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  • #61
    Well Altered, this is going to go way off topic but it is your thread. The best 14 bolt to use would be a DRW and convert to SRW. This would narrow the axle by 4 inches. Then when you go to put a dana44 in the front you can have it narrowed 4 inches on the long side and use a common off the shelf axle. That keeps the leaf spring on the pumpkin casting on the passenger side. This is much better than going the full width route for a streetable driver.

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    • #62
      Originally posted by Sickcall View Post
      Well Altered, this is going to go way off topic but it is your thread. The best 14 bolt to use would be a DRW [dual rear wheel] and convert to SRW [single rear wheel].

      This would narrow the axle by 4 inches. Then when you go to put a dana44 in the front you can have it narrowed 4 inches on the long side and use a common off the shelf axle.

      That keeps the leaf spring on the pumpkin casting on the passenger side. This is much better than going the full width route for a streetable driver.
      I am not understanding your third paragraph above, unable to imagine what you are saying. Please offer a bit more comment so that I can better picture what you mean.
      Power Wagon Advertiser monthly magazine, editor & publisher.


      Why is it that the inside of old truck cabs smell so good?

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      • #63
        Thanks for the advice. It was off topic but I am already starting to plan the disposal of the van. I am going to have to pay to store it or set in on my 10 undeveloded acres. I figure it will be easier to disassemble on flat non tick infested ground. The condo association does not take too kindly to junk vehicles parked on premisis. Thay have already taken (Stolen) one of my other ones.

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        • #64
          Gordon, the passenger side leaf spring perch or pad on the dana 44 is cast into the pumpkin housing. When installing this axle into the narrower frame of a jeep you need to outboard the leaf springs on the frame to install the axle and use the stock perch locations. The other method is to leave your leaf springs where they are and install the stock jeep spring on the pumkin perch which is on the passenger side, and only shorten the drivers side. The amount needed would be 4" to match up with the DRW 14 bolt. It is done so often that the shortened axle is almost off the shelf.

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Altered_Auto View Post
            Thanks for the advice. I will eventually want to run some accessories but I would like to get it running first. I am going to pick it up next wednesday and i have a few more questions. What kind of oil do they take? It would be nice to have a back up plan in case but I see no issue because the seller said it was one of the better old trucks they have. Also if I buy NOS u-bolts will they have enough meat to add in 3 new leaves? And one more out of left field. What rear axel does the van have? I am assuming a 14 bolt. If so it will go nice in my CJ7:)
            Run 15w40 diesel rated oil of your choice (you get a lot of different opinions, but in reality they are all about the same when you put them in the engine... I am partial to Castrol Agri-Max and Shell Rotella...).

            NOS u-bolts are likely to be short if you add three leafs, just go to your local heavy truck shop with one of your old ones (or measurements) and have them fab up some new ones that are longer. My local Fleetpride (former Stone Heavy Duty) will do a set in about fifteen minuter for around $40 an axle (four u-bolts with nuts/washers)...

            Enjoy.

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            • #66
              Thanks everybody for the help. I am going to get the truck on Wed and I will post some pics of the van and my M37 when I get them. This place is awesome!

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              • #67
                I got the van on wed. Man was that a fun trip in triple didgit heat. I have One more question. Will a smallblock ZF S5-42 botl to the ford adapter plate found in the step vans? I have posted some pictures on my cardomain page http://www.cardomain.com/id/Altered_Auto Thanks eveybody for the help.

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by Altered_Auto View Post
                  Will a smallblock ZF S5-42 botl to the ford adapter plate found in the step vans?
                  Yes, it will...

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                  • #69
                    I think I found my tranny today. It is the Zf S5-42 from a 1989 F250 with a 7.3 liter diesel. It was at a scrapyard close to my house and just arrived there a few days ago. It is goung to run me about $650. I am hoping I can work out a partial trade for the TH400 and maybe the 14 bolt.

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Altered_Auto View Post
                      I think I found my tranny today. It is the Zf S5-42 from a 1989 F250 with a 7.3 liter diesel. It was at a scrapyard close to my house and just arrived there a few days ago. It is goung to run me about $650. I am hoping I can work out a partial trade for the TH400 and maybe the 14 bolt.
                      That's the transmission that I am running behind the 4BT in my M37. You'll like it. :)

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                      • #71
                        I don,t know how i couldn't. The thing is huge and appears to be in good shape. It is caked with dirt and one of the PTO covers leaks but it shifts fine and all the gears work and feel smooth. It takes MERCON ATF right?

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                        • #72
                          Originally posted by Altered_Auto View Post
                          It takes MERCON ATF right?
                          Yep, I run Mercon III in mine, but you can use any of the versions... Another reason why I like mine...

                          The two pin plug on the driver's side of the case is for the backup light switch...

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                          • #73
                            I got my engine out today! I did it my condos parking lot with a basic het of hand tools. Now I have to get it towed away. I am trying to donate it to my school as a project or something they can scrap for cash. I will post pics on my cardomain.com/id/altered_auto page shortly.

                            Now for the question. What is the best way to turn the engine over to remove the flywheel bolts. I know snap on makes a special tool for that application but I would prefer not to buy it. I was thinking about putting the tranny in reverse and using a prybar to turn the output shaft therfore turning the engine. If there is a better way i would like to know about it.

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Altered_Auto View Post
                              Now for the question. What is the best way to turn the engine over to remove the flywheel bolts. I know snap on makes a special tool for that application but I would prefer not to buy it. I was thinking about putting the tranny in reverse and using a prybar to turn the output shaft therfore turning the engine. If there is a better way i would like to know about it.
                              remove clutch cover, use the same prybar you mention or a big flat screwdriver for prying on the flywheel/flexplate teeths against the bellhousing.
                              Piece of cake. (of course somebody will jump on my throat telling itīs not the right thing to do, you can damage the teeths etc etc. but itīs what Iīve doing with my cars/trucks everytime I have to turn the engine)

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                              • #75
                                Or....remove the injectors and turn it over by using a socket on the damper bolt, that's the easiest way.

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