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Bearings and races inside differential for a 1950 Power Wagon

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  • Bearings and races inside differential for a 1950 Power Wagon

    Hello folks
    As the heading states I am working on the diffs on a 50 Power Wagon and pulled a differential apart this morning checking bearing and races and found a couple pitted races and bearings the one that I have a question on is a DOUBLE race double bearing setup the race number is 44363-D and the bearing numbers are 44143 everything is Timken but my real question is finding a source for the double race for these bearings? The race is also drilled between the bearings to facilitate oil flow between the bearings. Any ideas guys on where to source these parts would be greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks much
    Karl

  • #2
    KArl:

    Try Vintage Power Wagon or DC Truck Part. About to ter down my diffs on '63 FFPW. How difficult is this project?

    Thanks,
    Craig

    Comment


    • #3
      Hello Craig thanks much for your response to my post! Taking the diff apart was not a big deal, first make sure your pinion nut is loose then take the locks off the top of the main hold downs for the diff, remove the 4 main nuts then unscrew the big inside nutts on each side, they are the ones that intersect with the locks you took out earlier. Take a brass hammer and tap the sides of the mains and pull the caps off, then you can lift the entire diff assembly out of the housing. Then take the pinion nutt and driveshaft connect point off the shaft and the entire pinion assembly comes out. The pinion seal can be kind of a bugger, I drilled a hole in mine and screwed a big screw into the seal and used a slide hammer to remove it, easy at that point. In washing off bearings and wiping off races I noticed some pitting on at least 2 but not all, I removed all the races from the housing and cleaned all the parts for further inspection, half the bearings and races were pitted and will be replaced. When you get going on yours if you find you need parts let me know, a buddy of mine found everything including the pinion seal for substantially less than half of what others were selling them for, I will forward that info to you if you need it. My next move is to take the diff apart to inspect the spider gears inside, that will be a little of some new stuff because I need to drill out the 3 steel dowels that hold the cap on it? It will get done Craig. If I run into any trouble I will let you know before you tie into that part.
      Good luck and hope this helps you Craig!
      Karl

      Comment


      • #4
        Dave @DC truck parts offers a complete bearing kit for most every gear box including Diff's.
        He was or still is the most reasonable.
        That double race is getting hard to find.

        I think vintage still has some but not sure.

        All I have is Dave's ebay store link where he sells his parts.
        He does have a email but I don't have it handy at the Moment.

        https://www.ebay.com/str/dctruckparts

        Tom
        DC truck Parts is JOBRATED.CO have 40 + years in specialized knowledge of Dodge & Jeep military civilian vehicle from the 1940's to 1980's 2wd & 4wd &6wd New Process Transmission & Transfer, & Axles, Winches & Power Take Offs & Warner Gear Transmission T84 T90 ,Dana Spice 18 Transfer case
        WDX & Misc. Pics.
        http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010
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        • #5
          Thanks Tom for the info its always good to have a few options!
          Karl

          Comment


          • #6
            Karl, in reference to the disassembly of the 3rd member case:

            The three fluted dowel pins you refer to should not be drilled out. Rather, they can be driven out from the bearing-hub side of the cap. If you keep a collection of small ball-bearings, select several of a slightly smaller diameter than the dowel pins.

            First, make index marks in the cap and case near one of the dowel pins. These are for reassembly alignment. Then, using an appropriate drift and one ball bearing at a time, stacked one atop another, the pins can be driven out of the case from the inside out, with no damage to the pin bore. Discard the old dowel pins.

            Once the 3 pins are removed the case must be heated to allow the cap to be unscrewed. In addition to threads, the cap has an interference fit with the case, much like a ring gear on a flywheel. You will know when the case is hot enough when solder will melt on the side. Concentrate on heating the case at the seam with the cap rather than the cap itself, being careful not to concentrate the flame in any one place.

            Reassembly is much easier and faster as the case will heat faster without the cap's thermal mass. Tighten the cap until you line it up with your index mark and the 3 dowel holes and install 3 new fluted dowel pins.

            CD

            Good luck!
            1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
            1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
            2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
            1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
            1954 Ford 860 tractor
            1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
            UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

            Comment


            • #7
              Dave thanks much for the info! I did things by the Dodge service manual but think your idea is better, of course AFTER the fact! I drilled the pins and that went fine pins came out with no damage to the case or cap. After that I made a tool that had 3 7/16 pins to go into the cap to unscrew it once I got it heated up. After heating it tried unscrewing the cap and the biggest thing I had working against me was not having a real effective way to hold center section I could hold it decent but not good enough. After some thinking I put one of the centers in my solvent tank and ran solvent through the spiders while turning them and a fair bit of old grease did come out and the gears smoothed out and became a lot smoother after this, so with that in mind tomorrow I am taking both centers to a machine shop with a big solvent tank with a shelf that moves up and down in the heated solvent, way better flow than I can get out of my wash tank. I re pinned the cap I had drilled the dowels out of and decided to go the flushing route instead of removing the cap, I had BAd visions of working on it till I wrecked something Dave the flushing then inspection then if all looks good and operated smoothly then all new bearing and races and reassembly. Dave if you see problems doing it this way please let me know if my thinking is flawed? Thanks again!
              Karl

              Comment


              • #8
                Karl

                I am a bit obsessive about total disassembly. There are fiber washers behind the side gears and it is very hard to evaluate those, as well as cross pin and gear bore wear without a complete tear down. Its a lot of work to go as deep as you have and not go all the way.

                I wound up making my own service armature to safely and securely hold the case for this type of work. Its handy for ring gear torquing as well.

                I could post some pix of mine but like most special tools, it is unique to the materials I had around in my shop. It didnt take more than an hour or so to make and now I have the tool. I'm sure you could come up with with something that would fit the bill.

                Hope this helps.

                CD
                1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
                1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
                2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
                1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
                1954 Ford 860 tractor
                1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
                UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks much Dave and I do agree!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey guys I need a little source assist on bearings. I tried vintage Power Wagons and they are back ordered for weeks on all the bearing and races inside the differential housing. Upon disassembly half of my bearing and races were pitted so I am going to replace them all front and rear, do you folks know where I can buy these in a kit form to include all the bearings and races I need for both diffs? I will call DC truck parts in the morning but would like to have at least a couple other options in case they cannot help me? Thanks much guys!
                    Karl

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Those are really the only two sources for a "kit" that I know of any more. That bearing was expensive and hard to get when I was rebuilding my differentials almost 10 years ago. That's why I used a new one in my rear differential but re-used the best of the pair for my front axle.
                      Otherwise your best bet is to try and track down the individual bearings and races yourself through "normal" means (bearing shops, e-bay, google part # search, etc.). If the double race is being made again it's because someone like VPW is ordering enough to get someone to make them as last I heard they were discontinued by the main manufacturers, which means we're all scrambling after NOS.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Tom Petroff I have sent Dave 2 emails asking availability for the bearings I am looking for do you by any chance have a phone # for this fellow so I can talk to him directly and order what I need hopefully?

                        Thanks Tom!
                        Karl

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