Pic #7 shows how the worm had been pushed forward 3/16" to try get the seals into non-worn areas. The bottom gear is properly positioned- the cutouts in the shaft spacers are equally seated. The shaft spacers need to be measured for wear and replaced if out of spec- more on that later.
Pic #8 shows the stepped keys (left side & center) made for the wider keyway of the LU4 gear, compare with the MU2 key in the left side. I decided to keep the original 5/64" keyway in the event I replace the LU4 gear with an MU2 gear in the future. The LU4 gear has a thinner web than the MU2, and the hub may need to be faced off a few thou to fit the MU2 housing, but otherwise it fits. Both my MU2 and LU4 gears were wider than factory spec, but the cap is meant to be single or double gasketted to allow the gear to fit with no endplay. My worn MU2 gear is 2 thou over spec, the LU4 is 4 thou over. The original gaskets are still available thru Braden dealers like Sam Winer (home of the precious metal gears) for ~$2 ea, or you can cut your own from 1/64" gasket paper like me.
If you're in the market for a winch, you'll find they don't come for $50- $100 anymore. Everyone wants $500 plus for equipment that's likely worn out, so you'd be wise to add another $5-$600 for a complete rebuild. If you pay $1000 plus for a "rebuilt" unit, you'd be wise to insist on a money back guarantee if you're not satisfied with what you see after gear inspection- if they're junk, fresh paint, new bushings and brake bands don't matter much.
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Moving on, pic #4 compares the thickness of the old gear to that of the new-the last owner certainly got his money's worth! He also used a miracle lube composed of half 90 wt and half water- which did an excellent job corroding the worm gear (pic #5) and worm shaft bearings. If you're buying a winch, it would be a good idea to take the sideplate off and run your finger along the edge of the worm- if it's rough, it's junk. Compare pic #5 to the new worm in pic #6. I was fortunate enough to find new replacement gears at $170 ea, but Braden now wants ~$700 for the bronze bull gear, and ~$600 for the worm.Leave a comment:
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After 3 tries, the machine shop finally came through on the shaft- double keyways aren't for idiots. I think gears might be a good place to start, as looking at them can tell you if you're going to double what you paid for the winch.
Pic #1 shows my MU2 gear (left) alongside a brand new LU4 gear. Mine was worn out first on one side (pic #2), then reversed and worn out on the other (pic #3). The black coloration is not paint, but a sign of high-sulfur content oil- a big No-No with bronze gears. Notice how the wear is offset on pic #2 compared to pic #1. Presently, I don't have an explanation for that, unless the attempt to move the worm gear shaft forward 3/16" to get out of seal wear areas caused it.Leave a comment:
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Winch Repair & Rebuild
I'm getting ready to reassemble my winch after a complete teardown, and thought I would cover certain aspects that others might consider before trying to do it themselves. Mine was a complete piece of junk internally- it was run with 50% water and 50% 90 wt, so EVERYTHING had to be replaced, including the drum shaft. I had a new one machined out of 4140, and was about to pick it up, when the shop discovered the keyways were too shallow. A moron set it up in the Mill, and right before my eyes Instant Ruin happened! They're going to try again tomorrow...
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