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  • Originally posted by Alxj64 View Post
    It is now only good for the marketplace, which is actually dwindling down with sales numbers and the fees they keep bumping up are making it not worth it anymore either.
    WOW, wasn't aware they had enacted fees to MarketPlace, but it should not surprise me.
    I drive a DODGE, not a ram!

    Thanks,
    Will
    WAWII.com

    1946 WDX Power Wagon - "Missouri Mule"
    1953 M37 - "Frankenstein"
    1993 Jeep YJ - "Will Power"
    1984 Dodge Ramcharger - "2014 Ramcharger"
    2006 3500 DRW 4WD Mega Cab - "Power Wagon Hauler"

    Comment


    • Alxj64
      Alxj64 commented
      Editing a comment
      Will, Yep... Once you sell a few things and "admit" that its sold on FB MP... They lock your account from listing and responding until you establish a sellers account, and then they charge a few on anything you sell that might need to be shipped or if its over a certain price. Also, they will not show your items in people's feeds after a while unless you pay to "boost" the listing. It is done to more active sellers. Its a racket.

  • Taking the air from the outside and running it inside. I wanted to stop taking the warm air from under the hood and instead bring it in from the outside. I considered a snorkel and custom air box , but elected to go this way instead. I sized the canister to the Donaldson specs, the unit seems a bit too large to me but after buying this one I am not about to change it. On a stock hood there are 3 sets of louvers, I removed the middle one and sectioned it to the rear louver to balance out where the inlet pipe goes into the hood. A bit of green and black paint followed by a wet sand should have it looking pretty much stock. I have not gotten around to finishing the opening. I seem to have run out of 1/4 inch rod. The hood is still easy to open.IMG_1712.jpg

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    • Matthew Welcher PWA
      Matthew Welcher PWA commented
      Editing a comment
      That is fantastic Bruce, what did you notice drive ability wise post this conversion?

  • I can not attribute the increase in torque and performance with the addition of outside air because I added compound turbos at the same time that I did the air filter mod. Up in Canada getting parts is more difficult and costly than in the US - when I was in the middle of the compound turbo mod I was wondering if it was worth the effort and aggravation. The first time out I was pleased with the result. The truck was quieter and I found I did not have to down shift on some hills where I did so in the past. It has not made a huge difference but enough that I can feel it. Long hills are still an issue. 22 - 25 lbs of manifold pressure are now the norm. The exhaust burns cleaner but I think oil consumption is up a tad as well. When I pulled the pan off to modify it for a return line I found the cleanest pan I had ever seen on a used engine. 65,000 miles and no sludge or muck at all. One little piece of plastic and that was it.

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    • IMG_1715.JPG IMG_1716.JPG
      If you are considering running compound turbos there are a few myths and misleading things out there worth thinking about. One of them is the idea that your second turbo will run just fine with the stock oil pump. When hot in the bush at low RPM my oil pressure would drop to 20 PSI maybe 18 with the single turbo. I am quite sure the pressure would have been close to half that if I added a second turbo and no upgraded oil pump. I used a stock 6 bt oil pump that moves about 30 % more oil than the 4 bt pump. I did not go for a high pressure model. What I used was a Melins 251. With two turbos the start up cold oil pressure is about 70 PSI and running at speed with hot oil it runs around 45 - 50 lbs oil pressure - hot at idle 550 RPM the pressure drops to about 22 PSI oil pressure. So with the addition of a higher volume pump I ended up with oil pressure a couple of lbs over stock. 2 to 4 PSI is what I have seen.
      The top photo is where I removed the oil pressure sensor and added a new feed line. The bottom photo is the feed into the second turbo. I put a restrictor in that adapter that is the same diameter as a stock adapter . Holset regulates the oil flow through the adapters internal sizing - far as I could determine. I figure they know what they are doing and I would do the same.

      take care
      Bruce

      Comment


      • The other myth is that you do not need to worry about the drain diameter. That 8 AN or 10 AN drain will work just fine. It took a lot of digging, but Holset has that big 12 AN return line for a reason and going lower diameter can result in blown oil seals in the turbo. I used 12 AN fittings but to be honest I really wanted to just weld a tube with a flair to the oil pan. Nothing like that around here and by the time I did get to a big truck dismantle yard I had bought the material for the drain. ( of course the yard had bins of oil return lines) I pulled the pan and welded in a steel bung that I machined to make as light as possible and opened up the inside diameter - there is a lot of different internal diameters with these fittings. A lot of twin turbo mods on you tube show guys JB welding the bung in place - just the thing to fail 600 miles from home.
        edit: there is road grime on that oil pan, this will never do.
        edit #2 that wire going to the pan connects to a oil temp sensor.
        Attached Files

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        • Matthew Welcher PWA
          Matthew Welcher PWA commented
          Editing a comment
          Bruce, what gave you the idea for the compound turbo set up? Was it a quest for more power or the inner notion of I need to do this because I can?
          Either way it is fascinating and I really enjoy seeing your modifications come to life.
          Your machine is truly Awesome!

      • I went for compound turbos for a number of reasons.
        (1) black smoke - my engine still made black smoke when accelerating with the single turbo, I figured the only way to get rid of it was to cram more air into the engine and burn that fuel.
        (2) lower exhaust gas temps on hills
        (3) the truck is underpowered and a absolute dog on long uphill grades
        (4) fuel milage
        This was all theory - when I went from the HC1 Holset with the 18cm exducer to the HX30 with the 6cm exducer the exhaust temps went down, the manifold pressures went up and the exhaust got cleaner - my thought was that a second turbo would help a bit more as long as they were matched to some degree.
        I will add a bit more on the compound turbo build today or tomorrow.

        Comment


        • My EGTs are cranking on hard pulls. Maybe I need to look into compounds and a cooler air source. I am pulling from down low inside the wheel well for now, until I can get the systems cleaned up. I was still battling transmission issues up until I stopped driving it right before the divorce. I am yanking the body back off and pulling the transmission later this spring once I am done moving in.

          Here is a video of mine out and about. I am SOOO happy at how well this thing drives.



          https://youtu.be/m4934G9Pxdw

          1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

          Comment


          • With the stock turbo the EGTs would keep climbing and I would have to back off at 1200 degrees, and this would be with partial throttle, I once had a brain **** and saw 1450 or close. I have to work really hard to get past 1100 degrees and have not had to back off the pedal with the compounds on any hill. Every engine is different, I did back off the boost screw 1/4 turn at some point and considering the instant spool and how quickly it goes to 22 psi I am not about to return it to stock. I am considering going to a 3000 rpm governor spring in an effort to help the speed going up hills. But I can just down shift and keep the RPM range at 2100 - 2300 and climb the hill in the sweet spot. Trouble is that is quite often in third gear :)
            Transmission - I need to get at mine too. The rear is cracked. I do not want to do the job. Also I am wondering if I should toss in a new clutch or run it for another 30,000 miles - it was a used clutch but it had a ton of meat on it. Fun video. I need to figure out how to do that.

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            • Just did my first oil change with the compound turbos. Although i can see the filter it is next to impossible to get a wrench on it. The turbo piping on the intake side needs to be removed. Then it is easy to get a wrench on and remove the filter. All of this is accessible from the top. Pictures - what is the deal with pictures? Last week they popped up with the writing now all there is is a dumb link thingie.
              Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1721.JPG Views:	9 Size:	80.3 KB ID:	190389

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              • That is the HX35 turbo you see in the picture. I canted it about 15 degrees in relation to the motor. In most applications the turbo runs parallel to the engine but there is no reason to do so. As long as the turbo is close to level you can place it were ever it fits best in a given space. That is a used turbo - there is no movement in the turbine wheel - I need to pop the pressure pipe off and check for oil leaks - amazing there were no pressure leaks from day one. That is a 12cm or 9 cm exducer - without a waste gate. The hot pipe in the upper left hand corner was made with a couple of elbows from flowcore and some pipe from a trailer at the local wreckers.
                This rubber fitting is a Cobra head fitting that came off some kind of Cat application - it is one of those pieces that made this turbo set up possible.

                Weird - I can see these pictures but not the ones up thread. I do not like this situation.
                edit: I went back a page and could see the pictures, when I came back to this page ....I could see the pictures. That is weird because I rebooted the page a couple of times and all I got was a jpeg link. I am happy now :)
                IMG_1722.JPG

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                • Got a weird one for you - I changed my oil to 10 - 30 diesel oil from shell from some 15 - 40 weight oil, and my oil pressure went up a few lbs. The only thing I can figure out is the change in filters must have something to do with it - now running a Baldor - was running a Lubrafiner.. OIL temp and water temp and RPM are the same when the observations were made.

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