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The "Hulk": Ugly green truck to Juneau??

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  • #61
    You left out all the snow...
    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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    • #62
      Yeah, no snow, don't want to scare the females before we leave....

      I have done a cooling system flush, replaced all the hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator cap, and pulled the radiator to tilt it around for a good flush. I also replaced the very-rusty heater core coolant valve.

      The new thermostat was a 195 degree one in a 180 degree box, which I did NOT notice, and the new rad cap was missing the vacuum valve spring, so it was defective (which I also did not notice). I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out why the system wouldn't build pressure, why the fluid kept overflowing the tank, and why the dang thing kept overheating. Three days later I had a new 180 degree t-stat and new 16 psi rad cap. The system now builds pressure but I am having a serious air pocket, blocked passage, or defective water pump issue, as well as intermittent overheating. Will keep all y'all posted.

      I have also done an oil change.

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      • #63
        Where did you get your parts?

        I hate when people do that. I had a flat on a borrowed hay wagon last summer. The owner needed it bask asap to reload, I swung by TSC Sunday morning for a new inner-tube. Got home, got the tire broken down, opened the box - and it was someone's used tube they had returned...

        I just replaced my rad with no issues. Have you tried running it cap off with the truck tilted both up and down to work out the air?
        1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
        1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
        1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
        2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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        • #64
          Received parts from Amazon. Don't see it as their fault, these were brand-name parts, could have gotten screwed anywhere.

          I removed the water pump today and found out a few things:

          1. The overheating was from a fully-blocked passenger-side water pump outlet...
          50.jpg
          As you can see, there is no water flowing out of the passenger side pump outlet as I am shooting full-flow
          water from a garden hose into the thermostat housing with the thermostat removed.

          51.jpg
          This is what you get when you bolt aluminum to iron and do not use proper coolant/corrosion inhibitors
          and combine that with years of non-operation.

          52.jpg
          The driver's side...

          2. I also found that frickin' Bubba did something to the top of the timing chain cover:
          55.jpg
          WHAT IN HECK??

          54.jpg
          Oh, OK, why-y-y-y no-o-o-ot...

          So I have a new timing chain cover coming.
          The passenger side passage is cleaned out.
          I HOPE there is no overheating DAMAGE.
          I also have a new timing chain and sprocket set coming, as well as a new harmonic balancer and gasket set.
          I have painted the new high-flow water pump (paint not shown below).


          56.jpg
          3. The Specifications say that the gap between the fan blades and the back of the radiator is 1" +/- 1/4";
          I found that the gap is about 2", and the shroud has 1/2" gaps top and bottom.

          So, I will be modifying the shroud while I await parts. I have decided I will get a thermostatic fan clutch
          in the near future, so the fan/radiator gap correction will wait. The Specifications say that this engine can
          survive with a 4-bladed fan with no air conditioning and with a manual transmission; mine has a 7-bladed
          fan, so we should be good until I repair the A/C.
          Attached Files

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          • #65
            I forgot to illustrate what a radiator cap missing the vacuum valve spring looks like...
            57.jpg
            The spring keeps the vacuum valve snug against the gasket, so it will seal when
            pressure is applied to the system. Without it, the valve hangs down, maintaining
            an open system.

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            • #66
              Thanks for posting your work and information. I have gained items already that will help me in the long run.

              Thanks
              Todd

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              • #67
                Yeah, for sure! I'm not doing this for fame; I'm hoping other people can avoid some of the pitfalls which are always a part of this kind of project...

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