46 Power Wagon Restoration pt. 2

[CSCameron]

Nice video, thanks for posting. WOW! It is loud. :)

Clark

[Desoto61]

Lucked out with the brakes. Decided to start at the linkage and make sure it wasn't binding up, as I started to loosen the bolt sure enough the peddle returned to it's normal resting position.

While the rod on the end of the booster is connected via a ball-joint, the peddle uses a shoulder bolt as a pivot for a metal block with a threaded hole for the pushrod. The stock booster had to have the end cut and the threads added for the linkage. Between that and my bracket holding it there's a slight horizontal angle in the linkage. Once I added a washer between the bolt and peddle everything moved easier. I re-greased all the friction surfaces and re-assembled. The pushrod used to be tough to adjust in the threaded hole, but after it was so light I had to add a nut on the end to lock it in place.

End result is the peddle returns as it should, then it was just time for another test run. This time I used a little toy I got as a gift to try and get some video from inside the cab. It's loud but runs well considering the tiny tires and poor alignment.

My other fix was to get the fuel filler neck installed and a new cap installed as I kept getting fuel sloshing out of the opening and leaking down the frame. I blasted and powder coated the outside of the neck and purchased a new cap. The hose was ordered from Rock-Auto, though they required a 3 ft. section when I needed four inches, so if anyone needs some let me know, not sure what I'd need the rest for.

Working on a few minor things, still waiting for the real gearshift lever to be done, there was some mus-communication. Next will be to get the bed into the garage and start repairing it. Should be much more straight forward compared to the stuff I've been doing, but it's a big heavy beast and moving it is going to be tricky. I just need to wait till I know I'm ready to start since the truck will end up sitting outside while I work on the bed.

[Desoto61]

Your problem seems different than mine, in that mine don't self apply, they just don't return completely when released.

From the online searching I've done, for your issue what I've seen is that you probably have a problem with the return pressure. I'd check the return line from the hydroboost. If there is any back pressure it can prevent the brakes from releasing as the pressure helping apply the brakes has nowhere to go. I'd look at the return line first. Sometimes they're T'd into the same return as the power steering and even that can cause problems as the shape restricts return flow. most recommend a Y fitting or like mine a separate return for the hydroboost. Which is why I don't think that's my problem, but it could be.

The first step for me is probably seeing if it's the brakes that aren't returning fully, or the hydroboost isn't letting them.

[Bob2]

Desoto,
I have the same problem with my 66 with a 4BT and hydroboost that was rebuilt by Dan Mininger, brakes still grab, have changed the length of push rod, changed return line configuration. and they still grab.

Driving down the road brakes lock up, have to pull over and shut down the engine and wait 2-3 minutes for them to unlock, after that it is good to go all day long with no problems. this happens within 30-45 minutes starting out.

I am completely stumped. thinking it might be the way brakes are mounted?? I am on my second set of pads in 6,500 miles of driving it. First set were gone within 2,500 miles.

Other than that truck is fun to drive with all the people looking at it. Have taken the truck to shows, placed 1st or second every time in its class.

Any body have any suggestions on the brake problem??

Bob

[Desoto61]

Spent some time last week just double checking little things, adjustment of the t-case levers and e-brake cable, as well as tweaking the adjustment of the brake and clutch peddle. Verified and topped off all the fluids, a quick squirt of grease and checking bolts and such. Biggest task was to clean up and install the filler neck as I was getting fuel sloshing out of the opening down the side of the frame and springs. So I blasted and powder coated the original, and picked up some fuel filler hose and a new cap to install temporarily, then took it for a second run last Sunday.

With the little rollers on it the gearing is a little tricky. You really have to wind it out between gears to keep it from bogging, especially between 1 and 2. It's going to take some time for me to get used to the fact that normal 1st gear is actually low and I need to start in "second". The NV4500 I have is really a 3-speed with overdrive and a creeper gear vice a normal 5-speed OD trans. Can't see low being much use outside of off-roading with the gearing in that truck though.

The clutch is stiff but not horrible, it is however very abrupt, not much modulation, it also seems to be weeping somewhere, every so often I find some brake fluid from it on top of the power steering reservoir, which rules out either of the fittings at the front. Might need to swap it, though I'd still like to go a little smaller, I think it will lighten and lengthen the throw.

Biggest issue is that the brakes stick on. The peddle doesn't return all the way causing them to drag. From what I've read that's either a return line issue, which I'm pretty sure I can rule out, a stuck caliper which is possible due to how long the system sat, or a bad hydroboost, which is also possible, and would be really annoying. I need to do some more troubleshooting. Otherwise they seem to work well, though I'll need to work on adjusting the brake bias at some point.

One of these times I'll try and get some video, but I've been mostly concerned with testing the truck to this point. Still, so far so good.

[thrashingcows]

I just spent a bunch of time quickly scrolling through this thread. Great job! I'm thinking of doing a project like this in a few years.

[cj7and8]

That is way cool!!! Nothing beats the maiden voyage! I bet your grinnin' ear to ear!

[dieseldude4bt]

Congrats on the first self powered drive!!

[Desoto61]

Success!

With most of the front sheet metal on I turned to other smaller tasks. Adding extra lubricant to the transmission to account for the tilt. Checking fluids and tightening all the fasteners. I had goofed when building the axle and put the front hubs on the wrong sides so I needed to swap the lug nuts so they were consistent and correct, which was easier than swapping hubs but tricky because the rotor makes driving them back in tough.

The goal was to see if I could actually drive it this last weekend. I wanted to add some extra gas to the tank to make sure I didn't suck air while moving, the easiest way right now is to go through the fuel filler. While I had it out I also drilled and installed some riv-nuts vice just trying to thread the thin tank metal which gives a better seal and a cleaner install. Then I strapped the battery down to the rear crossmember and zip tied the rear end and bed wiring out of the way.

The new gear shift lever wasn't ready so I fabricated one from some small square tubing I had left over along with the right fasteners at each end. It was quick and dirty but did the job. With that I could attempt to make it move. At first just forward and backward a few inches in the garage before finally pulling it out under it's own power!

I just went around the block but other than gas not wanting to stay in the tank it was some oddness with the brakes, and of course the speedometer isn't calibrated, but otherwise it went pretty well. All temps and pressures good no steering issues though the alignment is of course all wonky yet and they're not the right size tires either. Still I was looking back and it had first sat in that spot in the driveway almost 7 years earlier!

[Desoto61]

With the hood locked down as close as I was going to get it I moved on to some other under hood tasks. I wanted some under hood light so I used some of the LED strip lighting and some door pin switches (one for each side) to build some lights. I used trim adhesive to hold them on, so we'll see how well that holds up, but not sure how I could do anything mechanical. The pin switches are on little brackets bolted to the firewall. I installed them in the inner fender wells as I figured with the way the hood tilts it would just end up pointing at you vice the engine. I pulled power from the panel on the firewall with a small fuse holder.

The tilt of the transmission causes the stock straight shift lever to point at your leg, so I needed to build a new one. I don't have the ability to bend tubing, so I got some 1/4" round stock and a nut that matches the trans shift tower and a bolt that fit the shift knob. I tack welded the rod to the nut and then threaded it in place. The round stock is just stiff enough I could carefully shift gears but light enough I could tweak it by hand. I laid out the initial shape in the vice and fine tuned it in the truck.

I did run into one problem, the dog-leg needed to get the shifter into a useable position made it too big to thread on in one piece. So I ended up having to cut the bar and thread each end using a threaded fitting to join them so I could install the bottom dog-leg and then screw on the straight extension with the shift knob. Once I was happy with the shape and position I took it to a local metal fabricator to get a piece of tubing bent and threaded.

I had plans to install a windshield washer reservoir on the inner fender where the battery bump is, but it's on back order, so I decided to go ahead and install the fenders. It took about half the day to install each side. While the front and rear holes lined up OK, the ones in the inner fender were much tougher. Partly because the extra cab and hood lift caused everything to shift, and some of them just need some tweaking, which was tricky by myself with tight clearances for some of the bolt, especially on the passenger side with all the extra plumbing. The end result though is always rewarding!

[Desoto61]

I'll have to go dig for specifics when I get home, the pressure in and out lines on the booster were metric, and I found adapters to go from those to AN fittings for the Aeroquip hose I used. The one I had trouble with was the return port for the booster. I wanted to put an elbow in as mine pointed right at the motor, but I couldn't easily find one with the metric o-ring style fitting. I'm sure it exists but I wasn't even sure what it was to order the right one.

The power steering box I also need to check but I don't think they were metric on mine, but it's the Dodge reverse rotation box since I'm using the stock steering linkage. The reason I goofed them up is that again I ran all braided stainless -6 AN power steering line, so while the adapters in the ports are different sizes they both reduce to -6 AN, making it easier to get them wrong. I didn't really need the pressure line for the return from the box except like you I am running a power steering cooler so since I had a whole role of the line I used it to run from the steering box to the cooler and then converted to low pressure line coming out to the return.

As for the reservoir I used the bread-van one from the donor truck, the seller left it attached to the pump and I was able to easily modify the bracket and find a good spot for it off the side of the brake booster. It was already set up for hydroboost as it has a return line on the reservoir for the hydroboost and a dipstick, plus a screen in the bottom for some protection from debris. Then the pump has the line for the remote reservoir and it's own return line, which I used for the return from the power steering box. I would have had a hard time building something as nice and the price was right!

I should have the gear shift lever back by Friday (I'm hoping) and should be able to actually pull the truck out of the garage under it's own power! Will probably strap the battery down to the frame temporarily and go for a less than legal drive around the block if everything goes well. Then I can start on the bed and rest of the sheet metal.

Shoot me an e-mail if you want any part numbers and I'll dig them up for you. Keep the pictures coming!

[Alxj64]

Heh ALXj64 I think you mis-sent me mail that you didn't want to. I'm not the guy you want to talk to about your project. Good Luck

Welcome to the forum Cartridge; you posted elsewhere in this thread, therefore you recieved an email notification about my post above. I did not message you directly but rather you were included in the conversation as you had contributed elsewhere previously. There is a setting in which you can turn off those email notifications.

[cartridge]

AGR box

Heh ALXj64 I think you mis-sent me mail that you didn't want to. I'm not the guy you want to talk to about your project. Good Luck

[Alxj64]

Hey bud, quick question about the AGR box... You said that yours didn't use the normal fitting? I pulled the weird adapter fittings out of my hydroboost 18mm-1.5 and 16mm - 1.5 with the funky flared O-ring seat and they threaded into the top of my box (supposed to be a factory replacement for a late '80s Chevy 3/4 ton truck). Is your box a little different? Reason I ask is I am laying out my hose routing for my coolers and don't want to end up with a mess. Also I am guessing that the small line is pressure into the box and the larger line is the pressure out? That way I don't hook mine up backwards too. Lastly, what did you end up using for a reservoir? My PS pump is on my rear-geartrain so right below the firewall so I am going to be playing a strange game of fitting the hydroboost, PS reservoir, and steering column all through that one spot. Turns out one more benefit of slightly offsetting my engine to the passenger's side.

First time I saw the engine running video. Stoked for ya man! Big time!

[Greg Coffin]

I agree that the Detroit pedestals are probably not as strong as the Spicer, but overall it think the Detroit is a better design. The bolts in the Spicer are the weak link in the setup. They are directly stressed by the u-joint strap, and the ones on my NP435 look like they are 5/16" at best. The keys on the Detroit straps take most of the stress from the u-joint, the bolt simply keeps the strap from sliding sideways, and there's only a little tensile effort necessary to keep the strap from spreading. Overall I think it's a much better design, but it was more expensive to manufacture which is probably why they stopped making it.