Bearings and races inside differential for a 1950 Power Wagon

[CRudolph]

Hi All:
If your looking for a number for Dave Cirillo at DC truck parts mobile 541-941-3162. Office/shop 541-772-8992.

Tom thanks for sharing the info regarding Bob.

[Karl Kostman]

Hey Craig when I figured out my ring and pinion were going to need to be replaced I talked to vintage Power Wagon and I was thinking of going to the 4.30 gears instead of replacing them with the original 4.89 and Steve talked me out of it after considering the tall NDT tires I am running he questioned if I had enough HP with the 230 ci engine to pull the gears, I am used to lots of Military trucks so I said just go with the 4.89 set. I had a talk with Dave at DC truck parts and got all my bearings and races ordered from him on friday so should have them by the end of next week which should give me enough time to prep the diff housings and axle housing for powder coating before reassembly. I need to check on my new leaf springs for the front axle on Monday and if they are getting close they will need to be powder coated prior to installation then I can at least get axles and tires under the truck and tear into the transfer case, transmission and PTO. Get those inspected and replace what needs to be replaced and all new seals then I can start prepping for installation in the chassis. Its coming along just seems a bit slow at times Craig!
Karl

[CRudolph]

Yes sir, it is a bit slow. I only went to 4.30 gears since I’m re-powering to 318. Had I stayed with the original 251 flathead (which runs and drove the truck) before disassembly. Steve at VPW told me with the re-power I would be fine and being in a relatively flat area (30 miles south of Dallas TX) I should be ok.

I also switched to a centered rear end I obtained from Dave at DC trucks as I didn’t want to chance breakfast no an axel with the re-power.

Hopefully i I can get some work done this week.

Thanks,
Craig

[48powerwagon]

Craig, I ended up using a piece of pipe, drilling holes and welding a cut off bolt in it for my tool to remove the differential nut. Mine is crusty centered axle that I'm rebuilding for mine. It took a pipe wrench and cheater pipe to break it loose. Alan 20200129_033344.png

[CRudolph]

Wow. Me and a friend too a 2 1/4 inch socket that would fit in the center of the ring but welded 4 tabs on the outer surface of socket. Used and electric impact and it came right out. We were looking at all options and had thought about what you did until he came up with the socket idea. As long as they work we can continue in our endeavors. Thanks so much for the info. Craig

[CRudolph]

Karl,

Got my rear diff out all bearings, new ring and pinion put on and put together only the snap one of the shark tooth lock washer as I was putting it back together. I spoke to VPW said I could probably pick one up at Fasten All. I hope so then I can move on the the front diff. Did you see 48 powerwagons post he came up with a good idea on getting the ring out as well.

Anybody have a method for checking the diff backlash? I hate to get it together wrong.

Keep plugging away Karl.

[Desoto61]

The M-37 military service manuals are great for this type of service since they were written for less experienced mechanics. They discuss how to do the check and provide specs. Its' been a while since I did mine though there's probably some pictures in my build thread showing how I did it. I remember it was a little tricky getting a dial indicator in the right position to properly check it.

[CRudolph]

Thanks DeSoto will do.

[Desoto61]

You can find PDFs online of the service manuals (there was more than one, though you don't need all of them), I purchased mine for not much money but there are probably shared copies floating around. Makes life convenient as you just print the section you need and if it gets dirty or damaged you just print a new one.

[Karl Kostman]

Desoto61 I bought every manual I could find when I started this project but your idea of being able to print what you need as you need it is a good one then I could even make notes on it and other chicken scratching that seems to be my bad habit, thanks again for the tip!

[CRudolph]

DSoto where do I find your pics and where can I find the PDF Manuel’s online. Makes a lot of sense to print only what you need. Thanks, Craig

[Desoto61]

Looks like the picture you want is on page 3

[Desoto61]

I don't remember where I got my service manuals from any more, but a quick search on your favorite search engine for "dodge M37 service manuals" I found links to places that will sell you the PDFs as well as places that look like they have them for download for free, but I'm at work so have limited access to web sites. This looks like a good place to start:

Obviously not everything from those manuals works on a Power Wagon, but for stuff like differentials and such they are far easier to follow than the civilian truck service manual.

[Karl Kostman]

Hey guys just an update on my progress I got all my bearings from Dave at DC truck Parts thanks to you guys sharing the info. One part that I never dreamed would take so long is cleaning all the 70 year old residual gear lube out of the old axle housings in prep for powder coating, today I ordered a wire multi level 3" brush and a 2" multi level wire brush hopefully that gives me what I need to get them cleaned out, I looked high and low and could not find any chemical that would really even loosen up the crud thats inside. Tonight I was media blasting the pullys and all the shackle components on the front suspension I will powder coat all them in my shop. When the axle/differential housing are powder coated I can then assemble the differentials and the front and rear assemblies and the steering knuckle assemblies that will be fun because I have not done them before, I always like to learn something new! Thanks for all your suggestions guys its helped and much appreciated!

[CRudolph]

Thanks DeSoto.

[Karl Kostman]

Hey guysI just wanted to give you an update on my progress on my 50 PW. LOTS of media blasting virtually everything, my got home the other day and asked where all that sand came from that I dumped on our gravel road, then of course I had to explain that is was worn out media from my blaster, I think the answer is to let her blast rust off for a couple hours so she has a full idea of what I am talking about AND I will never have to explain it to her again! I am waiting anxiously for my diff/axle housing to be done they are being powder coated and hopefully done tomorrow then I can get the diffs installed and one day soon actually have the ability to put tires on the truck! Next is going through all the propeller shafts, all new U joints cleaning and MORE powder coating then I will tear into the trans and transfer case I really hope the bearings and races are OK in them my last bearing/race bill was a doosy!
Thanks much for your help on this project guys you have answered my questions and offered some info that allowed me to proceed where I would have been dead in my tracks without, its greatly appreciated!!
Karl

[CRudolph]

Karl

i have replaced the bearings and races in my rear 3rd member about to start on the front diff. What are you doing about checking the backlash on your differentials? I was reading an article on rebuilding the front knuckles while I have the diffs tire down. It suggested to replace the bearing with Timken bearing 23100 and Timken races 23256 which I found on Amazon for $37 per set (need 4 sets) to du up and lower bearing both sides. Check
out the link. Keep me updated. Craig

https://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/steeringknuckle