The WC53 Carryall thread .

[Alxj64]

No leaks under the truck - doubt that will last long but I have put about 200 miles on it without any sign that there is any thing escaping from the case.
Thinking about how to go about getting cooler air into the truck and a better air filter, got a K&N in it at present but am not all that excited about how well it filters air.
Most immediate concern is to deal with the fan shroud and trace the wiring and sensor - the fan turns on manually but not on its own. unless my gauge is off?

take care out there

Bruce

Good deal on the leak stop. What do you mean not pleased with how the K&N filters air? Granted you do drive in the dirt and dust a good bit. My daily driven Cummins has had a K&N on it for 170k miles now and the intake is fine.

What kinda of fan controller are you using? And gauge? Does the gauge have a calibration point or is there a kink in your sender wire messing up the resistance?

I've been doing nothing but running wires in mine. Every connection is either a sealed pin connector or a soldered joint with the glue filled heat shrink tubing; I'm not taking any chances on this thing giving me problems due to a corroded or poorly terminated connection. I am running multiple grounds throughout as well and not really relying on chassis grounding but rather to my grounding termination points with redundancy.

[Bruce in BC]

NP205 update

No leaks under the truck - doubt that will last long but I have put about 200 miles on it without any sign that there is any thing escaping from the case.
Thinking about how to go about getting cooler air into the truck and a better air filter, got a K&N in it at present but am not all that excited about how well it filters air.
Most immediate concern is to deal with the fan shroud and trace the wiring and sensor - the fan turns on manually but not on its own. unless my gauge is off?

take care out there

Bruce

[Bruce in BC]

Found the leak

It is the NP205 transfer case, the one with the site tube. The leak is at the front of the transfer case where the idler shaft comes out. I attempted to tighten the nut but it seems to be very tight as it sits. I machined off the lip of a steel dust cap to where it flairs out. The dust cap now fits perfectly over top of the washer and nut. I will clean off both surfaces and add some sealant and see if it will stop the leak. Draining the transfer case and pulling and resealing the nut will happen at a later date - too messy at this time, the oil will drain out of the case and then run across the skid plate.

Trip heading north and into the interior - Fraser canyon, Barrier if the smoke is ok, otherwise Vancouver Island. Might head up to Jasper in September.

Brakes - I think that was on a different thread.


Bruce

[jim lee]

Where do you plan on heading for your camping trip?

And, what happened to the post about the brake petals?

-jim lee

[Bruce in BC]

tweaked my pump

there is a screw on top of the pump called a "smoke screw " it controls fueling for the turbo. Instead of screwing it in which makes more smoke I backed it off half a turn. There was less smoke and the Turbo still hits 20 psi so I repeated the process until I noticed the boost drop a bit and the power seemed to drop as well.
next step is to crank it in 1/2 a turn and then "adjust" the star wheel, again instead of going down which increases the fueling at low RPM I will turn it up a shade and see what happens.. I am very happy with the new turbo and am contemplating compounds.
i pulled the front drive shaft yesterday, to get at the bolts I needed to cut an access hole in the skid plate - the bolts can only be turned one face at a time - pulling the shaft took quite awhile. I am trying to trace down a weep in one of the transfer cases. pulling the shaft made looking for the weep much easier, next step is to clean the area and take the truck for a spin.
Getting the truck ready for a trip and some camping - of course some work fell in my lap, and several old jobs that where delayed arrived in the same few days - they need to wait. I find putting off work like this to be a nuisance.
I can hear one of the front u joints on the drive shaft making a noise - I will replace them this fall when I pull the truck off the road.

take care
Bruce

[Alxj64]

Lee,

Not totally sure on the comment about the double layers... I can take some pictures of my tray to show how that is setup. Mine doesn't have the slider or the correct fender bracket; and actually won't when I am done with it, but will have some sort of spring loaded cam latch or something. I am certainly going to have "NO STEP" painted on top of the box lid though. In discussion with a Carryall friend, who owned one from the '60s on up through current, he said that was the most common damage to his. People would sling surfboards on the roof, and then stand on the battery box door to retrieve them. I am planning a little folding aluminum step to hang on the rear tires of mine.

[jim lee]

THANK YOU!!

I've been looking at mine. It has the hold down threaded bracket on the rear fender just like the picture you have there. And it has the odd little slidey bracket attached to it, just like your picture here. What is the slidey bracket for? Possibly holding down the original batteries?

Is the hinge something I could get from McMaster Carr?

Also it looks kinda like there is two shelf plates. An inner/lower one and an upper outer one that the hinges attach to. Is this true or am I seeing something that's not there?

My plan is to fix up mine cose to stock, then put the battery in a marine battery box. The cover will hide everything.

Thanks again for the picture!

-jim lee

[Alxj64]

That is interesting! My truck is quite a few serial numbers off from that one, over 41,000 vehicles actually. Not really sure what could cause the boxes to end up angled like that. By brackets are all in place of where they are drilled to be mounted. I don't want to slot them for fear of them slipping loose. Building the new cover shouldn't be much of a problem, and as I said, I want to close up that gap some and make the inside flange sneak in a little deeper. Bruce, I DO like the idea of having it lock from the inside. Good call bud!

Lee,
You were asking about an original battery tray? Here is a start! Not sure what this brace is about. I can get you pictures of the underside of mine in case you need to see how the braces are built.

On mine, I decided to use the military style terminals so I can just attach rings as I need them... I know I'll forget something or need to add something later. I am also going to setup a couple common grounding blocks on the truck vs trying to use the frame as the conductor. The frame will be grounded, but I loathe having sheetmetal screws with rings or forks held down. Makes me shudder thinking about something like that on a truck like mine.

[Bruce in BC]

Battery box picture/ link.

Not sure if this will work but I found the fit interesting because it seems to be out of alignment much in the way that Alex's box is. http://vintagemilitaryvehicles.com/f...-carousel-8977
nice truck - interesting where the cracks have formed above the rear lift gate at the corners and the skin has popped right off on the drivers side.

[Bruce in BC]

Battery box part deuc

I wonder what a box would look like if it had the same diamond pattern as the running boards, at least on the top. On the sides the pattern would be a bit much. The locking concept is intriguing, the key could even end up on the inside of the vehicle. On my box the upper flange - the one that fits under the body skin, is actually a piece of 1/4 by 1/2 tube. Also there is a support or tab that come off the fender, a bolt goes through the top to lock or fix the battery cover in place, the bracket is quite stout. It is possible to stand on the cover and not bend it.

I have to pull a few wires too. Pull them out and move them. Also need to mess with the motor a bit more, too much smoke for my taste, under any kind of load.
One thing I want to add is a sight tube on one of the transfer cases, there is one on the NP205 and it makes checking the level a simple matter. When I add the sight tube I will also change the speedo adapter to one with a closer ratio.
Lots of things need to come out to access the transfer cases. Seats, emergency brake, both floors, trans cover and the case covers. Lots of fun with that one.

Looking forward to seeing what you create for a cover.

take care
Bruce

[Alxj64]

Shim the stock battery tray? Put some washers under that puppy and see what happens, you can put more under one end or the other. I forget if the tray is bolted tack welded or riveted to the two braces. I am sure you can fix the problem. Raise the box a bit and it should fit the fender and top opening.

Now I want to know if this idea will work or not. What works on paper does
not always work in real life.

Box is riveted to the braces so not much way to shim it without drilling out the rivets and then it loses contact and creates eccentricity on the hardware.

edit: love that battery holder that you have made, has "Alex Designs" written all over it.

Thanks! yea, I guess I am starting to have a "style" to my fabrication.

So after giving it some thought the first step would be is to find out if the box will fit the body opening without attaching it to the tray. If the box fits the opening you then play with the tray. Either turn the frame attachment holes on the out riggers into slots or come up with a method to adjust them or the tray to suit your needs.

That's the other thing, the box doesn't fit the opening without trimming it because the fender and inner fender shell are so far forward now. And as mentioned, creating an option that allows for locking the box will be easier to incorporate into the new box lid and I might make the box a little taller over all as well so as to create a little more airspace, minimize the open gap at the top, and also get some bracing inside that will keep it from being so wobbly.

All I did this weekend was pull wires and plan out the heavy connections for the starter, grid heater relays, and primary feeds for my CAN cells.

[Bruce in BC]

have you tried this?

Shim the stock battery tray? Put some washers under that puppy and see what happens, you can put more under one end or the other. I forget if the tray is bolted tack welded or riveted to the two braces. I am sure you can fix the problem. Raise the box a bit and it should fit the fender and top opening.

Now I want to know if this idea will work or not. What works on paper does not always work in real life.

edit: love that battery holder that you have made, has "Alex Designs" written all over it.

So after giving it some thought the first step would be is to find out if the box will fit the body opening without attaching it to the tray. If the box fits the opening you then play with the tray. Either turn the frame attachment holes on the out riggers into slots or come up with a method to adjust them or the tray to suit your needs.

[Alxj64]

So it looks like I may be selling my stock battery box door. Because my truck was rear-ended, the diver's side body is still not quite right. Something is out of square still and I think my truck is still about an 1" too short. This being the case, it is pushing the passenger rear fender into where the box closes and in order to get everything to line up, my hinges have to be mounted out of plane. You can see this in the photos where the paint is scratched off of the fender and how the hinge rises across the battery tray when the box opening is square with the body. I also wanted to make my battery box lockable because of the air compressor in it so instead of modifying this stock one, I figure I can build something almost identical but slightly different to fit my needs. This one is stout, and built out of 12 gauge! I was planning on building mine from 16 ga and just adding some different internal trim stiffeners.

Also, that is a "close" replacement hinge. It is stainless because the ones that are steel on my work trucks always rust after the first few openings. We had a beautiful new 2016 Ram 5500 4 door, 4 wheel drive bucket truck at my last job and the second week of having it, there were rust streaks down the side body from where the mild steel hinges were rusting already.

I'm going to attach pictures instead of hot-linking so that my Photobucket account can eventually be closed and this stuff won't be lost.

[jim lee]

Its because I finally bought one. Just like the stock market. If I sell, the price skyrockets. If I buy, the market floods.

-jim lee

[Bruce in BC]

It is raining Carryalls

In the last 10 days I have seen seven carryalls come up for sale. I wonder why so many pop up at the same time. There is one in Spokane that looks interesting , has a huge winch on the front, but there are a couple of spots where the paint has peeled off that look very rusty, with only two pictures it is hard to tell if it is a great deal or not. Six grand and it appears to be very complete.

Was at a training session today - I see a dog swimming out into the inlet, I loose sight of the dog - a local is standing there and says "oh there goes Lou, he loves the water, we see him in the middle of the straight quite often, he will stay out there for 6 hours" The dog came back today after 4 hrs of swimming and he was moving faster than I could swim. I did not know dogs could swim that long or float that well, was quite the thing to see.