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  • Originally posted by Desoto61 View Post
    That's an impressive piece of work.
    Many thanks. Its been one heck of an endeavor.

    Decided I am going to do front engine mounts and then side mounts off of the Allison Housing. This is what I have so far. Using the big Anchor mounts. My fear is that they are so close to the crank centerline that its going to be a bit harsh because the engine doesn't have a lot of leverage on the mounts. Then again, being short and close, they are going to flex a little less when I romp on it as I am sure that I will. I am going to be building a new lower front cross member anyways that will be a core support for the radiator/intercooler shell, and will brace the frame again across the front That cross member will have two legs that the motor mounts will sit in.

    Thoughts?





    1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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    • Bruce in BC... What type of box are you using for your crossover steering setup? Also the hydro assist system mixed with your Hydroboost... thoughts on all of that? What Master cylinder, size of your calipers, and hydroboost unit are you using? Whats the pump type and output numbers? Sorry about all of the questions. I just want to design my system so that I can get the most performance out of it without steering drag.
      1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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      • front end

        Steering box - scout II - which is a Saginaw 3 inch bore - there is a bigger one but is hard to find - mounted to the outside of frame , frame is notched a tad

        Pump - Saginaw , delphi , made with the parts from about 6 other pumps , origin unknown - I got it from Paul and it had the Cummins gear drive . There is not much different on these pumps from vehicle to vehicle . Increases to pressure or volume may be necessary or not .

        Hydro boost - one ton Chev

        Master cylinder - one ton Chev

        I do have a problem with the proportioning valve - the one I have has two lines to feed each side of the front axle - I need a valve with one line exiting .


        Bruce

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        • Measurements?

          Slowly making progress, or at least activity. I bought a welder and I'm learning to use it by filling holes on the firewall. I figured that education would be less visible before I had to weld on the body.
          I would like to replicate the carryall round fenders, so I mocked up on kraft paper a 44" diameter fender arc on the Panel Truck. I wanted to check if 44" diameter was close to the Carryall diameter, and if anyone had the distance from the beltline to the top of the radius? My mockup has 8" but that was determined by the 44" diameter fender to the bottom of the body.
          Additionally, thanks to Bruce for the advice on separating the door skins on the barn doors. Was a bit time consuming, but it was really the only way I could have fabricated hinge mounts, and let me address any rust issues inside the door. Its made from 1/8 angle iron, the slot is cut for the hinge, and the hinge mount to a flat piece of 1/8 steel. I figure a 1/4 of steel 10" long will never be the point of failure compared to the original design.
          Attached Files

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          • Looking great

            That rear arch looks great but short of getting your hands on an original fender I would try a getting the rear fender from another source first . Finding a fender to fit your arc would be much tougher than cutting your arc to fit the fender . A place to look would be Big Rig truck places . The fenders are generally flat with an outside curve that looks close to the original WC53 fender .
            rear door - well done . You can paint the insides of the door and if you are relatively quick you might want to consider gluing the skin back on using panel adhesive . Keep in mind the skin will not come off a second time if you go this route , but it will not rust in the seam either .

            There are several causes of cracked door frames .
            (1) door pins are not aligned
            (2) door pins are not lubed properly and part way through the opening of the door both hinge halves seize and the door has to flex to allow opening .
            (3) slamming the door , either opening or closing
            (4) no door stops .
            (5) driving with the door open

            You would never allow any of these things to occur , so your door just needs a little more support than when it left the factory .




            Take care

            Bruce

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            • rear fenders

              morning all,
              I have a set of 1/2 ton carryall rear fenders that are nice, no rust.
              let me know if you need them

              Comment


              • Thanks Bruce. I was a bit reserved confessing I was going to use trailer fenders, but the price is reasonable, and they can make a matching inner fender as well. My thought was to get the outer fender slightly smaller, so the outer fender can slip into the inner fender and I can secure it similar to the Carryall rear fenders. I was mocking it up so I could order the fender combination, but wanted to make sure the relationship to the belt line looked correct. Visually the wheel well opening looked a bit "tall", but there is no weight in the truck now, and the poly suspension bushings will probably settle a bit later. The floor, glass, doors, roof isn't going to add a lot of weight, so I thought the best reference line would be the beltline.

                Scott - thanks for the info, I have the original fenders, but they are definitely not rust free, but I like the round fender line a little better, and some rust repair to remove on the body, so the original fender line is going to get blurred anyway

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                • Dodge WC53 fenders on ebay

                  rear fenders
                  starting price 340 for both
                  dealer - battlewagons
                  in Denver Colorado

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                  • Carryall rear fenders

                    Sold for 400 dollars . fenders looked quite decent , no rust through . Not sure is they were twisted or not but the fenders looked to have original paint and no repairs ....
                    not mint
                    not NOS
                    good , used , rust free take offs , in need of minor repairs

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                    • Looking for a transfer case bracket ...

                      M37 or M715 parking brake support . This is the bracket that bolts to the rear of the transfer case . It operates as a seal retainer as well as locates the parking brake pads and levers . Shipping on the whole emergency brake set up would be way high but shipping just the bracket should fit my budget . I found one picture that showed the part as 741187 . I am not sure , but I do not think it is cast , might be but the from what I have seen the bracket may be stamped .

                      Thanks

                      Bruce

                      edit - really hard to find around my little burg ...

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                      • Bruce I will search my pile tonight.....

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                        • Thanks Chris

                          That would be a great help . I have yet to get back at the Carryall . One more push on the trash truck and I need to get rid of a couple of parts trucks before even looking at the Carryall . Of course a few parts need to come off the trucks before I send them away .
                          A drive line brake on the Carryall would make me feel a lot safer than just the Eldorado callipers .

                          You ever make any progress on the swivel frame ?

                          Bruce

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                          • Not yet, the swivel is still quietly waiting, I have my M37 torn apart right now fixing rusty fenders and such....I also have a '75 gold wing project on the go right now... I am a glutton for punishment :)

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                            • Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
                              A drive line brake on the Carryall would make me feel a lot safer than just the Eldorado callipers .

                              Bruce
                              This is my plan... I am going to have a disc rotor cut for either the transmisison output or the t-case input or output so that I can lock the driveline down using a similar brake style as the original. I even have an original handle I am going to try and get through the floor. I really want to work on mine but have been WAY too busy with work. I am also out of money... personal property taxes, and some expenses with the house, I am actually selling off some of my stockpile of other misc parts and tires.

                              If I can just get the motor mounts done and the engine self supported I will be in tall cotton.
                              1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

                              Comment


                              • Take a look at the Hayes callipers

                                hayes makes a bunch of manual callipers that go from 400 lbs pressure to 10,000 lbs pressure . New ones are probably silly expensive - but if you new what aplication they where used on - fork lift or john deere tractor or what not then you would have a source for a caliper that had more pressure than what most of the after market uses .
                                Going hiking today - first time test of my old trash truck - get to look for stuff that leaks or fails ...

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