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The "Hulk": Ugly green truck to Juneau??

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  • #61
    You left out all the snow...
    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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    • #62
      Yeah, no snow, don't want to scare the females before we leave....

      I have done a cooling system flush, replaced all the hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator cap, and pulled the radiator to tilt it around for a good flush. I also replaced the very-rusty heater core coolant valve.

      The new thermostat was a 195 degree one in a 180 degree box, which I did NOT notice, and the new rad cap was missing the vacuum valve spring, so it was defective (which I also did not notice). I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out why the system wouldn't build pressure, why the fluid kept overflowing the tank, and why the dang thing kept overheating. Three days later I had a new 180 degree t-stat and new 16 psi rad cap. The system now builds pressure but I am having a serious air pocket, blocked passage, or defective water pump issue, as well as intermittent overheating. Will keep all y'all posted.

      I have also done an oil change.

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      • #63
        Where did you get your parts?

        I hate when people do that. I had a flat on a borrowed hay wagon last summer. The owner needed it bask asap to reload, I swung by TSC Sunday morning for a new inner-tube. Got home, got the tire broken down, opened the box - and it was someone's used tube they had returned...

        I just replaced my rad with no issues. Have you tried running it cap off with the truck tilted both up and down to work out the air?
        1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
        1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
        1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
        2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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        • #64
          Received parts from Amazon. Don't see it as their fault, these were brand-name parts, could have gotten screwed anywhere.

          I removed the water pump today and found out a few things:

          1. The overheating was from a fully-blocked passenger-side water pump outlet...
          50.jpg
          As you can see, there is no water flowing out of the passenger side pump outlet as I am shooting full-flow
          water from a garden hose into the thermostat housing with the thermostat removed.

          51.jpg
          This is what you get when you bolt aluminum to iron and do not use proper coolant/corrosion inhibitors
          and combine that with years of non-operation.

          52.jpg
          The driver's side...

          2. I also found that frickin' Bubba did something to the top of the timing chain cover:
          55.jpg
          WHAT IN HECK??

          54.jpg
          Oh, OK, why-y-y-y no-o-o-ot...

          So I have a new timing chain cover coming.
          The passenger side passage is cleaned out.
          I HOPE there is no overheating DAMAGE.
          I also have a new timing chain and sprocket set coming, as well as a new harmonic balancer and gasket set.
          I have painted the new high-flow water pump (paint not shown below).


          56.jpg
          3. The Specifications say that the gap between the fan blades and the back of the radiator is 1" +/- 1/4";
          I found that the gap is about 2", and the shroud has 1/2" gaps top and bottom.

          So, I will be modifying the shroud while I await parts. I have decided I will get a thermostatic fan clutch
          in the near future, so the fan/radiator gap correction will wait. The Specifications say that this engine can
          survive with a 4-bladed fan with no air conditioning and with a manual transmission; mine has a 7-bladed
          fan, so we should be good until I repair the A/C.
          Attached Files

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          • #65
            I forgot to illustrate what a radiator cap missing the vacuum valve spring looks like...
            57.jpg
            The spring keeps the vacuum valve snug against the gasket, so it will seal when
            pressure is applied to the system. Without it, the valve hangs down, maintaining
            an open system.

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            • #66
              Thanks for posting your work and information. I have gained items already that will help me in the long run.

              Thanks
              Todd

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              • #67
                Yeah, for sure! I'm not doing this for fame; I'm hoping other people can avoid some of the pitfalls which are always a part of this kind of project...

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                • #68
                  Well, I got a pile o' parts this week, so Friday night I removed the timing chain cover and timing chain/sprocket set, cleaned everything, and installed the new timing chain set.

                  Most everything looks original to me, as evidenced by the blue paint.

                  58.jpg
                  As can be seen, there was an internal water leak on the passenger side for a while.

                  59.jpg
                  Also, the chain had an excess of slack, as can be seen by the chain leaving the crank sprocket at less than 90 degrees.

                  I had seen some emulsified oil/water on the fuel pump lever when I pulled it, but had hoped it was just from condensation.

                  62.jpg
                  NOPE, not just condensation!

                  The block cleaned up OK, and I was able to reach into the front of the oil pan to wipe out crumbs which had fallen in;
                  I had also inserted some towels to absorb any water dribbling out of any holes while I was working. I will, of course,
                  do another oil change, and plan to drop the oil pan and clean it out, soon.

                  60.jpg
                  The new chain: it's a Cloyes brand which I had thought was a high-quality make, but the
                  roller chain they use seems less robust than the factory type.

                  61.jpg
                  As can be seen, the new chain/sprocket set is much tighter than what came out.

                  I didn't mar the end of the crank, but I will be dressing it up so as to prevent scoring the new seal.

                  In case anyone thinks I'm some rich guy working in a nice, spacious, well-lit, heated shop:
                  63.jpg
                  Total time from opening the garage door to closing: 1 hour 48 minutes.

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                  • #69
                    I don't know how this series of posts is working for everyone else, but my pictures keep getting mixed up randomly when refreshing.

                    The nly thing that seems to sort them out is to close the web page and re-open in a new tab.

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                    • #70
                      Pictures appear fine to me.

                      I feel for ya on the "driveway repair shop". Although I have a 1200sqft garage, my W600 is too tall to fit in it.

                      Bucky
                      1975 W600

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                      • #71
                        Yep- I have an M35A2 Kaiser-Jeep in the driveway; same deal.

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                        • #72
                          Well, I put it all back together today- cost me 6 hours. That included a heck of a time getting the timing cover to go on, as the bottom rubber seal (atop the oil pan lip) did not want to crush, making it impossible to start bolts. I ended up VERY CAREFULLY using a pry bar to push down one side, get a bolt started, then push down the other side to start another one.

                          I also had to cut down and rethread several bolts which were too long (not factory). Finally, I replaced the stock 35 amp alternator with a 78 amp one, which also required some mods. That project is not yet complete.

                          There were no leaks, the engine temp stayed at the cool end of the range, and the internal boiling problem has gone away. Of course, I will need to carefully watch for coolant disappearing and for emulsified oil, either of which would indicate an internal coolant leak.
                          64.jpg

                          65.jpg

                          I am hoping to finish the alternator mod, finish the battery tray, finish the heater hoses, and get the heater valve control working this weekend.

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                          • #73
                            Making good progress.
                            Pics working for me too.
                            I've done tons of belts but never a chain, do you take the cam gear off to install?
                            What is your trip deadline again?
                            1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                            1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                            1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                            2005 Jeep KJ CRD

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Thanks!

                              Both gears and the chain must slide off and on together; the assembly is too tight to take off one piece at a time. If you try to hammer the camshaft gear on, you can push the shaft out the back of the block (thatís bad!).

                              The goal is late June 2020; this includes the truck, a slide-in camper, and an M1102 HMMWV trailer all fully-functional.

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                              • #75
                                I wrongly understood that the stock alternator was only 35 amp output; I have found this week that they are 65 amp. I had intended to upgrade to a 78 amp unit; to that end I had installed one.

                                However, I have tried that alternator and a stock one plus three different voltage regulators and am getting 15.8 to 16.1 volts at the battery. This is bad.

                                I installed a 16 gage ground from the voltage regulator to the electronic ignition module, and a 12 gage ground from the ignition module to the battery ground connection at the engine head, and cleaned that connection as well.

                                The result of all of that was a reduction by .5 volts, and a MUCH more stable voltage.

                                Applying a jumper from the red 12 volt ignition wire at the voltage regulator to the output post on the alternator got me down to 14.8 volts.

                                This is still too high, so I will be trying an after-market adjustable volt reg next.

                                The drop in voltage seen with the jumper indicates several poor ignition circuit connections/contacts, as well as voltage drop from undersized wires.

                                If the adjustable regulator does not get battery voltage down to 13.5 to 13.8 volts, I will install a relay to take the place of the jumper.

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