1948 power wagon project

[Todd M]

2A31A658-04E1-4B41-AF90-8716C289E616.jpeg3DC2BC15-3204-4E55-B0E3-3E77396B3FBE.jpeg Drivers side - needs to be lowered slightly to match the truck contour better76776773-1157-4ABF-8571-1D02524A1EFE.jpeg

[texcwa]

Texcwa
I was hoping to have the crank installed today but my compressor could not keep up with my sand blasting of all the window pieces and regulators yesterday so they got painted today and are drying. It did take a little getting the glass out of one of the wing vents which I hoped to reuse.

Plans are to get the windshield crank in on Monday. It was one of the pieces I had to paint as the chrome was not the best where it attached to the windshield. My windshield currently has a gap at the bottom but I thought that would be solved with the crank or at least I was hoping. I’ll post back tomorrow night.

Any tricks to the installation of the door windows? I have a pile of weather stripping that needs to go in that when I disassembled the truck were missing. So I have a big jigsaw puzzle at the moment. Oddly enough I looked at the wing vent gaskets which led me to taking the pieces apart even further. The ones on the truck were cut to install as two pieces vs one. That was about the only thing that I caught before It bit me in my back side.

Todd

Todd

I just replaced all 7 pieces of glass with new (green tinted like newer cars) laminated safety glass. As you know, the rear is a breese, I set the wing and side windows with silicone sealant using thin silicone sheet shims at both sides (in glazing channel) and let them set for a week before installing (I preset the glass, taped off to edge of glazing pocket and taped frames so to control the sealant from getting everywhere) I then removed the glass (with tape on it exposing only the edges that come in contact with sealant) filled the glazing pockets with sealant and re-installed glass tooling off all excess sealant. I do have a couple of things to think about.

When I set the wing glass in, I did not verify the dimension between top and bottom (at outer edge) so after the sealant cured and I went to install the wing into its weather-stripping frame, the wing had opened up a bit and I could not close. Had to cut out the glass on drivers side and re-set.

As for the window install, they say to install the large runner channel prior to dropping in the window. This made it difficult to install the bottom rail into the sliding rail from the crank mechanism. I found that I had to remove the runner channel, get the bottom of glass rail into crank then re-install the channel. This channel is easy to get in and out with glass in place. I also had to take a wood block, cut the end into a large wedge form and hammer into runner channel its full length to open up a bit so that the window would operate freely. Needs lots of grease on weatherstripping of this channel.

As for the front window, maybe you could take a pic or two of the outside lower corners (upper corners may be helpful also) so I can see how muck compression you have. I will do the same when I get back from a work trip I am on. Thanks for the offer on the call and if I get fed up with this I may just take you up on it.

[Todd M]

Windshield hand crank was almost installed completely. The two screws that attach crank to to windshield were unable to be seated fully but it was able to pull the windshield in. The weatherstripping sits around the windshield which surprised me as I was expecting to have to make adjustments.

[Todd M]

Texcwa
I was hoping to have the crank installed today but my compressor could not keep up with my sand blasting of all the window pieces and regulators yesterday so they got painted today and are drying. It did take a little getting the glass out of one of the wing vents which I hoped to reuse.

Plans are to get the windshield crank in on Monday. It was one of the pieces I had to paint as the chrome was not the best where it attached to the windshield. My windshield currently has a gap at the bottom but I thought that would be solved with the crank or at least I was hoping. I’ll post back tomorrow night.

Any tricks to the installation of the door windows? I have a pile of weather stripping that needs to go in that when I disassembled the truck were missing. So I have a big jigsaw puzzle at the moment. Oddly enough I looked at the wing vent gaskets which led me to taking the pieces apart even further. The ones on the truck were cut to install as two pieces vs one. That was about the only thing that I caught before It bit me in my back side.

Todd

[texcwa]

Todd, I reinstalled my windshield last weekend, actually it was my last glass replacement (all new glass) just wish the wing, sides and windshield glass went in as easy as the rear. The only issue I am having now is the adjustments to the front windshield. I can not get it to close all the way at bottom. The weather-stripping is only making light contact at bottom and not flaring out at all like the sides and top. If I push out the hinges a bit at top so to relieve some pressure, I find that the upper corners of weather-stripping want to fold in when closing. Did you have any adjustment issues and how tight did you get the bottom weather-stripping to set. Note, I even had my wife pushing in at center bottom while I cranked in.

[Todd M]

Windshield is in!
the lower right corner came out while putting it back in I scratched the paint in that corner.

lioking at the photos i need need to give the truck a bath.

i also was able to sand blast the drum, prime and paint it today along with putting clear on the transmission cover that was only painted long ago

[Todd M]

I have been working on the windshield for several evenings and well I have it ready for installation. I struggled to remember how they were attached when I could not find the photos in my folder for a guide My son reminded me of the hinge pieces and then I almost had a heart attack when I could not find the them. I finally located two sets in my junk but keep boxs and quickly sand blasted, primed and painted the only two operable ones so that I will be ready to install the windshield this weekend.

[Todd M]

Matthew thanks for the help yesterday. As always you are a source of knowledge, keep me out of trouble and pointed in the right direction.

Gracias de nuevo.
Todd

[Todd M]

46974D39-1831-43BA-A736-4664BC538044.jpegF010314C-CBAB-4163-8CEF-635182938259.jpeg Help needed

This lock ring for the PTO shaft is to be locked how tight/close to the femal splined slip yoke?

[Todd M]

D67C78DE-586C-4253-9A25-0ECEBE1759DD.jpeg398B10BE-890C-49E2-977C-2AAF510FC980.jpeg Bumper is back on minus the drum. Still have the issue of the drum shaft not extending past the drum shaft bracket. Will live with this as it will be used once - to spool cable on. Treated the rust yhat I had on the drum shaft but would like a more permanent solution vs grease.

[Todd M]

Painted the last two items today. Hopefully it will be back on the truck tomorrow minus the drum. 6428F0CE-989B-41F1-AFD9-45D1906C120B.jpeg

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

Todd Once it is assembled, that shaft turns hard, as in all I can do to put both hands on it and turn it, meaning the large drum shaft. There are not any shims but if need be you can double up gaskets. As far as the clutch dog it should move really easily once the fork is installed. At times I have had to use a file to make things fit just right.

[Matthew Welcher PWA]

As far as operating the winch, It is something that I don't like to do by myself. Inside the cab you have the PTO Lever itself, depending on how the cable is wound around the drum makes a difference on which way the lever spools the cable. The pto lever has 3 positions, In, neutral and out.
Up on the winch you have the engage and disengage fork that moves the clutch dog in and out from the drum itself.
Now here is what I do when I am using the winch, I will disengage the clutch fork so it will freespool of the drum, the lever inside the cab must be in the neutral position to do this.
Then you can stretch the cable to whatever you want to connect to, leave yourself a little slack.
Walk back to the truck and use the fork itself to engage the clutch dog into the drum. The slack is needed because it never fails that you need to rock the drum one way or another to engage it.
Then hop in the truck, and operate the winch from the inside, via the clutch and the pto lever that comes up through the floor.
I try and never engage and disengage the winch while the winch itself is in an operable position, as a rule while turning you wont be able to force the clutch fork into or out of position while under a load.
On the LE Myers late WM300's they had an engine kill switch on the front of the grill. This was in case you needed to shut the winch down fast just push the button and kill the truck.
I hope this made sense to you. If you would like to talk about this some more feel free to give me a call.

[Todd M]

I finally got my two issues resolved.

Sanded the high spots off the gear until the drum shaft rotated freely with the end cap tightly installed. And yes you get good at taking it apart and putting it back together as maineSS states in the link above.

Finally this afternoon I got the sliding clutch to move by hand somewhat easily; not sure if it slides as it should be but I will see how it is back together once my clutch fork gets here.

Would love over to see this back on the truck.

[Todd M]

What is the proper way to use the winch, using the clutch pedal from in the cab or leaving the lever in the cab engaged and working the winch from the lever above ?

I can not say myself how to operate but I found this thread that may help you with some of your questions.

https://powerwagonadvertiser.com/for...mu-2-operation