pedals.

Take care
Craig

[Karl Kostman]

Hey Craig Good to hear your good progress is coming along, on that piece your talking about to make the special tool for I got mine off with a punch/chisel with minimal damage, its more just the need to break it lose and they come out good after that but I will also be making a tool for putting mine back together. Yesterday I was looking very hard at my ring and pinions was working on them with a wire wheel to remove and rust and unfortunately my feelings are the pitting in them is just to deep I know I am past the hardened steel level and getting into the normal/soft steel I am putting in all new bearings/races and the last thing I want to do is start having lots of metal filings screwing up all my new bearings so unfortunately I felt I had to order two complete ring and pinion sets for the truck, stayed with the same 4,89 gear ratio. I have been communicating with DC truck parts and should hopefully have some info back from him soon on the delivery time for the bearing kits for both my diffs then I can actually start putting something together for a change instead of just taking apart that will sure be nice Craig! Thanks for keeping me posted on your progress and I will do the same when I actually start making some more FORWARD PROGRESS!
Take care
Karl

[CRudolph]

Thanks Carl. I just opened up my rear diff. Everything went pretty easy. I got the 2 side bearing on and the large pinion bearing on. Now trying to find/make a tool to remove ( don’t know what it’s really called) but the nut inside the diff that holds the double race. Need a tool that has 4 outer fangs to set in the nut. At such an angle can’t get a punch in there.

If your looking for a number for Dave Cirillo at DC truck parts mobile 541-941-3162. Office/shop 541-772-8992.

Thanks Craig

[Karl Kostman]

Hey Tom Petroff I have sent Dave 2 emails asking availability for the bearings I am looking for do you by any chance have a phone # for this fellow so I can talk to him directly and order what I need hopefully?

Thanks Tom!
Karl

[Desoto61]

Those are really the only two sources for a "kit" that I know of any more. That bearing was expensive and hard to get when I was rebuilding my differentials almost 10 years ago. That's why I used a new one in my rear differential but re-used the best of the pair for my front axle.
Otherwise your best bet is to try and track down the individual bearings and races yourself through "normal" means (bearing shops, e-bay, google part # search, etc.). If the double race is being made again it's because someone like VPW is ordering enough to get someone to make them as last I heard they were discontinued by the main manufacturers, which means we're all scrambling after NOS.

[Karl Kostman]

Hey guys I need a little source assist on bearings. I tried vintage Power Wagons and they are back ordered for weeks on all the bearing and races inside the differential housing. Upon disassembly half of my bearing and races were pitted so I am going to replace them all front and rear, do you folks know where I can buy these in a kit form to include all the bearings and races I need for both diffs? I will call DC truck parts in the morning but would like to have at least a couple other options in case they cannot help me? Thanks much guys!
Karl

[Karl Kostman]

Thanks much Dave and I do agree!

[Cheyenne Dave]

Karl

I am a bit obsessive about total disassembly. There are fiber washers behind the side gears and it is very hard to evaluate those, as well as cross pin and gear bore wear without a complete tear down. Its a lot of work to go as deep as you have and not go all the way.

I wound up making my own service armature to safely and securely hold the case for this type of work. Its handy for ring gear torquing as well.

I could post some pix of mine but like most special tools, it is unique to the materials I had around in my shop. It didnt take more than an hour or so to make and now I have the tool. I'm sure you could come up with with something that would fit the bill.

Hope this helps.

CD

[Karl Kostman]

Dave thanks much for the info! I did things by the Dodge service manual but think your idea is better, of course AFTER the fact! I drilled the pins and that went fine pins came out with no damage to the case or cap. After that I made a tool that had 3 7/16 pins to go into the cap to unscrew it once I got it heated up. After heating it tried unscrewing the cap and the biggest thing I had working against me was not having a real effective way to hold center section I could hold it decent but not good enough. After some thinking I put one of the centers in my solvent tank and ran solvent through the spiders while turning them and a fair bit of old grease did come out and the gears smoothed out and became a lot smoother after this, so with that in mind tomorrow I am taking both centers to a machine shop with a big solvent tank with a shelf that moves up and down in the heated solvent, way better flow than I can get out of my wash tank. I re pinned the cap I had drilled the dowels out of and decided to go the flushing route instead of removing the cap, I had BAd visions of working on it till I wrecked something Dave the flushing then inspection then if all looks good and operated smoothly then all new bearing and races and reassembly. Dave if you see problems doing it this way please let me know if my thinking is flawed? Thanks again!
Karl