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1948 power wagon project
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What is the proper way to use the winch, using the clutch pedal from in the cab or leaving the lever in the cab engaged and working the winch from the lever above ?
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Originally posted by Todd M View PostWell I have two issues with the winch repair or at least two that I know of right now. The first is when I retighten the gear cap I lose majority of my ability to rotate the drum shaft. Reading the above link I have a couple of item that could resolve that issue.
The second is is how easily should the sliding clutch move on the drum shaft? I am trying to do this my hand; actually with gentle taps of the hammer. I still do not have the shifting fork as I am waiting for it to arrive but I can only imagine that it will need to be easier to slide along the drum shaft.
On the second issue, my sliding clutch moves very smoothly and I did use some grease on shaft. You may need to just use some fine emery cloth on shaft or to hone out clutch. I too had to order all the shifting fork components but now all works great (I still need to add the cable). The below pic shows the clutch and shifting fork assembly.
IMAG0605.jpg
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Well I have two issues with the winch repair or at least two that I know of right now. The first is when I retighten the gear cap I lose majority of my ability to rotate the drum shaft. Reading the above link I have a couple of item that could resolve that issue.
The second is is how easily should the sliding clutch move on the drum shaft? I am trying to do this my hand; actually with gentle taps of the hammer. I still do not have the shifting fork as I am waiting for it to arrive but I can only imagine that it will need to be easier to slide along the drum shaft.
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Caught this thread late but for what its worth, mine too projects out approx 3/16" from end of bushing. I also took many pics of the rebuild if entrusted. 2014-12-07_16-30-04_944.jpg2014-12-07_16-29-39_179.jpg
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Todd, I would start soaking the old girl in penetrating oil for a while. The clutch dog looks fairly rusted in place, the above rebuild link is fantastic. Have no fear about rebuilding the winch the work you have done on the truck has been fantastic. You will do just fine on the winch.
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This should be the link to the rebuild thread. It gave me the courage to do my MU2, and I was also way outside my skill set. Turned out great. https://powerwagonadvertiser.com/for...repair-rebuild
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The winch is actually quite simple inside, just two major parts and a few bearings and bushings. Trickiest part of rebuilding them is setting the bearing pre-load in the input [worm] gear shaft which is done by stacking gaskets on the ends of the housing. Not hard, just tedious. The rebuild thread here a few years ago was good, especially the information on the right lubricants to use in them.
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BD843261-04E0-455D-9DC2-A132DD87032B.jpegA915149C-2F65-49B3-A628-2BAEB0C5F9D9.jpeg929E0F18-FEF8-46D7-B49A-86AA667C7E70.jpeg Thank you guys. I figured sometwas wrong with the fitment.
Matthew I have not torn down the winch as of yet. Still working up the courage to open up something that I worry may be over my skill set. Heck this whole project was outside of my skill set so what am I saying. I remember seeing a post on the rebuild of the winch but like always I am having trouble locating it again. I hope it does not stay hidden from me as I would like to work on it this weekend. Otherwise I will have to revert to the windshield assembly another task that has been waiting patiently for some time now.
Here are are close up photos of drum shaft on the gear box side.
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It should be flush or out just a bit like the other guys have stated Todd. Did you by chance remove the shaft from the bronze gear and have something going on in the gearbox itself? Can you show us a few more pictures of the winch assembly itself? Close ups on either end by chance, the winch bumpers and brackets themselves look like you have them lined up and looking very well.
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Bumper / winch fitting
finally got back at it. Fitted the front bumper and winch minus the drum and cable that seems to weight 400# by itself.
First had to heat and pound out several character marks on the bump and tried my best to remove all the twist on the drivers side and bend on the passenger’s side. Will see how it looks all painted and may end up replacing them in the future.
What I could use some help on is the bushing end. Is the cable drum shaft suppose to be flush with the end? I took this winch off one of my trucks that had damaged to the point I had to get a replacement for the cable drum shaft bracket. Photos show that it was sitting inside even deeper but I can only imagine it was from the damage.
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Todd, It should tighten down pretty snug, I use a set of long needle nose pliars and it works fairly well at a 1/4 of a turn at a time. It takes a bit but should snug up just fine.
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Well after several months of applying penetrating oil to the windshield connector screws I told myself today is the day they come out or get drilled out. Well actually 3 days ago - slow to post. They had been heated and cooled to no luck a month ago so I was really thinking they would have to be drilled out but with my son pinning it to the floor with his feet and pushing me down on top of the screw driver - to keep the screw driver engaged - like my weight should have been enough. Well we got four of them to come out - 2 on each side. Talk about a happy day. For such small screws they did not want to give up without a fight.
Then it was a tug tug a war to get the halves separated.
Here is a photo of them in their drying place along with some additional pieces that were going black.
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