I Need Another Chain Saw

[dr9487]

Years ago when I used a saw a lot I had the old McCulloch model 45 and a big David Bradley that were both excellent saws. Now I don't use a saw much, I have a Poulan with 16" bar. Its done me a good job for several years.

[JimmieD]

In regard to bar and chain size don't let that influence your decision. In my saw collection I have Pro Macs, Pioneer and Homelite all of which can easily swing a 60" bar, and a few that can handle a 72". When you take a powerful saw and put a shorter blade on it you get: the same powerful saw, working with far less effort.

If you buy a Pro model that can take a 24"-32" bar and hang a smaller bar on it, say a 16", it will be performing effortlessly for many a year to come. My Pro Mac 800 or Super Pro 80 can both handlle a 60" bar with ease all day long, even cutting oak, but with a 24 they're phenomenal. It usually flat amazes guys with their brand new $900+ 36" inch saw that a 35 year old saw half the cut size is double cutting to their stacks! [It's all about applied torque ha haha]

You might want to look into some of the newer safety gear too, as things have changed there as well. Kevlar cut-proof pants and the like can save life and limb!
JimmieD

[bosco]

I haven't made it to the dealer yet, but I did look at the Stihl website. That MS260 looks like a great saw. I also looked at the safety gear available these days. How things have changed. The chaps look like something I also would like to invest in .... any comments on them?

I have a few acres myself and my first task with the new saw would be to clear some over grown fence lines. There are several trees in the fence line that need to go, especially the "bodark". They are extremely hard and tough, and have many thorns. They were once used for fence post and at one time archery bows. It will take a good saw to tackle these trees. I will also put the old M37 to use on this project as well. She'll be pulling the old fence post so I can set new ones and I'll also give her the chance to pull a stump or two.

Thanks again for the info ya'll have provided.

[Charles Talbert]

Chaps; invaluable

Originally posted by bosco
I haven't made it to the dealer yet, but I did look at the Stihl website. That MS260 looks like a great saw. I also looked at the safety gear available these days. How things have changed. The chaps look like something I also would like to invest in .... any comments on them?

I have a few acres myself and my first task with the new saw would be to clear some over grown fence lines. There are several trees in the fence line that need to go, especially the "bodark". They are extremely hard and tough, and have many thorns. They were once used for fence post and at one time archery bows. It will take a good saw to tackle these trees. I will also put the old M37 to use on this project as well. She'll be pulling the old fence post so I can set new ones and I'll also give her the chance to pull a stump or two.

Thanks again for the info ya'll have provided.

I've seen several cases where chaps saved people from serious injury. Didn't always prevent slight injury, but 1 could just imagine the seriousness if the person hadn't had them at all. They are a very worthwhile investment.

[JimmieD]

Regarding that bodark, once used for archery bows. There are two most common injuries in the woods: first, a falling tree; second a snag above causing the bottom to kick out unexpectedly below, plus that then falling tree.

The third most common is from downed or bent trunks and branches under compression. A guy is in the habit of always cutting from the top, and once it cuts through he finds a madly spinning chain suddenly headed for his noggin, at release of compression in wood! Plan each cut logically and from a mechanical perspective and you'll have a lot more body parts at the end of the day.

It can be good to first make a partial cut from the bottom, to reduce compression pressures, then followed by a careful cut on top to let it break in two. No, it doesn't eliminate the danger, but it reduces it some. Multiple cuts in terms of simple mechanical priciples can save life and limb, and I ain't talking about firewood limbs there!

There was an excellent book, maybe by Husqvarna, available in local libraries. I had no idea there was so much of a science to wood cutting! Might look for it, and all the rest of you guys that cut your own, as it is a wealth of information and practical safety tips.
JimmieD

[MoparNorm]

Just about any....

...piece of wood in the air, but especially snags, are best cut from the bottom first, about 1/3 of the way up, before cutting from the top, experience and the type/size/pressure of the snag will determine the exact amount. Also never stand on anything but the ground, and never stand directly over the saw,...unless you don't like the current location of your hair and part......Cutting with any type of saw requires planning and awareness. I have been a carpenter since 1966 and I can still count to ten on my fingers......but I have the scars to show that the new math is still possible.....
MN

[Gordon Maney]

I have to ask. What is a snag?

[JimmieD]

Hi Gordon!

A 'snag' usually refers to any tree wood impinged by other wood or obstacles. That is, that it is 'snagged' or forced into some type of load/compression that it would not have if growing alone and naturally. It can also refer to a hanger, as a piece cut off or broken off that is still hooked into or impinged by other branches.

They can be very unpredicatable, so I think Norm is talking about taking the compressive load off bit by bit. Plus it's way easier to handle a saw down low than up high, so start at the bottom. If it's going to suddenly and violently break loose as you cut, you're a goner if the saw is overhead or even above chest height. Here the saw and the wood have applied torque but you don't!
JimmieD

[bosco]

I agree Jimmy about the falling tree as being number 1 in injuries. Many years ago when I was in my early 20's (which was many years ago) I worked for a guy who cleared land for new subdivisions. We would fall the trees and leave the stumps about 3-4 feet up. The bulldozer would then come in and remove the stumps.

Let me present an incident that happened to me back then. In slow times we would also remove and trim trees in neighborhoods for folks. Some times a rope or cable was attached high in the tree to help it fall more accurately. This wasn't always the case, but this method was used in certain situations. Another worker and I usually attended the rope from the ground and we always stood where the boss instructed us to, because we knew the tree was gonna fall toward us. The boss would always undercut the tree to help aid in the fall direction. This time while on the ground and applying tension on the rope, the tree starts to fall in our direction. As the tree gets closer to the ground, something appears wrong in where we are standing. It was too late, when the tree hit the ground the force of it knocked us on our butts and we both spent the next few minutes picking out pieces of wood (twigs) from our clothing and hair. Ok, so the boss miscalculated. Fortunately, no one was hurt ... but it could have been worse. I found another job soon afterwards.

The 'snag' you mention is something I will need to look for very closely when clearing my fence line. Most of the trees are entangled with vines and will make the falling tree possibly kickout or twist. So, I will need to pay close attention to that and plan my cuts. Those trees are not very tall, so hopefully I can cut the vines (and minimize that obstacle) to aid the in the fall of the tree. I sure don't wont any tree, much less one full of thorns coming in my direction.

One thing I would like to add about when we cleared land for subdivisions. Once we had to clear several acres of walnut trees. The boss told us once they were on the ground we had to cut them up and leave 'em. You see we usually removed any wood of value and sell them. But not this time, we had to leave all those beautiful walnut trees laying on the ground. What a shame and waste.

[MoparNorm]

Thanks for answering Jimmie. Also, when you fall a tree, (that's grammatically correct! ) you may notice that the branches that ended up on the underside may be holding the trunk off of the ground, that's perfect for keeping your bar out of the dirt, but be aware that there are several tons of wood there that will soon obey the laws of gravity. Plan your cuts and don't be tenative with the throttle. A saw held firmly at high rpm will run through a snag before it can buck back, but a slow throttle speed will more easily bind and buck back at you. Practice and experience helps the survivors.....

MN

[JimmieD]

So true Norm: in chainsaw work it's full power or no power, with no good reason to run in between. If you're cutting wood, then cut wood!

One further admonition that comes from painful experience. You mentioned some pesky vines? I ran into that as I had about 20 acres in the Sierra foothills of central California to clear. These blasted vines were everywhere, and fully entangled in every tree and bush!

So, I waded in and let the chips fly, first whacking away miles of these vines, then the tree, and back to vines and onward all day. It happened to be a pretty hot day too, so perspiration and the sap and juices from those vines had me thoroughly soaked even in heavy protective clothing. The vines would would squirt out a sappy juice as soon as the chain hit. Took a long hot shower when I got home. Unfortunately.

I now am able to identify Poison Sumac at distances near a mile, on an overcast day, at dusk. That lovely and refreshing hot water opened up every pore in my skin, to let the sumac oils in, and I was not back to cut more wood for 4 weeks! Hard to describe the pain, as ALL of the front of me, and head, neck, arms and much of the backside was a mass of blisters that defy description.

If you get a chance, drop by a library or look up Poison Sumac on the net, maybe before you start on those 'vines'?
JimmieD

[powerwagontim]

Hi Jimmie,
I once went swimming at a state park in Ca. On the way back to the car we spotted a lush blackberry patch. We waded right in, I was wearing only a pair of cutoff jeans. After filling several coffee cans we called it quits. It was sometime the next day we realised what the vines growing all through the blackberries were. Did I mention that I stopped to take a leak during the blackberry picking? Bad mistake there! There was literally no part of me that wasnt infected. I finally used my last ditch remedy. Scratch it until it is running and then wipe it down with chlorox. Man it hurts so good! It dries it up in no time at all. Anything that hurts that much must be good right?
Tim

[JimmieD]

OOoohhh....the pain of it! I still get cold shudders remembering, and yes, I even borrowed my buddy's outhouse that day, as there was a need to sit.....so to say I can relate is an understatement ha hahaha!

I was around poison oak all my life out here, and had become completely immune. The sumac is a whole different critter, and a much different reaction. Not so much itchy bumps as a deep blistering lesion. I'll remember the Clorox. It works very well for locker room foot rashes too, by the way, pouring it on straight. In the shower is the best place of course. Clorox is very toxic, but it has its uses in a desperate pinch.

Of course all you good people are cautioned to check with your healthcare professional before trying this at home for any personal use.
JimmieD

[MoparNorm]

You can...

....get the same results, without the resulting brain damage to the political portion of your thought process (hi Tim! ha!ha!) by using hydrogen peroxide. It will not have the deadly clorine gases that are present in bleach that could cause you to expire while sitting in your shower/toilet enclosure. Although the resulting front page newspaper photo would be interesting reading.......= )

Jimmie, up your way there is a lot of "tan" oak, the garbage oak that is used to make pallets, etc. The logging companies leave it pushed up in piles when they clear a new road to access a permit area. I found a 12' high tan-oak stump once that I though would make good firewood, since it appeared to be dead for several years. It was and indeed the center was rotted and hollow, the water shot out nearly 6 feet after my first cut and ran for a good 5 minutes, not exactly a sumac story but wierd never the less.

MN

[powerwagontim]

Hi Norm,
Maybe it enhanced the political portion of my brain. Either way, I am comfortable with my beliefs. Whats your excuse, injesting too much wet concrete? Dodge content? None!
Tim