1948 power wagon project

[texcwa]

I just finished all my glass replacement and door weather-stripping, what a job. Got the last pieces done last weekend, the door bottom gaskets and the new cowl vent gasket. Installed the sliding door glass with doors off and flat on work bench, so much easier. The only parts I could not get in are the small rubber bumpers/spacers that mount on inside (Cab Side) of crank door windows on door frame, see pic below. The exterior strip was installed prior to dropping glass and rail in but just don't seem to have enough room to get those bumpers/spacers in. Did you get your in? Suggestions? Do you install with thick edge at top or bottom?

Screenshot 2019-02-10 17.03.jpg

[Todd M]

You are welcome. Just putting last window door sweep in. Glad it helped.

I did not try without the box and both took a lot of pressure to put in. Wish I had the windshield out so I could of leaned out of it to put all of my weight on it.

[texcwa]

Thanks Tod. I have my lid attached with new springs but one side is loose so I was wondering if I had it right. Maybe after installing box it will be tighter, if not, may just need to get some channel locks on cab opening and give it a little tweek where the clip attaches.

[Todd M]

2E7328CA-14EC-4954-8EB6-ABAAB25D6719.jpeg Texcwa
here is a photo of where mine is latched onto.
Todd

[texcwa]

Just curious if you Matt or Tod (anyone) has a pic looking up under dash and on lid showing where these spring clips attach to? No rush since I do not have box yet and am shoveling snow.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

On the glove box springs when I put them on, I fish them through the bottom of the square glove box holes, hook them to the slots on the hinge and slowly close the door and let them hang.
Then I use a pretty beefy set of 10 in slip joint pliars, With both hands i squeeze tight and pull it forwards towards me and hook it on the dash. It can be tricky but after a coupe dozen times it does get easier.

[Todd M]

Been putsing around on the truck. Largest accomplishment was replacing the rear seal on the transfer case.

Instaling the seal proved to be an issue with the shaft. I suppose having proper tools would work better but I found a couple boards with holes drilled in them allowed me to tap the seal in evenly. The speedi-sleeve install I found to be the easiest part of the process.

[texcwa]

Thanks for the info, I am still waiting for the box, need to prime and paint (but may not get to that right away, just got a ft of snow and more expected tomorrow) then I may be back in touch if I get into any issues.

[Todd M]

Texcwa - the method I found to install the glove box springs was the following
1 - use a long thin screw driver to pry the spring from underneath the glove box towards the front of the cab.
2 - apply serious amounts of pressure to the spring top while prying. A 2x4 to help apply the pressure would be helpful unless you have steel palms.

Best of luck.

[texcwa]

Thanks for the info and offer. I placed an order from VPW on Monday for a new glove box. Was told that the glove box springs can be a bit of an issue to install with box in, it's easy without. Guess I will find out in a week or two

[Todd M]

Texcwa
I had an original cardboard glove box. Not to sure of the exact composition but it seemed very flimsy, could have been due to age or just what they were back then. I bought one from VPW and it fit beautifully. I just had to drill holes at the top for the 4 screws that go in. That is where I went wrong on - to large of a hole was drilled for one.

I do do not have the tools to bend sheet metal besides my hammer or cut it very easily. If i did I would have made an attempt at it. The hardest part would have been then cutting out the squares where the glove box ‘springs’ run thru.

If you want to attempt one on your own let me know and I can shoot you some measurements and more photos. I still have the best original glove box from one of my trucks if you would like.

[texcwa]

Tod, Thats the one thing I still do not have in my cab "a glove box". did you have one with the truck?, buy one from VPW? or make your own?.

[Todd M]

Glove box work is almost finished.

Removal of the 3 screws on the bottom that hold the door on did not go so well. I basically waited until install to remove them. Middle screw had to be cut out and I thought I would just add a flat piece of steel with a nut welded on the bottom.

Replacement did not go so well. After cutting a section out I had to clean out the insect nests inside. I could only imagine that would be a surprise if they were alive and came out driving down the road.

Welding of the plate was way more difficult than anticipated in the tight spot and mostly done blind. Here is the 2nd attempt with primer. As it will go unnoticed I decided to live with it.

Will have to work on one of the top screws as you can see it. I wonder if it can go without since it has 3 others. Had to use a much larger one due to the hole size I drilled in that spot.
D1952FD4-94EC-4262-BAE5-59B4E536691A.jpegCEEF0C4A-FE61-4B91-9BBE-331D9A9A6DCB.jpegD4075D73-292E-4774-BA6F-02C72DF4D2F9.jpeg6DAFCCEC-8512-4DE6-A93A-1E2A94F336D5.jpeg

[Todd M]

03CEE923-8E41-4719-AF57-A47A576704A1.jpeg10AA96B8-C0D9-4FF3-BE44-BF4E9A706561.jpegBC0A4434-ADE5-41DA-B8E1-32C739A52C0A.jpeg Hopefully all leaks are fixed except for the transfer case leak.

I have run run wires to the rear taillights, built a crude battery hold down strap, prepped the steel glove box for install, powder coated several more parts - redid the inside of the glove box to Army Tan as I noticed during the prep of it realized a lighter shade inside would be of great benefit unless I installed a light.

Rear window has been installed - wish they were all this easy. Vent windows screwed into place, Window regulators have been installed and one window has been set in channel tape before I ran out of tape. One headlight has been rebuilt.

[Todd M]

It has been awhile since my last post.

Fenders have been mounted. Fluids checked again and my oldest and I took the truck out for a test drive New Years Eve. I made it around the neighborhood loop ~1 mile. No issues besides getting it into 3rd ever so often. My done then drove it around the loop so we are up to 2 miles. He had a terrible time getting it into 3rd. Feeling good we went for a third lap. Made it 1/4 of the way and it died. Tried multiple times without luck and found I had run out of gas which suprised me as I had 3-4 gallons in it a couple month prior to get the engine running. So either evaporation from not having a filler neck installed at this time or it is burning extremely rich would could explain some of the smoke it puts out.

What I found out while waiting for my son to get back with my truck is that my water pump had a leak, A pretty good leak of oil around my mechanical fuel pump that the fan then was blowing everywhere and several other oil leaks at the oil filter. After getting it back into the garage the next bay I noticed a leak from the rear seal of the transfer case that only started since the trips around the block.

To replace the water pump I decided to remove the front clip as one piece. It has been said that two men can do it. Well they both must be built like the Gronk as the three of us had quite the time. Maybe it was also not meant to be done with a PW with a winch.

Tips if if someone else decides to do it this way

- when radiator is drained remove the plug as my interference with the cross member
- fan blade has to be removed at this point so the fan shroud has clearance. I probably could have replaced the water pump without removing the front clip but it did not register with me.
- remove the inner fender support vs the single bolt that ties it together this is due to trying to get the inner fender back in place on install.
What was worse was the chip that occurred on the drivers bumper when my son was attempting to clear it. If that was the only scratch or chip since being painted it would be one thing but I have several from working in a tight garage on multiple projects.