Bearings and races inside differential for a 1950 Power Wagon

[Cheyenne Dave]

Karl, in reference to the disassembly of the 3rd member case:

The three fluted dowel pins you refer to should not be drilled out. Rather, they can be driven out from the bearing-hub side of the cap. If you keep a collection of small ball-bearings, select several of a slightly smaller diameter than the dowel pins.

First, make index marks in the cap and case near one of the dowel pins. These are for reassembly alignment. Then, using an appropriate drift and one ball bearing at a time, stacked one atop another, the pins can be driven out of the case from the inside out, with no damage to the pin bore. Discard the old dowel pins.

Once the 3 pins are removed the case must be heated to allow the cap to be unscrewed. In addition to threads, the cap has an interference fit with the case, much like a ring gear on a flywheel. You will know when the case is hot enough when solder will melt on the side. Concentrate on heating the case at the seam with the cap rather than the cap itself, being careful not to concentrate the flame in any one place.

Reassembly is much easier and faster as the case will heat faster without the cap's thermal mass. Tighten the cap until you line it up with your index mark and the 3 dowel holes and install 3 new fluted dowel pins.

CD

Good luck!

[Karl Kostman]

Thanks Tom for the info its always good to have a few options!
Karl

[Tom Petroff]

Dave @DC truck parts offers a complete bearing kit for most every gear box including Diff's.
He was or still is the most reasonable.
That double race is getting hard to find.

I think vintage still has some but not sure.

All I have is Dave's ebay store link where he sells his parts.
He does have a email but I don't have it handy at the Moment.

https://www.ebay.com/str/dctruckparts

Tom

[Karl Kostman]

Hello Craig thanks much for your response to my post! Taking the diff apart was not a big deal, first make sure your pinion nut is loose then take the locks off the top of the main hold downs for the diff, remove the 4 main nuts then unscrew the big inside nutts on each side, they are the ones that intersect with the locks you took out earlier. Take a brass hammer and tap the sides of the mains and pull the caps off, then you can lift the entire diff assembly out of the housing. Then take the pinion nutt and driveshaft connect point off the shaft and the entire pinion assembly comes out. The pinion seal can be kind of a bugger, I drilled a hole in mine and screwed a big screw into the seal and used a slide hammer to remove it, easy at that point. In washing off bearings and wiping off races I noticed some pitting on at least 2 but not all, I removed all the races from the housing and cleaned all the parts for further inspection, half the bearings and races were pitted and will be replaced. When you get going on yours if you find you need parts let me know, a buddy of mine found everything including the pinion seal for substantially less than half of what others were selling them for, I will forward that info to you if you need it. My next move is to take the diff apart to inspect the spider gears inside, that will be a little of some new stuff because I need to drill out the 3 steel dowels that hold the cap on it? It will get done Craig. If I run into any trouble I will let you know before you tie into that part.
Good luck and hope this helps you Craig!
Karl

[CRudolph]

KArl:

Try Vintage Power Wagon or DC Truck Part. About to ter down my diffs on '63 FFPW. How difficult is this project?

Thanks,
Craig

[Karl Kostman]

Hello folks
As the heading states I am working on the diffs on a 50 Power Wagon and pulled a differential apart this morning checking bearing and races and found a couple pitted races and bearings the one that I have a question on is a DOUBLE race double bearing setup the race number is 44363-D and the bearing numbers are 44143 everything is Timken but my real question is finding a source for the double race for these bearings? The race is also drilled between the bearings to facilitate oil flow between the bearings. Any ideas guys on where to source these parts would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks much
Karl