If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Power Wagon T-Shirts are now available for purchase on-line through the Store.
They are only $15.00 each plus shipping.
Shirts are available in sizes from Small thru 4X and are Sand in color.
Design/Logo is printed on the back of the shirts and the front is free of any designs.
Or....remove the injectors and turn it over by using a socket on the damper bolt, that's the easiest way.
Probably safer this way too. A small amount of combustible fluid finds it's way into a cylinder(like oil past a valve seal/guide) and it could light off under compression and give one a nasty surprise while barring over.
No injectors = no compression = no chance of that happening.
One more question as I move along. I pulled down the back of the motor the other day and found a piece pressed into the rear of the crankshaft where my pilot bearing would be. I am using the setup from FordCummins so will I have to get it out or will it be okay in there? If I do have to have to get it out what is the best way to do it
I know its baan a while but I have recently started putting the truck back togather and have run into a few hanging points. 1) I am using the Hydroboost from the stepvan and I am wondering how I can convert the fittings to use the stock M37 lines. 2) I am using the ZF tranny so how do I mount the transfer case shifters and E-ebake. I am sure I will have more over the next few weeks so any insight would be helpful. Check out the progress at http://www.cardomain.com/id/Altered_Auto
Several NAPA and other auto parts stores have the machinery to make up new hydraulic lines to your specs. If not there a local tractor shop can do it.
Before you get everything buttoned up you might want to check crankshaft end thrust. It is a common problem on 4BT's to have the #4 crank bearing fail. To check it you apply pressure to crankshaft backwards & forwards while measuring runout at flywheel with dial indicator. While you're at it you might want to change the timing cover oil seal and throw a new gasket on cover, they're cheap if you shop around. Also rear main seal is easy to change while the tranny is out, also strongly suggested.
One method of removing a pilot bearing is to pack the hole with grease, then use a drift punch of the correct diameter to just fit into pilot bearing center. A few raps with a hammer on drift forces the pilot bearing out by hydraulic pressure. Depending on diameter of your input shaft there were some roller bearing pilots available, such as in Dodge applications.
Suggestion: when you hook up fuel lines use a piece of clear vinyl tubing, diesel rated, between lift pump and end of metal lines. This gives a quick way to check for air in the lines at any time. Also if you have clearance/room Fleetguard has the FS-1221 fuel filter, extra capacity with a water drain on bottom.
If possible it's nice to install a new lift pump right from the start. They're relatively inexpensive, I paid around $60. Though a 4BT with a Bosch VE Injection Pump will run without a lift pump a failed diaphragm pump will DNF you. Again, cheap insurance. I've got a part # for lift pump if you need it.
My thoughts:
1) I don't remember the part numbers, but my local parts house has a large selection of adapter fittings that can be used between the M/C and the lines. Last time I did a M/C conversion, I had a couple fittings from a kit that Ray Suiter had sent out as rally door prizes. I think that Ray has the NAPA part numbers on his website... The M/C that was used with the hydroboost in the P30 van that I snagged my last Cummins out of had the same fittings as the non-boosted Bendix 1584 (1980 Chevy C30) M/C that I run in my truck...
2) I fabricated a bracket out of 1/8" plate stock, some angle iron, and a couple of spacers cut from large diameter rod stock that comes off my transmission cross member for use in mounting the t-case shift levers and the e-brake handle.
Hollar if you need a better description. I'm running a ZF S5-42 behind the 4BT in my truck with the stock transfer case...
I know its baan a while but I have recently started putting the truck back togather and have run into a few hanging points. 1) I am using the Hydroboost from the stepvan and I am wondering how I can convert the fittings to use the stock M37 lines. 2) I am using the ZF tranny so how do I mount the transfer case shifters and E-ebake. I am sure I will have more over the next few weeks so any insight would be helpful. Check out the progress at http://www.cardomain.com/id/Altered_Auto
A little thread piracy here, but is that fuel shutoff solenoid fix still working out okay? Ran into another guy that had the same problem, so that's 3! I'm still push-button start, and simply got to liking it.
A little thread piracy here, but is that fuel shutoff solenoid fix still working out okay? Ran into another guy that had the same problem, so that's 3! I'm still push-button start, and simply got to liking it.
The new solenoid that you located for me is working just fine so I'm using my push button for starting as well. I did pick up a "pull to stop" cable that is used on the military 2.5 ton trucks (M35A2 or M35A2C) with the multifuel engine and have already mounted it in my M37. Next time that the solenoid gives me problems, it's comming out and I'll just plug the spot (will use a solenoid with the plunger removed). That way, I'll eleminate having to have power for the engine to run... Meanwhile, the "pull to stop" cable is extra insurance in case it doesn't want to shut down when I turn off the power feed.
Thanks foe the help everybody. A few more questions. Can somebody post a link to the brake line adapters and a pic of the shifter set up. I just ordered my adapter plate so im about to get back into the project so any help would be greatly appreciated.
It's best on a large multi-page thread to re-state exactly what parts you're inquiring about again, so folks don't have to thumb back through 6 pages to find out. You get more replies that way.
I'll suggest again to check some of your local sources to have one or the other hose ends converted as needed, less chance of leakage and the less fittings the better, especially on brakes. Lots more vibration can occur in a 4BT truck, sometimes with unpleasant results.
Tweet
Comment