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  • Heres a good outside video of mine cruising by my sister-in-law's Jeep. Despite the truck eating another Allison (roaring and chattering again), I decided to haul it up to a family reunion event and drive it around where I grew up some.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx8RvCrnZcX/
    1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

    Comment


    • That was good enough that I watched it twice:). I am sorry to hear that you have to deal with a second trannie going south. Trust me I know what it feels like - second turbo, second head, second set of tires, second water pump, second pulley mt, third hydroboost, third master cylinder, third fuel sender, second alternator, third light switch and a whole new review camera system that worked on the bench but not in the truck, second drive shaft, second set of front springs, third volt meter and I am sure there are some items I am missing. This sort of thing is normal but it gets old very
      quickly. Jim had a few issues and teething problems with his truck too. And the brake issue on mine ain't fixed yet.
      But are we having fun?
      I hit the link to jim's blog and it did not work - is there a different link, I will need to take the old one down.
      f8402f80f4d94ea5ae6fad9d191962b5.jpg
      Attached Files

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      • Just took the truck out for a spin. The brakes now work and they work better than they ever have. The bore on the old callipers is 2 3/8 the bore on the new callipers is closer to 3 inches. The stopping distance is now quite a bit shorter, I need to play with the proportioning valve to get them set up right. I never saw a drop of brake fluid on the rear wheel or tire but I suspect it had been leaking for quite awhile and allowed air to get into the rear brake system. The new master cylinder seems to be working fine and hopefully the leaks around the MC seal have stopped now that I have gone with a different design. The paint on the frame and chassis is now a mess. I will pressure wash it, touch up a few spots and run it as is until the end of the season. An oil change and a bit of tinkering and I will be in a position to take a few trips. A real pain in the hoo hoo getting this straightened around.
        take care out there
        Bruce.

        Comment


        • Desoto61
          Desoto61 commented
          Editing a comment
          Glad you got it figured out, but maybe I missed something, are the new calipers for a different application to be a bigger bore size?

        • Bruce in BC
          Bruce in BC commented
          Editing a comment
          The old callipers came off the butt end of a 78 Cadillac, the new callipers are from the front end of a 73-81 Chev 3/4 ton 4x4. The Chev callipers are the ones that most kits use when converting from drums to discs on dana 60 and 14 bolt axles.

      • Got the back up camera working again. I use it more as a rear view mirror than for back up. The first camera was full of water so I ordered a replacement, it did not work so I got another - it did not work either. So I went into my whole system, changed the wiring, ran it a different way and eliminated a splice, after all that it still did not work. While I was mucking with the wiring I sat on the monitor. Yep I broke it. Nothing changed when I replaced the monitor so on the off chance I got two poopy cameras I ordered a third. And the system now works as it should.
        I still have a driveline vibration at 60 - 75 miles an hour. Pretty sure it is a tire that needs balancing. I am going to the tire store and find out if they know what the weight of the balance beads were that they placed in the tires. Lots of stuff still needs to be tweaked, but the truck is back to a leak free vehicle.
        Outside air compared to engine bay air - looks like you lose about 10% hp and about the same in torque. I think I need to deal with that.

        take care
        Bruce

        Comment


        • Moved the vibration a little but but not much. Around the 62 mph mark the vibration kicks in and the shifters rattle from side to side quite quickly. But I can go down hill at 70 and there is no vibration. I suspect the issue with the vibration is not unbalanced tires but harmonics from the engine. The only way I can see to get past that would be to balance the engine.
          That is not about to happen any time soon.
          Engine still overheats 210 degree when crawling up long hills. I think I need to get rid of the trapped air in the engine bay.

          Comment


          • So I took the truck out on a call out today. Had to drive over 100 miles so I thought I would do a test on the cooling system. It actually cools fine over 40 miles an hour it just does not like long hills or crawling. interesting enough I was digging around on some specs and came across a report that said that 4 core radiators may cool better with a pusher fan. the article went as far as showing tests where a push r fan moved more air through the radiator than a similar puller fan with shroud. This was news to me but the more i dug into it the more cars I found where a pusher fan solved an overheating issue. Some use only the pusher fan and some folks end up using both the pusher and puller fans, I may end up with a pusher fan _ I will let you know what the results are when I get around to doing the install.
            Callout? Lets just say a life jacket would mean that the subject would be alive today.

            Take care out there
            Bruce

            edit - had a guy with am M37 drop by and ask "would you mind if I called you and asked how to go about doing some stuff on my truck?" How could I refuse? I will introduce him to this sight and one other- if he ever calls:)

            Comment


            • Man I love a 98 to 1 crawl ratio. Climbed a decommissioned road yesterday and they had pulled a bridge and dug some tank traps. All of this and an up hill grade. The truck crawled up that stuff with ease. I took a few rock samples and crawled back out, but as the return trip was down hill I put the crawl box in high gear and left the NP205 in low gear.
              I have not added a new pusher fan yet. I dropped by my local parts place to pick up my fan and found it was one of those pretend chrome jobs. I just can not see how that would look good in front of the WC53's radiator. Waiting for them to bring in a Flexalite unit. Going on a trip in a couple of weeks, we were going to cut through Washington to Victoria but that changed and we seem to be headed over in a different vehicle. Then it is off to Bella Coola or Jasper - not sure which.

              vvvaarrroooooooooooommmmmmmmmm

              edit - I have a working front camera too. It peeks over the front bumper. I am not sure how much help it will be but it should help a bit when driving by brail.

              edit #2 If you are going electric fan look at Spall, I gather some new Volvos have an electric OEM fan that moves 4500 CFM. That might be the way to go, that is some serious air.
              Last edited by Bruce in BC; 07-17-2019, 09:40 PM.

              Comment


              • Evnin' gents.

                Was driving my Carryall about yesterday. Don't recall where, but at some point I ended up doing something that was twisting the frame a bit and.. It suddenly hit me. The frames on these things are pretty flexible. The body on mine, when I opened it up, had just about every mount to the frame broken. The body itself has signs that its been breaking up for a long time. Old welds etc. What's going on in thee?

                I think the deal is the canvas roof. I think the canvas roof design allows the body to flex with the frame. Mine has a sheetmetal insert welded into the roof cut out and I bet that's why mine has so much body damage. Welding up the roof cutout makes the body too rigid and it starts breaking up.

                Just thought I'd share that thought with you-all.

                -jim lee

                Comment


                • Good to know you are still alive Jim.
                  I am packing today for a week long trip - I think I will hit Blow down pass and some other areas. Lots of cooking going on because of my diet grabbing food along the way is not much of an option. I have been through the Carryall and have done some upgrades and replaced a few things too.
                  One thing to avoid when driving channel frame trucks is to not cross ditches at a diagonal. If you do then the body will crack. My mid 70 Chev has gone through about 6 rad supports, they all cracked due to frame twist, there are also two dents in the cab about 4 inches above the box. This is where the box and cab meet when the frame twists. years ago we measured the amount of twist when I had backed up an incline to load some rocks. The twist was 14 inches, which sounds absurd - I have pictures around somewhere.
                  I did a few things on the Carryall to help stop the twisting and flex- no cracks to date. The top of the rear opening had some big cracks and the bottom corners of the front window was cracked as well.
                  I swear my truck is getting louder, not sure why - the timing has not changed. I will toss off some pictures when I get back.
                  What happened to your blog? You pull it or what?

                  Take care
                  Bruce

                  Comment


                  • Dave Brownlow <wyo2gus@gmail.com>
                    5:02 PM (0 minutes ago)
                    to Power
                    Hello Jim,

                    What Bruce said...

                    I thought I might add a word or three, or at the very least, muddy the waters.

                    I am thinking that there could be combined influence of decaying body mounts and severe wracking of the chassis. Not that anyone would abuse one of these fine seasoned vehicles, no...

                    My concern is, if there has been enough frame-twisting action happening to tear the sheet metal, might there also be some frame damage occurring as well? I am wondering if you have poked around, looking to assess the general structural integrity, particularly around the areas where x-members and main frame rails intersect.

                    You are correct that there is quite a bit of twist in these frames. A solid frame, free-moving spring pins / spring-eye bushings, and good body mounts will go along way towards relieving body panel issues. My experience is primarily centered around the 1-ton civilian Power Wagon, so I haven't had to deal with the long-body issues that you enjoy, but I thought I'd stir pot.

                    If you have access to back-issues of the PWA magazine, there is a 2-part piece on this topic that may be of some service.*

                    Best of luck!

                    Dave

                    * PWA February 2004 "Lessons Learned" Part 1 and PWA March 2004 "Lessons Learned" Part 2
                    1949 B-1 PW (Gus)
                    1955 C-3 PW (Woodrow)
                    2001 Dodge 2500 (Dish...formerly Maney's Mopar)
                    1978 Suzuki GS1000EC (fulfills the need...the need for speed)
                    1954 Ford 860 tractor
                    1966 Chrysler LS 16 sailboat (as yet un-named)
                    UVA UVAM VIVENDO VARIA FITS

                    Comment


                    • I'm thinking that the damage I'm seeing happened before the body mounts decayed. This is all old damage and there is a bunch. Lower rear door corners, body mount cross members. Its like doing Archeology work. "What happened here? What went wrong?" Its kinda' fun. Like when I found the books behind the body panel.

                      As for the blog links.. Had a computer issue, lost a bunch of the source for the original blog pages. BUT I was able to put up a copy that you can see, just not edit anymore. At least not easily.

                      The link to the beginning of the blog : https://www.eskimo.com/~jimlee/old%2...quiring...html Its there. you can read it. I can't do much with it as the stuff that created it is gone.

                      The new blog (Part II) is here : https://www.eskimo.com/~jimlee/Home/...yall_Blog.html This one is still editable. Just not done anything worth adding to it. I did the home made cell phone and between the truck and the phone, I was completely burnt out. Luckily the Carryall has been exemplary and reliable as I "get well". Did a rioad trip to Montana (Wife's 4Runner) then we got board and took a cruise to Alaska. Just got a first prototype automatic watering system running this evening. Using a pump, processor and moisture sensor to hold a moisture setting for seedlings. So I'm starting to feel like my old self again.

                      Bruce, where's this trip your heading out on going to? And, what kind of Diet are we talking about?

                      -jim lee

                      Comment


                      • that was a good trip - except for the scary upsetting part.

                        Day one - Camped near Joffrey Mt and listened to ice fall all night long.

                        Day two - went up to Blow down pass, did some mild hiking into the bowl and start of the Stein - wanted to climb Gott and Gotyah ( whatever they are called )- but a minor injury (old scab right where the tongue of my hiking boot touches) prevented that. It was high enough to have frozen ice that night

                        Day three - Camped way up a hill at Phare creek - near Enterprise creek outside of Lillooet - I climbed here in the past, we got in via a new logging area, perfect for truck camping. Got a walk in but no hike - the Alpine was like 30 minutes away.

                        Day four - up Molyidinum creek - this proved to be a mistake - no where to turn around, we were off camber with a big drop off, road was very narrow and I had no way out until we got to he lake. Plan was to stay several days but after one night I needed to get out of there while the road was dry. Carolyn walked out, we averaged 1.2 miles an hour, and there were areas that were flat and safe - which means I must have driven at 1/2 a mile an hour for a good few miles. When I say borrow I am talking a foot wider than the truck, with a big nasty drop off that is wide open and most of the road is off camber - I do not like off camber - 15 degrees is enough to make me uncomfortable but the 30 degree spots was over the top.

                        Day five. - Drove out from Moly lake - took about 5hrs and we spent the night at Seton Hydro camp.

                        Day six - visited my brother in Barrier

                        Day seven - truck camped at Green lake

                        Day eight - elected to do a bomber run home.

                        You know that turbo whistle that some folks seem to like - I have it and I want it gone. No silencer ring - never had one. I will add one of I can figure out what it looks like.


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                        • IMG_0528.jpg
                          BC parks licence plate - can I make a Pattington bear out of this?

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                          • I am thinking of driving up to Jasper via Kamloops and then heading down from Jasper to Banff after that puttering on home via one route or another - no big side slopes on that trip. Jim's Carryall might be faster than mine on the hills :). Also had an invitation to head out for a few weeks in the back country.... I turned it down because of one side hill that i did not want to do and no one new if there was a work around.
                            IMG_0538.jpg
                            Greetings from blow down pass . this is a shade over 6500 ft. Some one needs to do some exercise and work his atomic muscles.
                            Diet? pretty much eating compost - no milk , no sugar, no red meat.

                            Comment


                            • What an adventure! Off camber, getting narrower and.. Of course there's a death drop on at least one side. I HATE those!

                              -jim lee

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