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  • Originally posted by Alxj64 View Post
    I've also confirmed recently that this forum and Pirate4x4 are pretty much the only two places on the internet that grown men don't boo-hoo and cry like a bunch of little girls about me not restoring the truck to original. I was tolerant of it for a good while but now personal attacks are occuring again and I simply don't have time for it. I'll just keep the whole project here and on Pirate and the rest of them be ****ed.


    [IMG]http://[/IMG]
    Alex, Just ask the Trolls for pictures of their perfectly restored WC53 or anything for that matter. For some of these knuckleheads, their only enjoyment in life is to p*** all over what others are doing.
    Perservere.

    Comment


    • More parts on ebay

      Tailgate $500.00
      Upper lift gate $50.00
      Lower hinges $300.00
      Window pull, $50.00

      I just welded up my lower hinges. Turns out they are cast iron, not cast steel. I doubt the welds will last. I preheated until red but I think the graphite still moved out to the weld area as I welded. I guess I could clean them up and get some casts made. The only issue I would have with that is they would not be stock - duplicates or originals would not fit the gate. Unless I built in some wiggle room on the gate, now there is a thought. Those $300.00 dollar hinges would be $400.00 by the time they got to my door.
      found the original dimensions for the seats in relation to the door and steering wheel. That should help some.
      Had quite a time finding a 4 wheel place that would answer the phone. Weird way to do business. Also found a place that only advertises on Facebook. I do not use Facebook, so they lost my business….. Had to get on Facebook to find their phone number. Go figure.

      Comment


      • Welding cast iron

        Bruce, if the welds crack, grind them out and re do them with some NI-99 nickel welding rod

        http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx

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        • Bruce, as Chris mentioned, nickel is your friend. I have a plethora of RN60 Nickel Monel blended TIG rods that I use for repairing cast steel. If you can get your hands on a TIG welder or know someone competent, I can ship you a small tube of them if you want to cover shipping costs. The rods are pricey but I have plenty from a project so they are well then paid for already. Lemme know and I can get them in the mail to ya. They are also good for welding dissimilar metals which is why I used them when TIG'ing the frame rail stiffener plates on my Carryall.
          1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

          Comment


          • Thanks Chris and Alex

            Got some nickel stick tucked away in a drawer and I swear there is some RN60 in the shop, or at a welder friends. The good news is that under better light the cracks seem to be nothing more than the edge of some scale. I brush that off and it looks quite decent. So for the time being I am going to leave it alone and when I get a chance the pro welder take a look at it.
            Thanks for the help Chris and the offer of rod Alex. Did you look the rear lift gate? It looks fixable but $400 bucks, plus the shipping. plus the hours of repair ?

            Tinkering in the shop today.
            Pineapple Express blowing in today :)

            Bruce

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            • On and Off topic

              Working on a cover for my fuel tank inlet hose, where it runs through the cab.
              For safety reasons I only weld outside. The little balls of red hot metal travel too far across the shop floor and the chances of setting something alight are too high to attempt welding in the shop. I am trying to weld between rain flurries and boy do we have flurries of rain this week. Pretty much constant. This makes welding problematic. The other issue is when it is not raining the wind starts blowing.
              Now we have talked about modified and unmodified vehicles. Here are a few vehicles that should not be modified. The fun part is most of these vehicles will never come back as stock. They will have lots of new parts made for them. The trick is these parts will look like the old ones. There is humour in this and that is what a lot of the mouthy folks do not understand.
              Check out these beauties in France. Some of them look like they are moving when standing still.
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zz-cDGnZNlY

              enjoy
              Bruce

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              • So I decided recently that I need to clear out some parts...

                I've got a decent set of extra front WC fenders I need to let go of (3/4 ton), and also another nice matching set of 3/4 ton axles complete drum to drum, 5.89s.

                A few other misc parts like radiator support frame, radiator support saddle, an extra driver's side inner fender, a couple of knee shocks that need rebuilding and maybe some other small misc parts.
                1942 WC53 Carryall in progress.

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                • Inlet cover done and on to the next squirrlie thing

                  Might have a solution on cab mounts, I will post that later.

                  The fuel inlet cover turned out somewhat decent. I am going to put some sealant around the edge and rivet or screw it in place. It has a nice flange around the edge. It needs to be removable to get at the hose clamps.

                  The bottom edge of the tailgate frame needs to be "adjusted" I have no clue how I am going to proceed on this particular task.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Bruce in BC View Post
                    Might have a solution on cab mounts, I will post that later.

                    The fuel inlet cover turned out somewhat decent. I am going to put some sealant around the edge and rivet or screw it in place. It has a nice flange around the edge. It needs to be removable to get at the hose clamps.

                    The bottom edge of the tailgate frame needs to be "adjusted" I have no clue how I am going to proceed on this particular task.
                    How about using a porta-power to push the frame down to conform with the bottom sill and welding in a vertical brace. You would of course need to apply a bit of heat to the lower portion you wish to bend.

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                    • Off topic a little bit

                      IMG_1204.jpgWorking on an old road that has not been driven on for about 35 to 40 years.
                      progress is either slow or really really slow. most is on public land. Unfortunately the beginning is on a private forest plot that is owned by a major corp. Legally a person has the right to cross the private land. in practice this does not work out very often.
                      I had a before and after picture. I bumped my camera and all the settings changed. I can not get back to the menu that permitted me to adjust the settings on the camera, and i have never figured out how to change the resolution of a photo on my computer. darn.
                      Trust me there is a road in there and it is worse than it looks.

                      Rear lift gate.
                      A porta power might work. But it is deceptive, there is a lot going on with that lower frame. The plane of the bottom needs to change , a curve added and the angle of the flanges will need tweaking as well.

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                      • Cab Mounts

                        IMG_1216.JPG

                        In this photo to the right you can see the stock uncut Dodge cab mount. The steel sleeve comes out past the base and there is a smaller rubber sleeve that would index with the frame mount. The middle piece is the steel sleeve cut to the size of the Carryall wooden block thickness of 1 9/16. The rubber on the left is 3/8 thicker to mimic the original rubber.

                        IMG_1220.JPG

                        The modified cab mount. You can see the steel sleeve end 3/8 down the hole. Not sure how well it will work but it is one method to try. A steel or aluminum block with 3/8 rubber may work just as well or better.

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                        • value of carryall, want to sell

                          Hi all, I have enjoyed reading this thread quite awhile now. I have a 43 wc53, unfortunately I'm simply unable to do the restoration I had hoped for. I want to put it up for sale, but thought I'd get some input on value, I want to price reasonably and for an enthusiast. I value all that I have read and think that you're all such great guys for sharing insight to all things Carryall.

                          What I have:

                          90% there, wood bed is gone, rust is surprisingly not too bad, door sills are gone,but have good doors. tailgate and hatch is (of course) damaged. roof has sheet metal insert with a million screws it, motor ran about 5 years ago (original, maybe but no serial #'s on it) I put oil in spark plug holes to keep it preserved, hopefully. has a heater, batt. cover running boards, front seat frame. generally straight sheet metal. I don't think I have enough posts to do pics, maybe someone could host? Clear OR title

                          Thanks for your time guys

                          sincerely Pete Olson

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                          • Bruce, I'm doing some work on my tailgate as well. I don't have any hinges though. If you have a minute, would you mind posting a few dimensions? Most important would be the hinge pin projection from the gate. Anything else you could provide would be helpful too. Thanks.

                            Comment


                            • Rear lift gate hinge

                              Are you missing the whole hinge or do you have the bottom half and not the lift gate half. The most critical might be the half the bolts to the body. It lines up the other half and the gate.
                              Attached Files

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                              • Missing the whole durn thing. I don't know the width, the length or the throw. So, anything is a help. I pretty much have the door frame done and skinned on the outside, but it would be simpler to make the hinges from existing numbers rather than reinvent everything. Are the upper gate hinges the same as the lowers? That's one of the next projects, making the upper window gate. I'll need to get a bead roller for that one.

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