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The "Hulk": Ugly green truck to Juneau??

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  • Decided to take a break from work and have a little fun today
    98.jpg

    A friend, his son, and I burned some powder and killed some targets

    ... Is there really any other better use for an old Dodge? :D

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    • When I was about 6 & lived in Colorado, my dad and some of his co-workers would go out & sight in their rifles..... And the company truck was a 73 W200 sno-fiter (blue).

      Bucky
      1975 W600

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      • No way! Nice....

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        • I told my 16- and 20-year old daughters that I was going to install a rifle rack in the back window... they both said, "God, NO!!"

          Heh, heh, heh....

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          • Well, the truck is back!

            I have installed a small tachometer (Auto Meter 2306 Autogage Mini Tachometer; $56 at Amazon), chopped out a bunch of scabbed-in accessory wiring, removed some other electrical crap, added two 12 volt distribution fuse blocks (one from battery, one from ignition), and finished the trailer brake controller installation.

            I also replaced the door window rollers in the driver's door.

            The steering still wanders too much for my liking; I'm sure these trucks wandered a little as new, but this is too much to be comfortable for long-distance driving. "Caster" is a front hub angle and is the major contributing factor in this discussion.

            An explanation which I like is located here:
            https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...e.jsp?techid=4

            "Wandering" in my definition is the truck's failure to tend to maintain straight-ahead steering, and to not be inclined to return to a straight-ahead path upon finish of a turn. In my case, the truck does not tend to return from a wide turn, and I am required to constantly correct its path for straight ahead, especially for small irregularities in the road surface.

            Some conditions with this truck which contribute to this problem include:

            1. The rear axle has lifted, extra springs which change the angle of the frame compared to the road, reducing caster angle.
            2. Sagging front axle springs; this lowers the front end of the frame, reducing positive caster angle.
            3. The oversized tires I installed on the truck.
            4. A lack of factory caster shims.

            The factory manual I have states the angle to be 3 degrees positive caster.

            For #1. above, I will not be correcting that as I will be driving loaded for the entire trip.
            For #2. above, I plan to replace the main leaves and probably the second leaves under them. I may install 1/2"-longer shackles as well.
            For #3. above, I will not be changing this condition. Although narrow tires give greater steering response, I will be keeping what I have.
            For #4. above, I installed 2.5 degree steel shims yesterday. Steering has improved, but only to about 50% of what I am looking for.

            The shims are steel (aluminum is quite common, but soft and has a tendency to slowly fail in off-road vehicles; bronze is also available, but I could not find what I wanted in the correct size and degree of angle). They are made by Rubicon Express, P/N RE1464; $34 / pair at Amazon. I have ordered another pair and will stack them in ASAP. I also had to remove the spring pack center bolts and weld-on steel nuts to extend the heads to mesh with the axle spring seat centering hole.

            99.jpg
            U-bolts and bottom bracket removed; driver's side

            101b.jpg
            Arrow points to spring pack centering bolt head

            102.jpg
            New 2.5 degree shim installed

            100.jpg
            Sagging springs, contributing to less positive caster

            103.jpg
            Front spring rear shackles barely keep spring eye from contacting the frame, by about 1/16"
            Attached Files
            Last edited by oldndcctrucks; 06-17-2019, 09:15 PM.

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            • 5 degrees of shim made the steering much better; but the pinion shaft angle for the front differential is now quite sharp, which is something I had not considered.

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              • I have almost finished the cab heater.

                The problems were:

                1. The original defrost ducts on top were cut off and covered to make room for the aftermarket A/C, and the duct tape had disintegrated.
                2. The defrost ducts were missing.
                3. The fan switch was stuck on LOW.
                4. The heater core coolant flow valve cable was broken.
                5. There was a mouse nest inside.
                6. The blower motor engine compartment gasket had shrunk badly, making long, tapered 1/4" gaps allowing for sucking engine gasses into the cabin.
                7. The horizontal defrost duct hubs were missing.

                1. I installed a nice piece of galvanized sheet steel and taped in place using aluminum self-adhesive duct tape.
                2. New flexible duct is ordered.
                3. I replaced the fan switch with a Four Seasons model, which was bad out of the box. I had to wiggle the switch handle to make the blower run. I replaced it with a Standard brand switch #HS201, which worked fine. While both looked identical and they both were made in Mexico, the Four Seasons one was junk.
                4. The wire was broken-off next to the slider control; I cut off the kinked end, pulled it out of the sheath, cut off the sheath about 2" shorter at the valve, oiled the wire and pushed it back into the sheath, connecting the coiled end to the slider lever. I then cut the heater hose back 2" and bent a coil in the end of the wire. Works fine.
                5. Removed the entire inside half of the housing and cleaned it out.
                6. Removed the blower motor, measured the housing and cut a new gasket from 3/16" neoprene rubber.
                7. Made two new hubs from 2" EMT electrical conduit, and sealed with aluminum self-adhering duct tape.
                .

                108.jpg
                Heater housing, interior of cab

                109.jpg

                110.jpg

                111.jpg
                Blower motor gasket on housing in engine compartment

                104.jpg
                Evaporator (inside dash)

                105.jpg
                Thermostatic switch (probe inserts into evaporator core)

                106.jpg
                Thermostatic switch (not factory)

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                • I brought the donor truck home today; this is the one which I will be getting the sweptline bed from. From parking to leaving, got it loaded and tied down in just under 15 minutes!

                  I left my house at 7:00 a.m. and parked home again at 7:15 p.m.; Beaumont, Calif. to Kingsburg, Calif. and back; 566 miles round trip.

                  The trailer pulled fine, stable; but the right rear bearing was hot the whole way back. We stopped at an autoparts store, bought a mini grease gun, and
                  regreased the bearing, but to no avail....

                  112.jpg

                  113.jpg
                  The stuff on the paint is not rust; it's some sort of lichen!
                  114.jpg
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by oldndcctrucks; 07-07-2019, 09:18 PM.

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                  • We get that fungal growth here too but I thought it was due to the high humidity and 50+ inches of rain annually.

                    We also get a black mold from the bourbon distilleries. The Angel's share.

                    What are your plans for the front springs?
                    1951 B-3 Delux Cab, Braden Winch, 9.00 Power Kings
                    1976 M880, power steering, 7.50x16's, flat bed, lots of rust & dents
                    1992 W250 CTD, too many mods to list...
                    2005 Jeep KJ CRD

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