The "Hulk": Ugly green truck to Juneau??

[KRB64]

The wheels aren't hub-centric but centered by the lugs right? So couldn't you ream out the smaller holed wheels to make them fit over the dana 60?

[oldndcctrucks]

1. The tires: Ironman 285/75R16
2. Yes, not hub-centric, so yes, I could try to take out 1/8" all the way around. The best way would be to set up the two rims on a lathe or mill and bore them out; barring that, careful grinding could work, but I would want a 4 3/4" standard to check my work by. Here in California, it's illegal to modify the hub "plate" of a wheel, so there's a bit of a liability issue in case of failure.

The easiest but most expensive is to just replace the wheels and powdercoat them.

[oldndcctrucks]

I mounted the rebuilt carb yesterday, replacing all the vacuum hoses as well. The engine ran BEAUTIFULLY cold, and a little rough hot, so I'm pretty happy for now. I still need to check distributor timing, make all the carb adjustments, and replace the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, so I think this engine will be a winner. Hot oil pressure was about 60 psi at idle; no fluid leaks that I could see. Something was pretty rough on acceleration when I test-drove it around the block (1/4 mile block); not sure if it's poor engine operation or something in the drivetrain.

[KRB64]

Since you haven't checked the timing yet maybe that is what is making for rough acceleration?

I once had acceleration issues that I chased and chased until I finally discovered the distributer had rusted internally and the centrifical weights or what ever you call them had ceased to function. Probably not an issue in your climate...

Hadn't thought of the liability issue of grinding on wheels.

[KRB64]

I looked at my pile of carb parts and the venture tubes look the same diameter. I didn't dig out the torch files but visually they appear the same.

Looking back at your picture, mine looks like the smaller one. Now I'm curious. I'll go dig out the torch brush and see.

Our carbs are slightly different too BTW, yours is the old style with the funky accelerator pump thing that sticks out the top. I have one of those too but not taken it apart ever.

[oldndcctrucks]

Thanks for checking!

In the past couple of days I have mounted a pair of new Grote tail/backup light assemblies (very similar to Jeep taillights), got all the rear lights working, mounted the rear license plate, replaced the fuel pump, and replaced all the fuses (the ones in it were a collection of non-automotive and over-sized). I also cut off a 3/8" x 4" x 23" bar behind the rear axle that was part of a hitch set-up. Also, my brother, whom I bought the truck out from under, got to test-drive it with my nephew and he was happy and impressed.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to replace the fuel hoses related to the gas tank, install an in-line filter, and get a locking gas cap.

Testing the new Carter-brand fuel pump, I noted considerably higher pressure than the old one- I am hoping the rough acceleration may have been due to fuel starvation, and the new pump will cure that! If not, disassembling the distributor to check flyweight condition and setting distributor timing will be next.

There was actual sand, maybe 1/4 teaspoon amount, in the carburetor bowl. Considering the fuel pump had to pass that, I'm surprised the pump did anything at all.

[KRB64]

Don't forget to replace the short section of hose where the fuel line passes through the passenger side frame rail. It makes a short loop there (at least on later 70s) and that bend always eventually cracks and leaks.

[oldndcctrucks]

Cool thanks for the heads-up

[oldndcctrucks]

47.jpg
My brother driving the Hulk...

48.jpg
The back end with lights (still needs a license plate light).

I was replacing fuel hoses for the gas tank, and messing with the non-functional tank level sending unit, when I found that the float was leaking and full of gas...
46.jpg
Squeezing it showed several pin holes. Luckily, there was a used sender on the cab floor- it tested bad electrically, so I swapped the floats and buttoned it up.

The tank had about a gallon of stinky, really old gas in it; I was loathe to suck-siphon a mouthful, so I rigged up a glass jar with a 5/16" hose barb fitting, a few feet of hose, a couple of feet of copper tube, and a small suction hose. I added two gallons of fresh gas to dilute and somewhat wash the old stuff out. Dipping the copper tube to the bottom of the tank, I sucked on the small hose until I got gasoline flowing into the jar and then gravity did the rest.

49.jpg

45.jpg
I only had about a second to recognize the jar was filling up (fast!) but it was enough time to avoid one of the ultimate old car mechanic's banes- gasoline in the mouth! I've siphoned gas a few times in my life, and having gas-flavored burps for an hour or so has become something I just don't want to do ever again.

YES, I should spend a couple of bucks for a plastic squeeze siphon, but I just ain't got there yet.

[KRB64]

Well, I started the carburetor tune-up while waiting for the opportunity to finish the rear brakes, hubs, and wheel re-mounting:

I found one reason the truck ran crappy was the rubber tip on the inlet needle was gone, so there was basically no fuel-fill control, causing flooding.

I have also found that the top cover gasket was the wrong one, the choke pull-back diaphragm was leaking, and the accelerator pump piston cup was worn out.

Anyways, after I disassembled the whole thing, I found that one of the tubes in the venturi cap was different from the other. One took a .045" torch tip cleaner rod, while the other would not take anything larger than .025"...

This seems really wrong to me, as this will cause a big imbalance of air/fuel ratio between half the cylinders compared to the other half!

42.jpg

Anyone able to tell me if this is correct (factory) or not? If correct, WHY???

Thanks!

I checked with my torch files and a "16" was the biggest that would fit and they both were same size. Said it was drill size 58/59, have no idea what any of those numbers equate to...

That old gas may well have been your acceleration problem.

If you want more capacity (or to get the tank out of the cab) add a later model tank. It sits on the left inboard side. And/or a Ram Charger tank that fits in the back where the spare tire is. Not sure how far apart fuel stations are on the trip North.

[oldndcctrucks]

Thanks for checking the tubes!

The plan is to remove the in-cab tank and use a frame-mounted one, hopefully near 30 gallon capacity plus two 5 gallon Jerry cans.

I spent time on this tank to get the truck running for now.

[KRB64]

Have you located a frame-mounted one? Last time I searched for a new sending unit for one all I could find was NOS, which were few & far between. Maybe there are some repros now?

[oldndcctrucks]

Nope, not looking yet.

I am going to get the truck running in safe condition before I start the modifications.

The old sender works Ok with the new float, so I'm good for now.

[oldndcctrucks]

W200 and M1102.jpg
This is a quick Photoshopped image I put together for the family so they can get an idea of the goal.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

This looks great! I could imagine how much fun this will be.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

Thank you for keeping us up to speed on your build. It looks to be coming along very well.